ok can i get a good tune on maft by myself???

[jdmfreak]

ok here is what i did
analog out 1 wire from lambda to ox on tccs
to keep the ht wire happy i plugged in the stock o2 sensor and cut the signal wire at the sensor (sensor is not in exhaust)
reset maft pro and set parameters according to the "quick setup for mk-III" guide that came with it

could i get one of you guys to look over the logs i took sitting in my driveway to see if its working like it should???
View attachment in driveway new 02.adl

 

[gottadiesel]

You'll be in good hands with Charles!

Aaww Shucks :icon_redf

appreciate the vote of confidence :icon_bigg

ok here is what i did
analog out 1 wire from lambda to ox on tccs
to keep the ht wire happy i plugged in the stock o2 sensor and cut the signal wire at the sensor (sensor is not in exhaust)
reset maft pro and set parameters according to the "quick setup for mk-III" guide that came with it

could i get one of you guys to look over the logs i took sitting in my driveway to see if its working like it should???
View attachment 49993

The log is pretty short, but it appears to be reacting with the Vf output, so the real question is - 1 - what are your AFRs idling at Op Temp? 2 - What are your AFRs cruising?

In regards to the heater circuit, should be able to put a resistor in of the same value of resistance as the heater circuit... you would need to do some homework on the wattage capacity before doing so, so that you do not end up with a really hot resistor hanging out on your harness somewhere... IIRC TRSM states about 3 ohms for the heater circuit... but the newer OEM ones seem to read 6-7 ohms...

But what you have done, will get it through for now... Are you throwing any other codes? How did your pump install go? or are you still in process? Make sure you re-adjust your AFPR with the new pump...

 

[jdmfreak]

The log is pretty short, but it appears to be reacting with the Vf output, so the real question is - 1 - what are your AFRs idling at Op Temp? 2 - What are your AFRs cruising?

In regards to the heater circuit, should be able to put a resistor in of the same value of resistance as the heater circuit... you would need to do some homework on the wattage capacity before doing so, so that you do not end up with a really hot resistor hanging out on your harness somewhere... IIRC TRSM states about 3 ohms for the heater circuit... but the newer OEM ones seem to read 6-7 ohms...

But what you have done, will get it through for now... Are you throwing any other codes? How did your pump install go? or are you still in process? Make sure you re-adjust your AFPR with the new pump...

i haven't driven it yet here is a better log tho... start at session 4 (1,2, and 3 were from before)
View attachment across flats.adl

i took my tank almost all the way off and remembered i didnt have any shrink tube to put over the wire where i would have to solder it in the tank..... so tank is back on now with no walbro lol

 

[jdmfreak]

just checked and i am not throwing any codes

 

[gottadiesel]

Yeah the long indicates that the ECU is reading the signal from your LC-1 and it appears to be a pretty stable idle, in regards to both AFRs and your Vf... With the 440's you can still get some more out of it with your stock pump if it is in food performance shape... If you can still get the Walbro installed before Wed, probably still a good idea to simply know that you will have plenty of fuel source, if you are not for sure how old your existing stock one is... just my opinion. But your injectors will be your limiting factor at this point, in regards to boost levels you will be able to achieve without getting too lean or hitting fuel cut...

Text me tomorrow evening or Monday so we can firm up schedule...

 

[jdmfreak]

Will do thanks again

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[jdmfreak]

went on a test drive today the o2 sim works like it should lost power steering belt for like 20th time :/ goin right back out to put another one on

i didnt get any logs and i kept it out of boost but i got to thinking ...

now that i have o2 sensor hooked up to tccs i run in closed loop exept during warmup and at wot. correct???
and the stock computer tries to keep afr at 14.7
so wont i be wayyyy to lean during part throttle boost??? and if i set up ptt or mid user tune the tccs will fight me ???


i am not trying to dispute you guys or argue against using the tccs fuel management i trust you guys I am just curious

 

[gottadiesel]

went on a test drive today the o2 sim works like it should lost power steering belt for like 20th time :/ goin right back out to put another one on

i didnt get any logs and i kept it out of boost but i got to thinking ...

now that i have o2 sensor hooked up to tccs i run in closed loop exept during warmup and at wot. correct???
and the stock computer tries to keep afr at 14.7
so wont i be wayyyy to lean during part throttle boost??? and if i set up ptt or mid user tune the tccs will fight me ???

Yes and no... how is that for an answer... the TCCS actually will go into open loop before WOT, as far as I am aware it is an algorithm with several factors that the ECU decides to go into open loop, for example, if I hold 6psi of boost at 70% throttle lets say for more than 2 or 3 seconds, it goes to open loop. The time to be careful is pulling a long hill and running that 3-5psi of boost while it is still at 14.7, this is why I also run an EGT gauge so that I can watch and make sure it is not getting too hot... Is your EGR system still intact?

Do not use PTT, we will use the VE table for fine tuning, as opposed to the low/mid/high tune settings on the unit...

---------- Post added at 04:07 PM ---------- Previous post was at 04:04 PM ----------

What is up with the PS belt? Do you have the rear bracket that goes to the block for stability support?

 

[jdmfreak]

ok sweet thanks that makes sense and i haven't touched any settings other than the initial setup i am waiting until i get your help

---------- Post added at 04:29 PM ---------- Previous post was at 04:15 PM ----------

Is your EGR system still intact?


