Ok so I'm a moron, I could really use some help though. (see pics)

[mickgarvey]

back on topic you could use the jb weld idea but I would see it working better if you just took a glob and pressed it onto the one bolt your having issues with. It will take the mold of the bolts broken surface and you just might be able to use it like a "custom sheared pos bolt" remover by pressing it on and twisting the bolt out.

 

[whitemike]

Yeah I'm sure they go back to the factory every single time to be refurbished.... :nono:

I've worked there, they don't. Depends on what the employee feels like doing, really.. Sometimes they'd check it in to the computer as damaged, sometimes as unopened and put it back on the shelf.

 

[jdub]

87supraguy - this is a really simple integrity issue (or lack thereof). It's easy to rationalize/justify your behavior to your own benefit, but think of it like this: Would you want someone to do this to you as a business owner? Integrity is doing the right thing even when no one looking or if you know you can get away with it. Telling the OP to buy/return a tool after use is not doing the right thing.

nctexan - if you have a dremel tool, get a small cut-off disc for it and cut a groove into the bolt (very carefully) as deep as you can without cutting the metal around it. Use a flat head screwdriver to work it out. And, buy a good quality torque wrench

 

[nctexan]

I will try to find a small dremel disc and let you know how it goes. The JB weld didn't stand a chance as far as using it to weld a bolt head to the sheared surface. After 24 hrs. cure time it came off with very minimal torque. Can you recommend a good torque wrench or should I just turn of the nut or some other method? Just got my new ARP set in so I need to get that damn sheared bolt out.

 

[nick88]

Weld a nut on it. Plug weld it in the middle of it, or just take it to a machine shop.

 

[Nghty89]

nctexan - if you have a dremel tool, get a small cut-off disc for it and cut a groove into the bolt (very carefully) as deep as you can without cutting the metal around it. Use a flat head screwdriver to work it out. And, buy a good quality torque wrench

Listen to the masters of the Supra. They will teach you much!



In other words, this is the best idea so far besides the using the chisel method.

 

[IJ.]

He has to address the Red Loctite issue before anything will work, it's possible that "Debonder" used to disolve SuperGlue will work (that's all loctite is) failing that Heat is the only thing to break the bond.

Surprised that a drill won't touch it, in the past for hardened still I've used masonary drills as they're cemented carbide tipped, worst case scenario is pulling the engine/crank and taking it somewhere with a Sinker EDM and have it erroded.

 

[Poodles]

He has to address the Red Loctite issue before anything will work, it's possible that "Debonder" used to disolve SuperGlue will work (that's all loctite is) failing that Heat is the only thing to break the bond.

Surprised that a drill won't touch it, in the past for hardened still I've used masonary drills as they're cemented carbide tipped, worst case scenario is pulling the engine/crank and taking it somewhere with a Sinker EDM and have it erroded.

Beat me to it, acetone is what you need to eat superglue (which as mentioned is the active agent in threadlocker). And the ARP stuff can't be as hard as tool steel as it wouldn't stretch as a fastener should. A quality sharp drill bit will work (if it will drill out a broken tap it will drill into a fastener).