has anyone been able to remove their oilpan(2nd piece) off with the engine mounted onto the car? and if so will any of the permatex rtv work to reseal it? btw it's for a 1jz in a mk3. thanks..
oilpan question..
- Thread starter slidingsidewayz
- Start date
Don't believe there is a way of doing it due to the oil pick up being in the way. Probably looking at undoing your motor mounts as well as the tranny mount and liftin her up a bit. ps do unhook the mid section of the driveshaft to the output on the transmission.
do i really need to lift the motor a bit just to remove the bottom piece of the oil pan? DAMMIT!! all because i dropped one of my keepers now i need to do more work..
If the pickup's in the way, you just take it off! You need to take it off anyways to get the upper pan off.chuckmuska2005;1093003 said:
YES, you can take the full oil pan out with the motor in the car. NO, it's not as hard as it sounds. What you need to do is un-bolt the motor mounts, and pul the motor up as high as you can (when teh hellhousing is pressed up against the tunnel). There's enough play in the driveshaft so you don't need to disconnect it. This will give you JUST enough room to slide the upper pan between the crosmember, and bellhousing. It only takes 30 minutes or so to do it.
annoyingrob;1093476 said:
mann... i'm just dreading to do this job. so now i need to remove the shifter, tranny mounts and motor mounts? or do i just leave the tranny mounts and shifter in place while i lift the engine?
slidingsidewayz;1093773 said:
I was wondering the same thing as I have a nasty oil leak from my lower pan as well... :cry:
so i was wrenching yesterday, i lifted my engine and removed all of the oilpan bolts.. but now i can't seperate the bottom oilpan from the top part of the pan.. the glue is on there pretty well and after spending about 1hr 1/2, i got pretty frustrated.. any special tips you guys and what or how to do this?
here's the update, last night when i was reinstalling the pan, i snapped the last bolt i was tightening. i couldn't believe it, and now i'm really irritated about everything and that i just wanted to know it there's going to be a very bad oil leak since there's one oil pan bolt missing? i put alot of the toyota's fipg on btw.
fred
fred
3bond 1207b is superior to Toyota FIPG, you don't need much as it just ozzes into the inside of the crankcase and if it comes free can cause pickup problems.
If you overtighten the bolts you'll just squeeze the RTV out as the pan deforms and it'll leak.
If you overtighten the bolts you'll just squeeze the RTV out as the pan deforms and it'll leak.
i'll take a pic of it tonite when i get home.. so should i just remove the pan again and reapply the fipg sealant and not tighten them as much?
but i think it should be fine since i really cleaned all the grease and plus it going to the a couple of days until i'll poor oil into the engine, so it'll be completely cured/dry till then..
but i think it should be fine since i really cleaned all the grease and plus it going to the a couple of days until i'll poor oil into the engine, so it'll be completely cured/dry till then..
slidingsidewayz;1104854 said:
Sorry, about possibly hijacking yuur thread, but would the same technique apply from the 1J to a 7M?
I do have a nasty oil leak coming from the oil pan gasket myself. AND my Supra was sitting for a couple of months until i had all the parts for the auto-5speed swap, then i finished the swap and i had this damn oil pan that i trace to the oil pan gasket:cry: