Oil Coolerless with Use of High Grade Synthetic Oil.

[Zumtizzle]

Hey Guys.

I recently purchased another Supra, with a knocking motor. I'm in the midst of prepping a motor for it.

Today I came up with the idea of losing the crappy stock oil pressure based cooler, and just running the oil filter on the block or with a relocation using the NA Stud, of course.

Bearing Clearances would Toyota specs. As well as a shimmed oil pump checked for Toyota specs, and lowered pickup.

High quality NAPA gold or Pure One filters would only be used.

The plans are under 400hp. The Radiator will be upgraded with a Koyo, and Rebuilt fan clutch with a 60% Water, 40% Coolant Mix being used all year round.

Oils I'd only use are. With German Castrol being the main choice.

• German Castrol 0W-30
• Mobil 1 0W-40
• Red Line 0W-30
• Royal Purple 0W-30

2JZ guys eliminate the Stock Water Based Cooler and install the filter on the block often using the N/A or "Ford" Stud. I can afford an oil cooler, and have all components to install one. But, this is a street car, and won't be driven too hard. And will be within the chart I've added.

As well as this thread on Bobistheoilguy for upper limits of German Castrol.

What do you guys think? The Goal is 10 PSI for every 1000RPM, and I think I'll have no worries reaching this goal. As the Oil Can take the Abuse. If there's any flaws in my logic feel free to post.

 

[Devin LeBlanc]

I run my NA-T 7M with no oil cooler with the stock stud in the block.. Never had any problems.. 2000 miles so far, all of hard driving.. Just dyno'd it today and made 319ft lbs of torque to the wheels on 9PSI on a mustang dyno

 

[Zumtizzle]

Thanks Devin, I was hoping for a NA-T'er to chime in. What oil, filters do you use? Any Cooling System Mods?

Also, I might even Use a (90916-03079) 180F Degree Thermostat to help give the system a bump in efficiency in the summer time if I keep the car that long.

-Sumeet

 

[CyFi6]

Considering the stock cooler really doesn't work well i cant imagine deleting it entirely causing any problems. You are upgrading the motor though which changes things quite a bit. Best thing you could do if you try it out is get an oil temp gauge and monitor everything just to be safe. Not to mention oil samples will let you know if the oil is breaking down or not.

 

[Zumtizzle]

Hey Cyrus,

I'm considering buying a Prosport Oil Temp Gauge and installing it. Along with a new Oil Pressure sender for the stock gauge. Thanks For your Input.

Oil samples are a going to be done by BlackStone Labs.

Off-Topic, Nice blue California Plates.

 

[Devin LeBlanc]

I would spend the money on a oil pressure gauge than a oil temp gauge.. The stock gauge is super inaccurate! I just ordered a Water temp and oil pressure gauge for my car.. As far as cooling system mods go the only one I did was a Ford Taurus fan (Electric) It pulls TONS of air and a lot of amps too lol My thermostat is a 195 (I think its OEM spec)?

As far as oil and filter goes.. I usually just use a STP filter but off and on I use a K&N depending on if my autozone card has a free 20.00 on it I personally have never been a fan on synthetic as I have heard horror stories with 7M's switching to synthetic and rods bearings... lol I just use conventional 14.00 for 5+ quarts oil and have great results.. I Always have run 10W40 since I bought the car and put 10,000 miles on as of today.

 

[bioskyline]

should be fine for now, if heat becomes an issue then add a oil cooler from godspeed or similar. ill be ditching the stock oil cooler on mine when my godspeed comes, and moving it to an area that gets better air flow (although rocks and bugs may be an issue now)

 

[Zumtizzle]

I would spend the money on a oil pressure gauge than a oil temp gauge.. The stock gauge is super inaccurate! I just ordered a Water temp and oil pressure gauge for my car.. As far as cooling system mods go the only one I did was a Ford Taurus fan (Electric) It pulls TONS of air and a lot of amps too lol My thermostat is a 195 (I think its OEM spec)?

As far as oil and filter goes.. I usually just use a STP filter but off and on I use a K&N depending on if my autozone card has a free 20.00 on it I personally have never been a fan on synthetic as I have heard horror stories with 7M's switching to synthetic and rods bearings... lol I just use conventional 14.00 for 5+ quarts oil and have great results.. I Always have run 10W40 since I bought the car and put 10,000 miles on as of today.

