OIL: Pennzoil vs Amsoil NON-synthetic

[bluemax]

No.
Synthetics aren't economical if you replace your oil every 2-3k.
If you're a fanatic and want the slickest oil available at any price, then synthetics would be your choice.
I personally don't replace my oil until 5k. And going to synthetics would allow me to go to 10k. But at $5 a quart for synthetic (Mobil 1 5 Qt container at Walmart) and less than $2 a Qt (depending on the brand any where) for natural, it still doesn't pay to go to synthetics.
So I guess it depends on what the purpose of the oil choice is. If you're on a tight budget, then synthetics are out of the question. If not, then may be you could find a reason to use synthetics.

 

[siman]

I definantly understand you Bluemax.

I know the synthetics average twice or three times the length between oil changes....thats where the bang for the buck comes into play. Synthetics have higher pricing on the shelves, but you pretty much break even in the long run between dyno and synthetic.

I think I will get some synthetic and mix it in....just to see if anything starts to leak ( smoke)....that would be a clue to continue the dyno oil.

-Jonathan

 

[mk3forme]

I wouldnt recommend anyone changing their oil every 10,000 miles. I even contacted mobil 1 about this and they said that even though they had heard of people doing this that they would never recommend it. In my opinion oil still gets dirty and regardless how good the oil is it still is contaminated. This is one of the reasons for changing it. And alot in this forum recommend every 3000, im sure, due to the heat that these motors go through from the turbo and all

 

[siman]

I wouldnt recommend anyone changing their oil every 10,000 miles. I even contacted mobil 1 about this and they said that even though they had heard of people doing this that they would never recommend it. In my opinion oil still gets dirty and regardless how good the oil is it still is contaminated. This is one of the reasons for changing it. And alot in this forum recommend every 3000, im sure, due to the heat that these motors go through from the turbo and all

3-5K is optimal on synthetic....10K is just retarded....It doesnt matter if its a brand new motor.....oil BURNS OFF. LOL

I think its mostly a selling point to people...We actually marketed that at Nashville Dodge ( my old job selling cars for a month) as a benefit to buyinga new car....oil changes every 10K miles or something on the New Cummins Diesels....and the SRT-4 neons and other rides....stupid stupid stupid :yelrotflm

-Jonathan

 

[mrnickleye]

OK...10-40w oil....it has the viscosity (pouring ability at 70*) of 10w oil, and the molecular strength of 40w oil. 10-30w...same principal. 20-50w...same principal, 5-30w...etc. Straight weight oil, say 30w, cold (70*) has viscosity of 30w. But, when heated to normal operating engine temps, thins to 10w.

Additives are GREAT !!

Engine wear happens most at cold start up. 10-40w (etc) gets the oil pumped thru out the engine faster than 30w, thus less engine wear.

10-40w is as low as I would go (and that's what I run) in these 7m's. Maybe 20-50w in the summer in hot climates. If your engines burns some oil (2-3 qts between changes), then 20-50w will help slow down the loss. It is 2x the viscosity of 10-40w. so it seals the gaps a bit better.

Also...I put Amsoil ATF (Dextron III replacement) into my Power steering, and the rack BLEW the seal on driver's side 1 month later. And a few others told me of their leaks popping up in engine and trans. I think there is something to this "cleans away the build up around old seals" thing.

(Rack was not cheap, either). I only use dex III now, and I won't use synthetic in my trans or engine for these fears.

 

[siman]

Also...I put Amsoil ATF (Dextron III replacement) into my Power steering, and the rack BLEW the seal on driver's side 1 month later. And a few others told me of their leaks popping up in engine and trans. I think there is something to this "cleans away the build up around old seals" thing.

(Rack was not cheap, either). I only use dex III now, and I won't use synthetic in my trans or engine for these fears.

I wouldnt doubt it. Though I am speaking from a brand spanking new rebuild with all brand new seals.....so I doubt I would have that type of catostrophic event...LOL....but my TURBO seal(s) are what bother me.

I dont have the money or time to replace a turbo right now...So I guess I will stick it out with my dyno oil...and run some Restore in there every half year.

-Jonathan

 

[mk3forme]

Siman I dont know how many miles you have on your brand new rebuild, but you definitely dont want to run synthetic in fresh rebuild. It wont allow your rings to seat properly if at all. Definitley want the dino oil for a fresh rebuild

 

[mk3forme]

oh yeah and Nickleye, that is why im intrigued by the 5w40 and 0w40 that mobil 1 makes. the pour ability of 5 or even 0 weight but the protection of a 40 weight when heated. And that is why the high performance cars come from the factory with 0w40 in them. That oil must flow lightning fast when cold and first started to prevent premature engine wear. And I have always read the same thing. that a good portion of engine wear comes from and unprotected motor when cold.

 

[siman]

I have around 9K on the rebuild.

-Jonathan