I have just re-installed my oil pan, i used the oil pan gasket provided by fel-pro. The gasket was a cork type of material. I used ultra black RTV and when i put the 26 bolts in for the oil pan i noticed the gasket would smash outward at each bolt as you tightened it to toyota specifications (9 ft lbs). Some spots even have torn just at the bolt where they smashed out away from the block. Is this alright? Your help is greatly appreciated
Oil pan gasket problem
- Thread starter knucklebuster
- Start date
Cork gaskets are horrible. I know you were using what you had. Try cleaning both surfaces off and using a nice even layer of rtv on it. You want to use a decent amout but dont over do it. Thats what I did on my oil pan and it has held up for about 8 months now. With no leaks.
fibbage is the way to do it, thats how we do it at toyota and the 7ms ive seen have always used it. But if yours doesnt leak then right on.
Your not supposed to use the cork gaskets. They leak.
Toyota never designed the car to use the cork oil pan gaskets.
Only Toyota's FIPG or three bond.
Toyota never designed the car to use the cork oil pan gaskets.
Only Toyota's FIPG or three bond.
cork gaskets are ok to use, but you have to do it right. RTV should not be used with a cork gasket. and the 9 ft lb spec is for a toyota gasket which isnt cork... and since cork is so soft it smooshes out, which you've seen. if its smooshed, its too late the gasket is no good.. but for future reference, when you tighten a cork gasket you tighten by hand until you see the gasket start to smoosh then stop.... what i do is add a drop of loc-tite to ensure the bolts dont come loose... ive had my cork gasket on for about 10k and a year without RTV, no leaks...
however if you run the oil level higher than spec then you will likely leak oil as the cork will act like a wic with the oil when in constant contact.
however if you run the oil level higher than spec then you will likely leak oil as the cork will act like a wic with the oil when in constant contact.
I didn't use a gasket. Just a nice bead of Ultra Black and let it cure for about 10 minutes before i put the pan on. No leaks on mine.
You might need to re-do that gasket. (but I hope not)
FIPG, RTV, all of them need to be installed ASAP after application. You have at most 10-15 minutes before the sealant has started to set-up and it won't seal correctly. After that there is a skin of cured rtv that forms on the outside and its seal quality is greatly reduced.
I aim for <5 minutes from first squirt to onto the engine and 2-3 bolts threaded in. It doesn't have to be fully torqued in that time, but you do want the sealant touching both sealing surfaces before its too late.
You also want the oil pan and block to be absolutely clean: no leftover RTV, oil, grease, etc. I clean the block with carb clean right before I put the pan on, just to make sure there's no contaminants.
FIPG, RTV, all of them need to be installed ASAP after application. You have at most 10-15 minutes before the sealant has started to set-up and it won't seal correctly. After that there is a skin of cured rtv that forms on the outside and its seal quality is greatly reduced.
I aim for <5 minutes from first squirt to onto the engine and 2-3 bolts threaded in. It doesn't have to be fully torqued in that time, but you do want the sealant touching both sealing surfaces before its too late.
You also want the oil pan and block to be absolutely clean: no leftover RTV, oil, grease, etc. I clean the block with carb clean right before I put the pan on, just to make sure there's no contaminants.
I have done it this way for at least 6 of the engines i have built for my self not to mention the hundreds of customers cars i have worked on the 15 years i was a mechanic. Right or wrong, this is how I do it. Please notice that i said this is how i did it on "MY" car. How ever Toyotanos, i do appreciate your concern.