[/COLOR]What is up with the PS belt? Do you have the rear bracket that goes to the block for stability support?

no egr my old engine had it removed and my new engine didnt come with it

and as far as my ps belt goes i cant figgure it out (could be that bracket because i dont know what your talking about lol)
but my belt separates then breaks
it goes from ^^^^^ to ^^ ^^^ to ^ ^^ then at that point its done for and i replace it my original engine had a few after-market pulleys that had different offsets and i threw the ps belt often but this engine has stock pulleys and shreds the belts:/

 

[CyFi6]

The MAFT has a great feature called ETPS (Enhanced TPS) that allows you to set parameters to drive the stock ECU into open loop during part throttle boost. You have to do some rewiring but it is very simple and totally worthwhile. Basically you feed the MAFT the TPS signal from the TPS itself, then the MAFT sends an output to the stock ECU. During normal driving, the MAFT output mimics the TPS signal exactly. When the RPM and MAP values you set are met, the MAFT will feed the stock ECU a voltage that you designate to its TPS input. The voltage you set for the output should be whatever TPS voltage you see at WOT, mine was around 3.5v.

So in short, when the MAP and RPM values are met, your stock ECU sees WOT (even though you are not WOT) and it drives it into open loop richening the mixture.

 

[jdmfreak]

What do you think diesel??? Would that be a good thing to wire up??

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[jdmfreak]

wiring that up uses the wire that goes from the maft pro to the ecu airtemp wire

 

[jdmfreak]

tuner pro 413 genaric has crashed my computer twice now so i was gonna upgrade 414 doesnt work at all so i was gonna go to v5

installed great started up with no error messages(someting that both 413 and 414 do) connects no problem but i dont think my adx file is correct because the moniters dont work:/ what version are you guys using... should i go back to 413???

 

[gottadiesel]

What do you think diesel??? Would that be a good thing to wire up??

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This is on the horizon, the issue that we were trying to brainstorm (we being a couple of maftpro owners) on is the ECU throwing a code for the TPS, I am not sure if anyone knows for 100% if the ECU alters any of its algorithms when it has a code for any type of self-protection... I simply do not like have a code thrown... so have not done this so far... Bob from FTT and CajunKenny along with a couple of others had started some conversations on how to get around that, but it simply comes down to the fact that the ECU starts up faster than the MaftPro...

Off the top of my head and can't answer to the wiring question, as I never got that far into hooking it up with the previous knowledge listed above. Again these are just my opinions, someone else like CyFi6 who has connected that feature may love it and it may work great for him... so I am not saying it is right or wrong, it certainly would alleviate some issues like the long hill pulls I spoke about before, but I was just not ready to make the alteration...

We can start without it and see how your particular setup works, as every combination is going to react a little different, then can always add it if we are finding too many lean spots on PT boosting...

This my opinion anyway

---------- Post added at 10:47 AM ---------- Previous post was at 10:42 AM ----------

tuner pro 413 genaric has crashed my computer twice now so i was gonna upgrade 414 doesnt work at all so i was gonna go to v5

installed great started up with no error messages(someting that both 413 and 414 do) connects no problem but i dont think my adx file is correct because the moniters dont work:/ what version are you guys using... should i go back to 413???

You have to purchase the RT version for the monitors to work (RT=Real Time) it is only $25 or something, I thought very much worth it... though when you come up we can just use mine, so not sure if you need to be in a big hurry to get it... I am at 4.14 has always worked great for me... though I have left my laptop as an XP Pro machine for other apps that I use for my business, all others are on Win7Ult, but not sure if it is compatible or not... just a thought, if you are running W7, try to run it in compatibility mode as WinXPSP2...

 

[jdmfreak]

Ok sounds good I was reading the threads you were talking about and thought that's what you were gonna say just thought I would ask

And as far as tuner pro goes I got 413 running in compatibility mode but 414 wasnt working at all

If we can use your comp for tuning that would be awesome I will wait to buy the program for now

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[jdmfreak]

Heyy finally got the walbro installed kinda sad tho I am done installing my collection of parts now I am gonna have to start tapping into the supra account again:/


What should I set my fuel pressure on my afpr to???

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[gottadiesel]

Just leave it on the 30psi that you said it was at for now, as long as your AFRs look good, we will fine tune the pressure once you are up here...

(I know we discussed on txt lol, but for the benefit of anyone else reading the thread thought I would post anyway)

 

[jdmfreak]

Got a good base tune today thanks again

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[jdmfreak]

Hey gottadiesel what do you think of this vacuum setup??

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[gottadiesel]

Hey gottadiesel what do you think of this vacuum setup??

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To others reading - I am not agreeing or disagreeing with the entire idea of the vacuum system layout, as we already discussed while he was at my place, the concerns I had with several systems that were removed prior to him buying the car/motor...

So with that said - I would to be certain of equal measurements put the AFPR on the straight through and place the MAP and the gauge on the two Ts

Again for others reading - the issue I was seeing was a drastic delta between the mechanical boost gauge and the MaftPro boost readings... The gauge was reading 13-14 psi and the MaftPro was reading 10 to 10.5... But the MAP sensor went through several connections of old vacuum lines, couplers, Ts and off of the heater core valve etc... so I suggested moving the MAP sensor to a closer position to the Plenum, along with trying to have a more equal distance between the gauge and the MAP...

Not sure if anyone else has seen this, admittedly Shawn knows that it is a cheaper gauge, but it is new, so not being sure which one to believe, I of course believed the higher of the two and suggested to not go over 13-14psi without being on a dyno...