Oil cooler/relocator kit: Questions

[3.0T91]

As the title suggests, I do indeed have questions on which cooler/filter relocator kit I want to buy. I have a few requirements, some may seem silly but I don't care. They are as follows: Must have a screw-in adaptor on the side of the block. Must have stainless braided lines with anodized (blue/red) fittings. Lines must be -6. Must have sufficient cooling capabilities for a T-series turbo lashed to a fully built engine. Finally, it needs to have all hardware required for installation. I can get lines made if necessary. That is all. And yes, I can be such a noob sometimes it hurts.

 

[jdub]

There is no kit of the quality you seek

You will need at least -8 lines.

Are you planning to use the stock turbo filter head or are you going full flow to the filter/cooler?

 

[3.0T91]

Full flow to the remote filter housing, then there will be a thermostat on the filter housing. Should I just get a 7m-specific relocator kit then get a different filter mount? That should work right? Then run lines from the filter mount/thermostat out to a cooler? I just want clean, cool oil!

 

[Poodles]

/me is still waiting for one of the vendors to make a complete kit...

 

[BJ91T]

geez you have a big pile of oem stuff ^^^^

 

[Poodles]

oh, that's only about HALF of what I've since put on the car... that was JUST to get it running the way I wanted...

 

[cnewingham]

It is also not going to be cheap to do it right. Most seem to think it only costs about $100 but in reality expect to spend $250+. I did the one on my 7m and now doing one on my 1jz and it is costing the same as the last one. Personally I recommend the socketless an hose and fittings because I dont care for SS lines that much.

 

[3.0T91]

CN, cost is basically no object. I'm throwing tons of money at this re-rebuild anyway so quality and reliability aren't sacrificed in the production of Large Amounts of Power. So if there's a high-quality kit out there that just happens to cost 250+, I'm all for it. Just help me get pointed in the right direction.

P.S: I love braided stainless with the pretty anodized fittings.

 

[Gilsdorf]

This is the set up I did back in August, it is a completely new full flow oil system.
I went with an N/A stud, Canton remote filter adapter, remote filter mount (perma coolRM-1791) w/ Canton Mecca 6.25 spin on filter (8 micron filtration), 180deg B&M thermostat (BMM-70259) , earls 13"x7" cooler, 2qt Canton Accusump with Electronic Pressure Control valving (20-25psi), all plumbed with Earl's AN -10 SS lines and fittings.

Mounted the accusump in the trunk, and plumbed it through the floor with a bulkhead fitting.

Tight fit for a regular wrench, but a stubby or an AN wrench should work.

Mounted the remote filter under the driver's headlight. I'll trim the plastic cover to clean it up a bit, the brass fitting is a one-way check valve so when the accusump dumps it doesn't push against the oil pump (the CM filter has an anti drain back system but I figured I didn't want to over power it and force the filter to back flow). This will fit with the 3" IC pipe, 24x12x3 IC.

This is the thermostat, I got a bunch of 180 degree Earl's fittings on sale so I ended up positioning it this way, if I didn't get the hose ends so cheap I would have just turned the thermostat 90 degrees and plumbed it with right angle fittings. (one of the 180's is off until I drop the engine in). Notice the second check valve, this ensures that the oil coming from the thermostat doesn't flow back and stall when it is only partially open, it also keeps the cooler from siphoning out once the engine is turned off.

Earl's cooler mounted in front of A/C (could have gone bigger, but it is nearly twice the size of the stock one).

I drilled out the coin holder to mount the toggle switch for the electronic valve on the Accusump. It fits great and the holder closes completely (I don't have my battery hooked up, so I don't know which way is ON).

This turned out to be an expensive way to go (way more than $250. . . closer to $750), but knowing that I have a decent system that should stand up to any future higher horsepower goals does give me some piece of mind, (i'm currently at ~500whp, it'll handle anything I'm going to do in the future). I made all of the hose myself with a cutter I bought from Summit and for most of the fittings I just wrapped them in electric tape and used two cresent wrenches to tighten them down, (some got slightly nicked-up, but I'm not building a show car).

Matt

 

[BJ91T]

You have a PM

 

[3.0T91]

Gilsdorf: LOVE that setup. Could you give me part numbers on everything and the vendors? I'd really like to duplicate it! Also, more pics would be appreciated. PM me and I'll shoot you my email address. Later!

 

[jdub]

Yep...that's top-of-the-line
You probably have close to a couple hundred just in AN fittings there...Nicely done Gilsdorf.

 

[3.0T91]

Matters not to me. This buildup will be no shortcuts taken, no band-aids, and nothing overlooked. Of course I said this last time but now I can document it and have all of you point out my errors!

 

[3.0T91]

Here's another issue: I want to mount a slimline 12v fan between the oil cooler (my stack will go IC, oil cooler, condenser, radiator) and the condenser to help push air through the condenser. I would almost have to mount the fan right on the condenser, right?

 

[bigaaron]

My car is at the shop now, let the prototyping begin! I have been wanting to make a similar kit as in the pics above, but I never got around to mocking it all up and taking measurements. It's going to be complete and ready to install with all the fittings already on the hoses. It's still realistically at least a month from being anywhere near done though.

