i added 2 quarts and its all good now.. still dosent go past the 40. but then again im pretty close to an oil change. ill prolly buy an aftermarket guage here soon just in case.
oil pressure...
- Thread starter loki2043
- Start date
LOL, 2 quarts...
I don't know how long you've had it in there but losing that much sounds scary to me since you don't know where its going, or even that it was going anywhere to begin with.
I don't know how long you've had it in there but losing that much sounds scary to me since you don't know where its going, or even that it was going anywhere to begin with.
Fuzz420
Are U Here 2 take My Baby
i gotta use 6 qts. since my jdm swap :dunno:, and i sometimes i run 1 extra so thats 7.I do believe these stock gauges are a little slow, cause my pump is fresh and it reads low sometimes after the car has been shut off, then restarted after a long drive
mkIIIman089 said:
the dipstick was close to full. so i added a quart and that made it full...then i added another as most people say to do.
for the 7m-gte it's supposed to be 4.7 quarts, and somewhere close to 5 1/2 w/ a filter change toobillspreston01 said:
hm... where would i find this... specifically the adaptor and filter... i already have a oil relocate kit from horsepowerfreaks.com, but it uses the spin on typeAdjuster said:
89jdm7m said:
My TSRM says 4.2 with filter, 3.9 without. In US quarts. This is an 87 TSRM. I see the online one is different but still not what you claim. Seems we're all close though depending on the model year and manuals. Run one more just for grins
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it said 4.7 us quarts for the 7m-gte on the link he just posted and 5.2 us quarts for filter change
haha, i just remember that from my hane's manual... that's about the only thing i've used it for so far... checking oil vis. for diff. and amount of oil for oil change
The 91-92 dipsticks are easier to read and you can order them from Toyota relatively cheap. This is what I did as my near 20 year old dipstick was very hard to read. When researching mk3's I read that 91-92 dipsticks were altered to better read so I bought one and they are! Also you could take a file and file straight line where the full mark is or maybe slightly below it so you don't overfill. This way the oil would set in the full mark where it's filed. That's what I did before I went and bought the 92 dipstick.
Adjuster
Supramania Contributor
Hi Jetjock.
Where did you get the info on the Rotella T Synthtic oil being not a pure synthtic oil? (What I've read before says it is, and was compared to MobileOne, Delvac Synthtic and some others, and it came out tops price to quality wise.) I also use it in my KTM bike with no problems, but used MobileOne before that. I've used MobileOne in my cars for many, many years, always the 15/50 stuff, all winter long, no problems. Always used Wix/Napa/Purolator filters when I was not using the Canton stuff.
I agree the canton filter appears small, but it is the nicest filter setup for full flow I've seen in a automotive application.
I looked at the TP bypass filter, and ended up going with the OilGuard as I think it is built better than most TP units, and I don't mind paying a few bucks for a replacment filter v/s the price of a roll of TP.
Here is my oil filter setup. (Oil guard where the Evap canister used to reside, and the larger Canton/Mecca one on the apron.)
As far as dry starts go... There are none on my Supra
Where did you get the info on the Rotella T Synthtic oil being not a pure synthtic oil? (What I've read before says it is, and was compared to MobileOne, Delvac Synthtic and some others, and it came out tops price to quality wise.) I also use it in my KTM bike with no problems, but used MobileOne before that. I've used MobileOne in my cars for many, many years, always the 15/50 stuff, all winter long, no problems. Always used Wix/Napa/Purolator filters when I was not using the Canton stuff.
I agree the canton filter appears small, but it is the nicest filter setup for full flow I've seen in a automotive application.
I looked at the TP bypass filter, and ended up going with the OilGuard as I think it is built better than most TP units, and I don't mind paying a few bucks for a replacment filter v/s the price of a roll of TP.
Here is my oil filter setup. (Oil guard where the Evap canister used to reside, and the larger Canton/Mecca one on the apron.)
As far as dry starts go... There are none on my Supra
Adjuster
Supramania Contributor
Very interesting reading.
http://motorcycleinfo.calsci.com/Oils1.html
Two types of Rotella T. (one is not synthtic, and it's a group III oil, but that's not the one I use.)
I dont' have a cat anymore. (And I don't care if it works really since I'm not Vegan, or worried about the whales and other critters who we are told are worried about it.)
http://motorcycleinfo.calsci.com/Oils1.html
Two types of Rotella T. (one is not synthtic, and it's a group III oil, but that's not the one I use.)
I dont' have a cat anymore. (And I don't care if it works really since I'm not Vegan, or worried about the whales and other critters who we are told are worried about it.)
