WTH? I've got like 30+ psi at idle, and about 70 going down the road. If my car went to 4 psi at idle, I would shit!!!
Oil pressure just went to ZERO.
- Thread starter Turbo Targa
- Start date
As per the TSRM....
http://www.cygnusx1.net/supra/library/TSRM/lu/LU_04.html
Idle: 4.3 psi or more.
3,000rpms+: 36-71 psi
If you running 30+psi at idle then:
A) Your engine is still cold
B) You are running some seriously thick shit in there
C) You have a modified oiling system
4 psi is fine for our engines in stock form.
http://www.cygnusx1.net/supra/library/TSRM/lu/LU_04.html
Idle: 4.3 psi or more.
3,000rpms+: 36-71 psi
If you running 30+psi at idle then:
A) Your engine is still cold
B) You are running some seriously thick shit in there
C) You have a modified oiling system
4 psi is fine for our engines in stock form.
I've also used an external oil preassure gauge after a rebuild which registered good preassure, but with oil pressure switch installed and checking the in-car gauge it reads low. I see some people swear by the in-car gauge but if your in doubt, its simple to check with an external gauge.
i put a new block in my car Started it up when look over at Oil pressure it goes all the way upp then down to 0 and now does not move !!!!!
so i put a new oil pressure sending unit in and i still get 0
what would i be geting this the car has been runing for about 4weeks soo i know it has oil pressure
so i put a new oil pressure sending unit in and i still get 0
what would i be geting this the car has been runing for about 4weeks soo i know it has oil pressure
Adjuster
Supramania Contributor
If the sensor fails, your readings are wrong.
A mechanical gauge is generally pretty accurate, and does not have any sensors to fail.
Problem is you really should not be running then "inside" of your car. (Line could fail, and then your pumping hot oil into your car.... Fire or burning of occupants is a good possibility.)
I have a modified oil system, and at startup get nearly 75psi, then as the oil warms up, drops to just about 20ish. On really hot days, or when the engine is fully warmed up, it will be down about 10, but on the stock gauge, it's all just a guess I suppose. (I was hoping for 30, but that's not going to happen at hot ldle.)
I'm running 10 quarts of oil, and I use 15/50 Mobile One with a quart of Lucas Synthetic addtive in there. (Nice and thick, and sticky.)
No foaming issues.
You should be able to run 6 or 7 on a stock setup before your going to see any foaming issues. The oil in the pan is quite a bit lower than the crank/rods spinning above it. Of course when your slowing down or speeding up, or turn fast corners, the oil sloshes around and can come in contact with the rotating assemby, but only for a few moments, and that's not going to whip it up into a froth that will cause you problems. (It takes a few min of being over full to whip up enough oil "foam" to cause problems, but when that does occur, you had better turn off the motor fast or your going to lose it.)
When I first started up this engine, I had 12 quarts of oil. It was slightly too much, but even then it did not foam up or cause any other probems than being pushed out the valve cover ports and my breather vent. Also popped my dip stick out, and caused it to leak there.
New o-ring at the dip stick, and 10 quarts turns out to be perfect for my car.
I used to always run 6 quarts on my old engine. (Slightly over full on the dipstick.) Easy insurance from rod knock in my opinion.
One last thing. Ditch that 10/30 oil. Even in winter, it's too thin for the 7M engine. Especially if your engine is older.
Run 15/50 synthetic and your going to be fine. It's easy for synthetic oil to be pumped when cold, and it's going to have better film strength and viscosity when hot than your current oil. This all adds up to better pressure at the gauge, but also better lubrication at the bearings where it counts.
A mechanical gauge is generally pretty accurate, and does not have any sensors to fail.
Problem is you really should not be running then "inside" of your car. (Line could fail, and then your pumping hot oil into your car.... Fire or burning of occupants is a good possibility.)
I have a modified oil system, and at startup get nearly 75psi, then as the oil warms up, drops to just about 20ish. On really hot days, or when the engine is fully warmed up, it will be down about 10, but on the stock gauge, it's all just a guess I suppose. (I was hoping for 30, but that's not going to happen at hot ldle.)
I'm running 10 quarts of oil, and I use 15/50 Mobile One with a quart of Lucas Synthetic addtive in there. (Nice and thick, and sticky.)
No foaming issues.
You should be able to run 6 or 7 on a stock setup before your going to see any foaming issues. The oil in the pan is quite a bit lower than the crank/rods spinning above it. Of course when your slowing down or speeding up, or turn fast corners, the oil sloshes around and can come in contact with the rotating assemby, but only for a few moments, and that's not going to whip it up into a froth that will cause you problems. (It takes a few min of being over full to whip up enough oil "foam" to cause problems, but when that does occur, you had better turn off the motor fast or your going to lose it.)
When I first started up this engine, I had 12 quarts of oil. It was slightly too much, but even then it did not foam up or cause any other probems than being pushed out the valve cover ports and my breather vent. Also popped my dip stick out, and caused it to leak there.
New o-ring at the dip stick, and 10 quarts turns out to be perfect for my car.
I used to always run 6 quarts on my old engine. (Slightly over full on the dipstick.) Easy insurance from rod knock in my opinion.
One last thing. Ditch that 10/30 oil. Even in winter, it's too thin for the 7M engine. Especially if your engine is older.
Run 15/50 synthetic and your going to be fine. It's easy for synthetic oil to be pumped when cold, and it's going to have better film strength and viscosity when hot than your current oil. This all adds up to better pressure at the gauge, but also better lubrication at the bearings where it counts.
Good info guys! Thats for everyone's 2 cents. Is there another option other then the 15/50 synthetic? Sounds expensive *trembles*
There are lots of options for oil. You dont need to use Mobile synthetic.
My advice is ask a mechanic and DONT listen to the guy selling the oil at the shop. They are sales staff, they rarely know $hit about engines and often suggest an oil based on what the're pushing at the time, not your engine.
My advice is ask a mechanic and DONT listen to the guy selling the oil at the shop. They are sales staff, they rarely know $hit about engines and often suggest an oil based on what the're pushing at the time, not your engine.
You can use either regular or synthetic, Just don't mix and match the two. They don't blend well with out special additives. However the Synthetic is going to be friendlier with your engine. And when it comes to the oiling system of our cars I try not to skimp.
You should have seen my eyes when I had my first $40 oil change. But now I’m used to it.
You should have seen my eyes when I had my first $40 oil change. But now I’m used to it.
cant you unhook the wire from the sending unit and ground it to test the guage and see if it moves? if it does you know everything from the sending unit to the guage is fine...
i didnt even know mobile made a 15/50 synthetic... but your saying thats what should be run in the 7m because 10/30 mobile one synthetic is to thin? because thats what i run on my new motor and i will switch for the better
meaning that the sender has gone bad?mazzer said:
Drained the oil and added 4 quarts today, and the gauge still wont work. Maybe I killed the sender?
so about the 15/15 mobile one synthetic can we talk about that more how much better is it then 10/30 and what are the benifits
Turbo Targa said:
You only put 4 quarts in? Hmmm....
15W is gooder to use. It's what I'm going to after the breakin. I have 10W to go through the first 1,000 miles, then going to synthetic 15W.
Lucas is the shizzle. Screw all the talk about it foaming up, I've used Straight lucas on my transmission (no transmission oil, just lucas), and had a 50/50 mix and it doesn't foam.
