hcorea;1519502 said:
Well i got some advice from a mechanic friend of mine and he also suggested a blown headgasket, although he said it was drivable, the only problem would be warped heads from overheating.
And I asked him about a rod going through the block as well btw and he said that's really not a possiblity...
I don't need a-holes to flame me, I need some actual advice so if you don't have anything worthwhile to say don't say it;
I drove it to and from school today and it's running fine, so idk what is going on when you guys say all this crap about "It'll only last a few minutes"...
You mechanic "friend" isn't very well informed.
To start with, many tests have shown that as little as 0.04% (400 PPM) water in lubricating oil can cut the fatigue life of bearings by as much as 48%.
Moisture is generally referred to as a chemical contaminant when suspended in lubricating oils. Its destructive effects in bearing applications can reach or exceed that of particle contamination, depending on various conditions.
Water may cling to metal surfaces or even form a thin film around solid contaminants such as silica particles. But by far the most damage is done when 'etching' occurs.
Water etching is a common type of corrosion occurring on bearing surfaces and their raceways. This corrosion is caused primarily by the generation of hydrogen sulfide and sulfuric acid from water-induced lubricant degradation. Yes, you read that right water (and anti-freeze) when mixed with oil and heated inside an engine combine to form acid. This eats away the soft surfaces of your bearings in no time.
(Ever notice that a Supra with a BHG for any length of time will have rust in the coolant? - Guess what - the coolant has become acidic by mixing with the exhaust gasses that are getting into the water jacket!)
Remember your bearings are never supposed to "touch" anything but oil. The bearings ride on a very thin layer of oil. Once there is some etching, the oil pressure drops (since the etching has provided the oil with a place to go other than where it is supposed to be) and eventually the bearing touches the rotating surface. After that it's all over.
It is not uncommon to throw a rod through the side of the block if you break a connecting rod. It's easy to do after the bearings get eaten.
Also, straightened cylinder heads are never be as good as a new and the risk of problems developing later, particularly in relation to gasket sealing, are greater. Also anyone straightening an aluminum cylinder head should have equipment for measuring hardness. If the head is down to 65 Brinell, it's garbage.
He's going to make a hell of a lot of money off of you after you completely trash an otherwise salvageable engine.
But hey, if you don't want to listen to us, and your mechanic knows everything, why are you here?
just sayin
