oil pressure

Poodles

I play with fire
Jul 22, 2006
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Fort Worth, TX
I have, but once it's warm (which I do let it warm up before driving) it back to normal

keep in mind it's over 80 at night here, so buy toyot'a spec I'm using the right weight...
 

jdub

Official SM Expert: Motor Oil, Lubricants & Fil
SM Expert
Feb 10, 2006
10,730
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Valley of the Sun
Had this discussion before...that oil chart in the manual is 15-20 years old. And it's not the spec for your temp...it's one of the options available...as is a 10W-30. The manual shows API grades SF, SF/CC, and SG...all are obsolete API grades...you cannot even buy these oils anymore. Nice try, but the logic does not hold ;)

FYI - I run a 0W-30 in Phoenix, AZ...it was 108 outside today...102 right now and it's almost 9:00 PM.
Might want to read up a bit more about how oil viscosity really works...especially cold vs hot (ops temp).
 

Poodles

I play with fire
Jul 22, 2006
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Fort Worth, TX
you also run a higher grade than I do, can't afford the best ATM as there are more pressing matters at hand (as in my cooling system not keeping up with this heat)
 

jdub

Official SM Expert: Motor Oil, Lubricants & Fil
SM Expert
Feb 10, 2006
10,730
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Valley of the Sun
A 20W-50 is not going to help you...if you run an oil this heavy, the motor/lube system needs to be built to handle it. And this only on the high HP cars.

You are actually hindering oil flow through your motor due to the high viscosity. This is having the opposite effect from what you think you are doing. If you're having heat issues, it's a much better course to fix the problem.

Even with the less expensive oils, viscosity works exactly the same as far as your bearings are concerned. Might want to read that thread again.
 

Poodles

I play with fire
Jul 22, 2006
16,757
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Fort Worth, TX
Well, my block is of unknown milage out of a donor car, oil pressure was a bit low with normal oils in the spring, so i changed it to the 20w-50 and it helped. Probably becuase she's running hot right now. I'll switch back during this time of downtime.

I used to run Royal Purple, but my engine burned it or was throwing it out the exhaust (got rod knock on royal purple, ans the level was correct when I last tanked up, was nearly empty when I checked it after it got rod knock, no visible leaks either when i pulled it apart)

I know the effect of synthetics on old seals, but how does Redline fair compared to RP? I haven't burned any oil at all since the engine swap and rebuild of my head...
 

Adrian98

Banned
Dec 19, 2006
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orange county
I drop down to 15ish psi after i idle for about a minute at 600rpm and I'm over 40psi on the highway at 3000rpm. my motor even has 166,700 miles on it =)