ok, I'm goin in...

sluggo42

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The oil sender is the goal, I have a replacement in hand.

A while back when I went in there to change the 90* hose another member suggested I fix something in there that leaks oil a bit, but I don't recall what it was, anyways, if anyone has any suggestions of things to do while I tear everything apart to get to the sender, please post up your suggestions. This time I will heed all suggestions and take my time while in there.
There is some coolant leaking out from what looks like the bottom of the water pump, so I suppose I'll change that out too while in there.. I always thought the water pump would leak out of the little weep hole. Anyways, everything in the area is very oily and dirty, so I'll try to figure out what is leaking and making such a mess out of everything.

Stay tuned for a lot of newbi questions...

I'll take and post a lot of pictures as I go too.

Doug
 

sluggo42

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KMinAF;1557278 said:
Oil filter lol!
lol, I'm assuming the hed job included a new filter, but with those guys, I dunno...

---------- Post added at 03:16 PM ---------- Previous post was at 03:14 PM ----------

GrimJack;1557265 said:
CPS seal...

AhA!
Now this I think is what someone mentioned before. Is that something I can get quickly from dealer or from someone in here?
I'll start doing some searches on the CPS seal replacement job... Could you rate that from a 1 to a 10 on difficulty rating? Do I need any special tools?

Great suggestion, thanks!

Doug
 

shaeff

Kurt is FTMFW x2!!!!
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Dealer has it as well. It's inexpensive. If you pull the cover off the CPS and note the position of the rotor inside so you can pop it back in the same way (helical cut gear means the rotor will spin as you remove/install the CPS), it's very easy. One bolt (12mm IIRC) and it pops right out. Pull off old O-ring, lube new one, pop it on, put the CPS back in.

If you're unsure of the process, set the motor at 0*TDC and then re-time it when you're done. Look in the articles section for the timing writeup.
 

sluggo42

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shaeff;1557385 said:
Dealer has it as well. It's inexpensive. If you pull the cover off the CPS and note the position of the rotor inside so you can pop it back in the same way (helical cut gear means the rotor will spin as you remove/install the CPS), it's very easy. One bolt (12mm IIRC) and it pops right out. Pull off old O-ring, lube new one, pop it on, put the CPS back in.

If you're unsure of the process, set the motor at 0*TDC and then re-time it when you're done. Look in the articles section for the timing writeup.

Niiiice... Thanks Shaeff! I am deeply appreciating all the insight you guys bring to my table. Every time I can do something that the fmech doesn't have to, I am ahead in two ways at least.

Again, thanks!
Doug

---------- Post added at 06:44 PM ---------- Previous post was at 06:43 PM ----------

Now I only need to find out where the CPS is... tee-heee