Yep Stock T-Stat is 195F.

A handful of Supra Owners over the years have run the Stock Oil Pressure sender (new) and aftermarket in conjunction and have said the stock Oil pressure gauge isn't as inaccurate as people think. But for the Money, I'll install a Prosport Oil Pressure Gauge, and water temp gauge as well. I actually have all three laying around, so that's not an issue. I might even skip the install of all three and live on the edge. But Having Some Bling Bling is always nice.

Oil choice is good, for your application as that's what i'd run if i were going conventional and do run in my Stock 22R-E and 2JZ-GE with hella miles. Again i'm no expert. But i'd switch to Napa Gold or Wix Filters as they are simply the best for the money.

 

[hvyman]

Deleting the stock oil cooler wouldnt do much other than allowing better flow to the bearings but with a little hotter temps. As you know go full flow.

 

[mecevans]

Beech sells a relocation kit that you might want to look at. High load is what generates the most heat, so boosting every now and then isn't making much. The better oil flow will do more for your engine than that stock pos cooler could ever do. Maintain your engine oil ,filter, and coolant and your golden. Engines don't die, there murdered. Lol

Devin you might want to read up on some of jdubs oil threads. Most Synthetic is " conventional" but they further refine it to remove undesirables and pick molecules of all the same size. A blend isn't much more expensive too.

I would be curious if the ecu would be dancing between warmup and ops temp with a lower thermostat.,

 

[hvyman]

Ecu uses water temp not oil temp so unless the the water temp was drastically changed, which it shouldn't because of the coolant t stat, than that shouldn't matter. But you want your oil temps to be at a certain temp, so running a lower temp stat would not necessarily be good.

 

[Alec]

I'm glad you brought this up, Zum. I have always thought about doing this.

 

[jetjock]

Crack me up. As if the oil itself is the only issue that should be considered. Especially cracks me up about Devin, who drives a modded car in Vegas, without a cooler, refuses to use anything but off branded dino oil, and actually thinks everything is fine because he's driven 2000 miles "without a problem"...

 

[grimreaper]

Before I installed the oil thermostat a few years back I used to use a piece of cardboard to block the oil cooler until things got to temps. I left the cooler 100% blocked (forgot) and raced some one doing 4-5 pulls from 20-100mph. By the end of the last pull i had 0 oil psi at idle where I normally had 7-10psi. After removing the cardboard it took a few minutes of cruising and oil pressure slowly started to return to "normal". This was on GC 0w-30 in December. I dont know how hot I got the oil but obviously enough to reduce the viscosity. I never ran with a blocked oil cooler after this and never experienced the pressure drop again.

 

[Alec]

There are so many 2J's that do this with great success, I don't see how the 7m would be much different.

 

[grimreaper]

there are also a lot of morons with 2j's that swear up and down that their stock motor NEEDS 50 and 60 weight oils.
How does keeping fluids with in their temperature range = unnecessary?

 

[lowtaco]

I ran my '87 bypassed for awhile before I found a cooler. Only thing I noticed was more oil pressure, specially at idle. I yes I replaced the spring and valve in the housing.

 

[supraguy@aol]

I have run for 3 yrs on a 7mgte with the na oil stud/ no cooler.
No problems, and I used 0w30 synthetic oil. My car is about go get retired to the garage for a complete renovation,
at which time a thermostatic oil cooler setup will be employed(it's actually already installed).

 

[3p141592654]

On what basis do we know that "the stock cooler really doesn't work well".

Does someone care to post up oil temps with and without the oil cooler under various scenarios?

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Scientific_method

 

[CyFi6]

Really just an educated guess that it doesn't really work well. I don't think anyone is willing to devote that much time and effort to investigate the stock oil cooler system. The principle that it works off isn't ideal by any means and appears to be a half assed way of designing the system. Considering the size of the cooler its only a guess that the amount of heat it gives off is not very significant and likely not adequate for high hp applications. I admit that having the cooler is likely better than nothing, but is it necessary? I guess we have to decide that based on an educated guess (or trial and error) seeing as there's no hard data.