 

[Gilsdorf]

Gilsdorf: LOVE that setup. Could you give me part numbers on everything and the vendors? I'd really like to duplicate it! Also, more pics would be appreciated. PM me and I'll shoot you my email address. Later!

Turbo87,
I bought most of the lines and cooler from Summit Racing (http://www.summitracing.com/), and the other stuff from Canton Mecca. I found the Accusump unit itself on Ebay for cheaper than CM's website price, but it was close (I just copied their price for comparison).

Keep in mind that I didn't use everthing I bought because the original idea was to mount the accusump in the engine bay (I would have bought the 3qt if I knew I was going to put it in the hatch). I don't know if you want to clone my set-up, but as you can see from the pics it will work with the stock IC, a Spearco IC and a front facing manifold set-up.

As far as building it I just found places where I wanted to mount things (where I thought they fit best) and mocked it up, I would take the long spool of SS hose and use it to measure out the lenght of hose I needed not exactly the best way (the first couple of times I had to shorten the assembled hose because I didn't take the length of the hose ends into consideration). I just copied and pasted a bunch of reciepts so it might be hard to read.

Summit Racing:
EAR-815010ERL -10 150 DEGREE SWIVEL-SEAL $24.88 2 $49.76
EAR-983210ERL -10 ST. BULKHEAD FITTING $8.95 1 $8.95
EAR-992410ERL -10 BULKHEAD NUT $3.25 1 $3.25
SUM-220047 -10X1/2 NPT -AN $3.88 5 $19.40
SUM-220054 -10X1/2 PIPE 45' $12.95 2 $25.90
SUM-220083 10AN 60 DEGREE HOSE END $13.95 2 $27.90
SUM-220086 -10 45 HOSE END $14.95 2 $29.90
SUM-220089 10AN 180 DEGREE HOSE END $19.95 2 $39.90
SUM-230020 S.S. HOSE -10 20FT 1 $109.95
EAR-320110ERL A/F -10 HOSE TO 1/2 NPT $13.39 1 $13.39
EAR-982610ERL -10 TO 1/2 NPT T ON RUN $14.95 1 $14.95
SUM-220081 10AN 30 DEGREE HOSE END $3.50 2 $7.00
SUM-220089 10AN 180 DEGREE HOSE END $4.50 1 $4.50
SUM-220089 10AN 180 DEGREE HOSE END $4.50 1 $4.50
SUM-900102 5 PC WRENCH KIT (#4-#12) $47.95 1 $47.95
SUM-G1885 7/8" INSULATED CLAMP 10PK $8.95 1 $8.95
EAR-815010ERL -10 150 DEGREE SWIVEL-SEAL $24.88 1$24.88
SUM-220036 -10 AN MALE TEE $12.95 1 $12.95
EAR-991104ERL 1/2 NPT NIPPLE $6.75 1 $6.75
MOR-23875 ONE WAY VALVE $19.39 1 $19.39
RUS-632620 POWERFLEX HOSE #6-10' $47.88 1 $47.88

Subtotal: $550 (though I didn't use everything I bought--I still have a bunch of AN-10 hose and hose ends left over). But I also couldn't find the reciept that had the oil cooler, thermostat and remote filter mount on it (they were around $250 total)


Canton Mecca/Accusump (same company different websites):
http://www.cmfilters.com/
http://www.accusump.com/
22-595 - FORD/MOPAR 90 DEGREE ROTATING REMOTE FILTER ADAPTER $70.00 $70.00
25-462 - CM -45 BILLET SPIN-ON FILTER 3/4-16 $105.00
24-026 - ACCUSUMP 2QT NO VALVE $185.00 $185.00
24-271 - ACCUSUMP EPC VALVE 20-25 PSI $157.50 $157.50
24-280 - ACCUSUMP CHECK VALVE 1/2" NPT $17.50 $35.00
ACCUSUMP MOUNTING CLAMPS 2/3 QT $17.50 $17.50

Subtotal: $570.00 (for canton mecca/accusump)

Grand total is over $1350 (Holy Shit!! I didn't think it was that much--God help me if my wife finds out!!)

 

[supraguru05]

im running

b&m 8X11 oil cooler
earls billet filter relocater
na filter stud
perma cool dual filter mount
perma cool 180 degree thermostat
im plumbing it all with brass fittings and either jegs push loc or summit twist tight hose

all -8 or 1/2 inch

 

[Poodles]

My car is at the shop now, let the prototyping begin! I have been wanting to make a similar kit as in the pics above, but I never got around to mocking it all up and taking measurements. It's going to be complete and ready to install with all the fittings already on the hoses. It's still realistically at least a month from being anywhere near done though.

does this mean you might be making a complete kit in the future? :naughty:

 

[3.0T91]

Thanks again Gilsdorf. That's an insane amount of money but is well spent on that awesome setup. Just for reference, I'll be running a 'netics T-series and FFIM, with NPR intercooler (for now). Hope to not have any clearance issues.

 

[bigaaron]

does this mean you might be making a complete kit in the future? :naughty:

Yes, but it will be another month or two.