tsupranami;1362102 said:
Which is easiest to remove later, right stuff, fipg, or 3bond?
The shop that did my last motor used permatex right stuff and had a hell of a time getting the pan off. I used FIPG and the pan came off easily. The fipg also came off the pan and block pretty easily too.
Neither leaked a drop.
The permatex stuff is like glue, fipg is closer to silicone, AFAIK.
None are fun to remove.
and theres different types of Toyota FIPG. (remember theres so many PN's.)
Toyota FIPG is ussualy made by Permatex or 3Bond.
If you look at Permatex Ultra Greys Technical Data sheet, you'll see toyota fipg PN's listed.)
When i cracked my pan off for the first time it just didn't want to budge. I was afraid of bending the pan; and this is on 1990 Factory FIPG which is most likely a ThreeBond 1200 Series Product. (my guess is 1215 or 1207D)
As for removal.
CRC 05021
Or Standard Abrasives Gasket Remover Kit.
OR.
Get your hands on one of 3M's "rubber bristle" 2" diameter discs. You'll need to buy the mandrel adapter for these so you can mount it in your die grinder or small disc sander or electric drill.
These are generally available at auto body paint supply shops or automotive stores, and come in 3 different "grits". Try using the fine or medium grade disc. They look like a disc faced with a lot of soft rubber "fingers". With a bit of care, the disc will chew right through the old gasket and leave the aluminum very clean without removing aluminum.
I think you'll find that many "pro's" in the automotive trade use these for surface prep as they work so well, are easy to control, and don't grind up the surfaces like the older abrasive surface conditioning sanding discs used to do, or wire brushes, etc.
The cost is nominal; about $10 for a very long lasting disc.*****
*****sunsprit @ alfabb.com
