any easy solutions to shelling out $400.00 to Toyota to replace the oil pan gasket? I have spent almost $6k getting my 87 NA to reliable condition, but I still have no A/C, a non-working passanger window, a leaking P/S pump, and a Transmission that is acting up...I am really getting tired of paying to keep my daily driver running...sorry guess I just wanted to vent..
oil pan leakage..
- Thread starter MortalRift
- Start date
maybe try cleaning around the joining part, then apply some rtv sealant to cure it for a couple more months?
eric
eric
$400 isn't so bad for replacing the oil pan gasket. I did it myself, believe me, it's a fucking pain in the ass.
just for reference, we dont have *gaskets* for the oil pan, its really a sealer called FIPG. its really sticky stuff. maybe if you drain the oil completely, use some degreaser ( a *little* bit) around the leaky spot, and spread some of the FIPG on there it'll stop for a bit. this is a temporary fix until you can get it done correctly!
edit: pulling the motor really isnt that hard. if my oil pan was leaking i'd just pull the motor, stick it on my engine stand, and do it up! some people dont have the tools for that though
-shaeff
edit: pulling the motor really isnt that hard. if my oil pan was leaking i'd just pull the motor, stick it on my engine stand, and do it up! some people dont have the tools for that though
-shaeff
It takes about 2.5 hours for a novice to drop the pan with the motor still in the vehicle. Follow the TSRM, all the brake lines, abs sensors, etc... are long enough to drop the entire X member (held in place by motor mount nuts X2, big bolts X2 and big nuts X4) about 12 inches below the pan. then drain the pan, pry it off and regoo it with FIPG.
Seriously, my girlfriend did it. It's not that hard. it takes a 10mm, 12mm, 14 mm and 17mm.
15 steps. 14, because the hood can stay on.
Seriously, my girlfriend did it. It's not that hard. it takes a 10mm, 12mm, 14 mm and 17mm.
15 steps. 14, because the hood can stay on.
MortalRift said:
HAHAH im with ya buddy, man I loveeeeee my Supra, but sometimes :nono: i just dunno what to do. I keep telling myself..just sell it lol, it must be one of those ''black sheeps'' that just came out with all the problems lol...but I love it so much, I just keep putting my paycheck in it week after week lol. Had her for 1 year...hopefully some day she will stabilize :love:
Yeah you're supposed to use the toyota form in place gasket. Don't use a paper gasket, it won't work.
It may look easy on paper, but it's not an easy job, if you have a daily driver or something it's not so bad, since you don't have a time limit.
It may look easy on paper, but it's not an easy job, if you have a daily driver or something it's not so bad, since you don't have a time limit.
MMMMMMM I dont know. Think my pistons rings are gone. So I have two options. From the Bottom or take the whole thing out. Think I'll just take the whole thing out. :3d_frown: It would just be a pain anyway.
Too true, to true. The only thing that changes my mind is going for that elusive drive, realising its all worth it in the end. I think? lol
Too true, to true. The only thing that changes my mind is going for that elusive drive, realising its all worth it in the end. I think? lol
thanks for all the replies...this is my daily driver, so I can't have it down for too long..I remember putting the sealer around the oil pan was a PITA..close to 35 bolts or something crazy like that...after putting a new motor in and then having to replace the headgasket...I really don't feel like pulling the motor out again...
Adjuster
Supramania Contributor
If you used the "gasket" that came in your gasket kit, the source of your leaking oil pan has been found.
Toyota never, ever used a gasket on the pan for the 7MGTE that I know of. FIPG, or sealer is all they used.
Some bright soul decided to include a pan gasket in the vast majority of rebuild gasket kits, and now leaking 7M's are dripping all over the planet.... LOL
Dropping the pan is a PITA, but better than pulling the motor time wise. (Drop the engine/suspension cradle down slightly like the TSRM notes, and you can do it with the engine in place. You will need to support the engine from above however.....)
This time, use "The Right Stuff" to seal up your pan, and burn your cork gasket. (I now have a leak free 7MGTE assembled with "The Right Stuff" everywhere all the crappy paper gaskets normally go. No leaks now. No leaks ever. (Assuming the engine lasts that long of course....)
Only seals you need are the cams, front and rear mains, oil pump drive, cams and cam cover seals. Gaskets that are nice to have include exhaust, intake and that's it. (And if you want your valve covers to not leak, run a small bead of the right stuff around the inside of the rubber seal, and then put them in place on a clean head. No leaks.)
Good luck. The best news is the can of "The Right Stuff" is like 15.00, and looks like black cheese whiz when you dispense it. (Very easy to get either a nice thin bead if you go faster, and thick beads when you move the can/tip slower....) Can't get any easier.
Toyota never, ever used a gasket on the pan for the 7MGTE that I know of. FIPG, or sealer is all they used.
Some bright soul decided to include a pan gasket in the vast majority of rebuild gasket kits, and now leaking 7M's are dripping all over the planet.... LOL
Dropping the pan is a PITA, but better than pulling the motor time wise. (Drop the engine/suspension cradle down slightly like the TSRM notes, and you can do it with the engine in place. You will need to support the engine from above however.....)
This time, use "The Right Stuff" to seal up your pan, and burn your cork gasket. (I now have a leak free 7MGTE assembled with "The Right Stuff" everywhere all the crappy paper gaskets normally go. No leaks now. No leaks ever. (Assuming the engine lasts that long of course....)
Only seals you need are the cams, front and rear mains, oil pump drive, cams and cam cover seals. Gaskets that are nice to have include exhaust, intake and that's it. (And if you want your valve covers to not leak, run a small bead of the right stuff around the inside of the rubber seal, and then put them in place on a clean head. No leaks.)
Good luck. The best news is the can of "The Right Stuff" is like 15.00, and looks like black cheese whiz when you dispense it. (Very easy to get either a nice thin bead if you go faster, and thick beads when you move the can/tip slower....) Can't get any easier.
if you have access to a lift, dropping the front CM is not that bad at all. however........if you are working in your back yard the only option you will really have is to pull the motor, which really isnt that hard either.
FWIW even though i knew using the cork gasket was a bad idea, my builder on my rebuild used it, and i decided to keep it in there to see what happens.
it may start to leak after a few thousand miles, who knows. i think however the key is to torque down the oil pan bolts to toyotas specs.
but if you were to ask for my advice, i would say to do it the way toyota did it, with FIPG.
FWIW even though i knew using the cork gasket was a bad idea, my builder on my rebuild used it, and i decided to keep it in there to see what happens.
it may start to leak after a few thousand miles, who knows. i think however the key is to torque down the oil pan bolts to toyotas specs.
but if you were to ask for my advice, i would say to do it the way toyota did it, with FIPG.