JJ, the dipstick thing is real. My 90T was impossible to read except when cold and then only in bright light. It is the most complicated dipstick ever with a wire cable that is swaged to a shiny gold colored bullet. I imagine they spent serious development money coming up with this design. The color alone makes it impossible to tell what is going on with clean oil, and the "bullet" has not single flat surface to reflect when held up to the light. I replaced it with a later version and it is much better. I suspect Toyota made several dipsticks over the life of the MKIII. Yours was apparently a much better version!
jetjock said:
Hi Adjuster. Nice setup you've got there. You didn't mention you had an oil guard and accusump so the minor differences we sahre are gone. The OG is indeed a good filter. I'm just too cheap to pay for the elements. That said it's obvious you know how to care for an engine.
I'm confused about the Rotella. I was under the impression you were running Rotella 5-40. If so I'm amost positive that's a Group III hydrocracked oil ie; a highly refined dino. It's chemistry bears no resemblance to the PAO Group IV "real" synthetic Mobil One, an oil I've never used because it has a few things about it I dislike. Thats a personally preference however. Don't get me wrong though, Rotella is a great oil. I run either Group IV, V, or a blend of the two. The V is either ester or a GTL based oil such as Pennzoil Platinum. I'm currently running German Castrol Syntec 0-30 which is a true IV and V blend. The regular Castrol Syntec comes in a nearly identical bottle but is a Group III so it pays to be aware of the details.
As the site you linked to pointed out the "fake" synthetic thing comes from a court case where Castrol replaced PAO with Group III in their synthetics. Mobil sued over them continuing to use the word synthetic but Castrol won. Therefore a great many of the oils on the market today that are labeled synthetic are in reality Group III. They perform nearly as well as true syns but are cheaper to produce and sell.
It really comes down to what one considers synthetic and what's not but Rotella 5-40, as good as it is, comes out of the ground. To me and many others that doesn't qualify as a syn. Fwiw the USA is the only country that permits such oil labeling shenanigans. It's illegal in Europe for example. The Rotella 15-40 is, I believe, a Group II but is also a fine oil and is popular with bikers. Rotella has a website and a forum btw.
*edit* Oops, just saw your oil mod thread. Missed it before. Beautiful work. My apologies...I now see I'm dealing with a pro.
3P: Several guys have told me off list the dipstick thing is real but I'm still confused. I've heard the later dipsticks were gold colored and hard to read but I've also been told the later ones are better and should be used. So it appears there is a real issue somewhere in there. All I can say is the stick on my 87 is black and I've never had any problem reading it. Because my engine uses no oil I don't check the oil often though (about once a month). I also go a very long time between changes. But when I do mess check it's not difficult to read the stick at all. Go figure.
I'm confused about the Rotella. I was under the impression you were running Rotella 5-40. If so I'm amost positive that's a Group III hydrocracked oil ie; a highly refined dino. It's chemistry bears no resemblance to the PAO Group IV "real" synthetic Mobil One, an oil I've never used because it has a few things about it I dislike. Thats a personally preference however. Don't get me wrong though, Rotella is a great oil. I run either Group IV, V, or a blend of the two. The V is either ester or a GTL based oil such as Pennzoil Platinum. I'm currently running German Castrol Syntec 0-30 which is a true IV and V blend. The regular Castrol Syntec comes in a nearly identical bottle but is a Group III so it pays to be aware of the details.
As the site you linked to pointed out the "fake" synthetic thing comes from a court case where Castrol replaced PAO with Group III in their synthetics. Mobil sued over them continuing to use the word synthetic but Castrol won. Therefore a great many of the oils on the market today that are labeled synthetic are in reality Group III. They perform nearly as well as true syns but are cheaper to produce and sell.
It really comes down to what one considers synthetic and what's not but Rotella 5-40, as good as it is, comes out of the ground. To me and many others that doesn't qualify as a syn. Fwiw the USA is the only country that permits such oil labeling shenanigans. It's illegal in Europe for example. The Rotella 15-40 is, I believe, a Group II but is also a fine oil and is popular with bikers. Rotella has a website and a forum btw.
*edit* Oops, just saw your oil mod thread. Missed it before. Beautiful work. My apologies...I now see I'm dealing with a pro
. 3P: Several guys have told me off list the dipstick thing is real but I'm still confused. I've heard the later dipsticks were gold colored and hard to read but I've also been told the later ones are better and should be used. So it appears there is a real issue somewhere in there. All I can say is the stick on my 87 is black and I've never had any problem reading it. Because my engine uses no oil I don't check the oil often though (about once a month). I also go a very long time between changes. But when I do mess check it's not difficult to read the stick at all. Go figure.
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Looks like they changed the design around 1989 to the crappy one, then fixed it later for the 91-92 years. I have both designs. The newer one is silver and has a more matte like finish that makes it easier to see than the older shiny gold style.
PS How does the oil pressure sender work? Its completely passive so the pulse generation must be a mechanical thing.
PS How does the oil pressure sender work? Its completely passive so the pulse generation must be a mechanical thing.
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