Oil System chacteristics after Jdub's Oil System Upgrade

[CajunKenny]

I am posting my findings and hoping that other people will post their findings for comparison.

CONDITION - PRESSURE
Cold Start Idle - 27-28
2k RPM Cold - 38
2k Op Temp - 28
Op Temp Idle - 1.5-2

Oil = 10/30 Dino
Oil level on dipsstick = Right at 'Full' mark
All readings were taken off of Factory Gauge

Oil System Details:
-8 Fittings and -8 Aeroquip Push-Lok Hose
Permacool Thermostat w/1/2" NPT
Permacool Oil Flange w/1/2" NPT

Engine Details:
Fresh bottom end
Rebuilt Head w/~6k on it
Stock bore/pistons/rings

My concern of course is whether I'm getting adequate pressure/flow. Should I run a quart over the 'Full' mark?

Additionally, I have GC 0/30 on the shelf. How will that affect my pressures?

And before anyone posts the question...Yes, I read the TSRM's pressure specs.

 

[Poodles]

Always run a quart over, and the GC tend to be a bit thicker at op temps.

 

[IBoughtASupra]

Running a quart over would bee good to do but do it the right way. Fill up your car with six quarts, five is for stock. Crank with EFI fuse pulled, check to make sure you get oil pressure. Then recheck the oil level and refill back to full level if needed. It depends on how big of an oil cooler you have and hoses you use as well.

 

[jdub]

Kenny - is your oil pump relief valve shimmed? Getting precise readings from the stock gauge is problematic - check at the stock gauge sensor location with a mechanical gauge.
Check and make sure all hoses are routed correctly - I assume you are using a NA stud with the PermaCool adapter?

 

[CajunKenny]

My oil pump is not shimmed. I didn't remember that I wanted to do that until too late in my build.

Tomorrow I am going to pick up a Mechanical Pressure Gauge and an Oil Temp Gauge. I had planned on plumbing them in to the location that is by the engine mount. Is that location ok? If I can even fit an elbow and 'T' there anyway...

Yes, on the N/A stud.

 

[jdub]

Did you replace the oil squirter bolts?

Since it's not shimmed, your pressures are ok, but a bit low for a full flow system. Make sure the return from the cooler is plumbed to the center fitting on the block adapter (the NA stud is the feed to the cylinders). Mixing the fittings up on the block adapter is a very common mistake.

Routing should look like this:
Block adapter outside fitting ---> remote oil filter head outside fitting
Remote oil filter head outside fitting ---> oil cooler T-stat
Make sure the T-stat fittings are orientated to the proper side for cooler vs block
Oil cooler T-stat ---> block adapter center fitting

 

[CajunKenny]

I did not replace the oil squirter bolts.

I just went out and double checked it. Here's how it is:

Block adapter 'Out' > Filter adapter 'In' > Thermostat 'Hot' > Cooler
Cooler > Thermostat 'Cold' > Block Adapter 'In'

 

[jdub]

Routing looks correct. Should have replaced the squirter bolts (and shimmed the pump) - if you have a weak squirter spring (or more than one), you now have a significant pressure bleed.

Report to the stocks for 10 lashes

 

[CajunKenny]

I know...I know... I'm telling ya, I can't believe I forgot to shim the pump!

Lashes openly taken.

So, I guess the next step could be a few things...

1. I'm due for an oil change so the GC 0/30 is going in. (pressure increase?)

2. Install Mechanical Oil Pressure Gauge and see what the readings "REALLY" are.

3. Run one quart over. (pressure increase?)

 

[jdub]

The GC may help - what Poodles said about it's ops temp viscosity is dead on.
Running a quart over is just insurance against the pump pick-up ever becoming uncovered - it will have zero effect on pressure.

 

[IBoughtASupra]

Kenny, did you use a new oil pump or a used one in your build?

JDub, is it needed to shim a new oil pump? I got lucky when I bought a second Supra. The guy had taken apart the engine and forgot how to put it back together. It was sandblasted in his garage and the oil squiters were new, not just the bolts, the whole assembly.

 

[jdub]

Shimming the pump is a very good idea - even with new bolts the squirters are a pressure bleed above ~40 psi. A big plus at high RPM.

 

[CajunKenny]

I re-installed the pump I took out. All specs checked out per the TSRM.

 

[CajunKenny]

jdub: Is it time for concern if all pressures from a mechanical gauge match what I've taken today with the stocker?

 

[grimreaper]

At operating temps my stock gauge said 30 psi, the mechanical said 45psi at 3000rpms. Im sure a new sender was in order but i went with an aftermarket gauge since i was already working in that area.

 

[92nsx]

After my oiling system upgrade, with new oil pump shimmed at 7mm, I have AWESOME oil pressure. 40+ psi when cruising down the road, I would guess 50+ at 5000 or more rpm's, and idle is about 10-15 psi iirc.

 

[thedave925]

...40+ psi when cursing down the road...

This made me smile

What material is ideal to use for the shimming of the pump? some washers?

 

[jdub]

jdub: Is it time for concern if all pressures from a mechanical gauge match what I've taken today with the stocker?

Cross that bridge when you get there

This made me smile

What material is ideal to use for the shimming of the pump? some washers?

You must use washers (need the hole) or machine a spacer with a hole - washer OD should match the relief cylinder ID.

 

[CajunKenny]

Thanks everyone for the input!

Today I bought a Mechanical Oil Pressure Gauge and an Electronic Oil Temp Gauge. I also bought Copper Tubing for the pressure gauge. That plastic line is just begging to get melted!

 

[92nsx]

What material is ideal to use for the shimming of the pump? some washers?

..... machine a spacer with a hole - ....

^^^ That is what I used, out of some alum bar stock I had. I spun 3 out quick on the lathe 5mm, 7mm, and 10mm. I ended up using the 7mm one.