Here is my most recent analysis, makes me think the first place that ran it (last oil change) did not know what they were doing. I also chuckled a little bit when I saw they put down V6 instead of I6, I know I didnt put that down wrong 
Oil Analysis - Post your VOA and UOA Here
- Thread starter Supracentral
- Start date
Not bad at all Dave...what kind of oil filter? What kind of air filter?
What's really good to see is you have zero coolant & water in your oil and very little fuel dilution...your PCV is working very well.
As you can see, that oil had tons of life left. GC will go 8K easy with at filter change at 4K.
What's really good to see is you have zero coolant & water in your oil and very little fuel dilution...your PCV is working very well.
As you can see, that oil had tons of life left. GC will go 8K easy with at filter change at 4K.
What are the Universal averages? My sample doesn't look a whole lot worse than supradjza80 and there telling my it is, I don't understand.
How come our universal averages are different on the same engine?
How come our universal averages are different on the same engine?
jdub;1369836 said:
K&N Filter - I get them free with the oil when AutoZone has the oil change specials - Are there any filters that you think can make the full 8k miles without a change? Or would you recomend just changing it anyway to be safe, I wouldn't want to go into filter bypass.
Apex Air Filter
I will be trying the longer change interval and see what happens from there.
dumbo;1369861 said:
Dumbo - The only reason I beleive they are concerned with your values is due to the amounts found in the oil after just 1000 km or 620 miles (maybe this was entered wrong on the oil analysis sheet?). As you said my values are similar but on a motor with 95000 miles on it and 4300 miles on the oil.
jza80 - The Amsoil EaO filter can easily. Probably the best at filtration as well...hold on to your wallet
With a longer OIC, there's a very good chance your wear metals will actually drop.
Dumbo - Plus, your silicon level was over 3 times what jza80 had...that points straight at a filter issue. Combined with the wear metals you were showing during such a short time was not good. Concerning the universal averages, take a look at his:
Understanding the Oil Report
This link explains the trace elements. Keep something else in mind, the element numbers are in parts per million...think about that for a minute.
Understanding the Elements
If the engine is not correctly identified to Blackstone, the averages are not going to do you much good. I'm pretty sure this is why the universal averages are different for the 2 reports...jza80's motor was ID'ed as a V6.
With a longer OIC, there's a very good chance your wear metals will actually drop.
Dumbo - Plus, your silicon level was over 3 times what jza80 had...that points straight at a filter issue. Combined with the wear metals you were showing during such a short time was not good. Concerning the universal averages, take a look at his:
Understanding the Oil Report
This link explains the trace elements. Keep something else in mind, the element numbers are in parts per million...think about that for a minute.
Understanding the Elements
If the engine is not correctly identified to Blackstone, the averages are not going to do you much good. I'm pretty sure this is why the universal averages are different for the 2 reports...jza80's motor was ID'ed as a V6.
jdub;1370124 said:
Thanks Dub, i just emailed them to see if I can get the report fixed and have them change the unit information in their system.
Also is the Amsoil filter the only one you would be comfortable running more than 4k miles or are there others?
Donaldson makes a filter that is comparable, but I do not know of a reliable source...pretty sure Donaldson makes the EaO for Amsoil. The CM is an alternative, but has a pretty steep initial cost:
http://www.cmfilters.com/spin-on.cfm#cross
These filters do not have a bypass...they filter all the oil and have exceptionally high flow rates. CM says the filter will last 10K under normal use.
Another alternative is to use a dual filter head with a conventional filter on one side and a Trasko bypass filter on the other...you want the T3/4-20S:
http://www.trasko-usa.com/
After the 1st change at 4-5K (cleans the motor out), you could achieve keeping both filters on for 8-10K...the key wll be the visual inspection of the Trasko. You can see the crap from your motor work it's way up the filter on removal. This allows you to adjust the next interval.
The benefit of going this route is your oil will be very clean (< 1 micron for particles)...a bypass filter removes all contaminates. You can run your oil until Blackstone says to change it...I've seen oil go 15-16K (a couple times more than that) before TBN was depleted. The change interval is going to depend on how much make-up oil you add over time that replinishes the additives.
http://www.cmfilters.com/spin-on.cfm#cross
These filters do not have a bypass...they filter all the oil and have exceptionally high flow rates. CM says the filter will last 10K under normal use.
Another alternative is to use a dual filter head with a conventional filter on one side and a Trasko bypass filter on the other...you want the T3/4-20S:
http://www.trasko-usa.com/
After the 1st change at 4-5K (cleans the motor out), you could achieve keeping both filters on for 8-10K...the key wll be the visual inspection of the Trasko. You can see the crap from your motor work it's way up the filter on removal. This allows you to adjust the next interval.
The benefit of going this route is your oil will be very clean (< 1 micron for particles)...a bypass filter removes all contaminates. You can run your oil until Blackstone says to change it...I've seen oil go 15-16K (a couple times more than that) before TBN was depleted. The change interval is going to depend on how much make-up oil you add over time that replinishes the additives.
10,500 miles!!! Don't you know that you cant run an oil that long!
Think about all the starving kids at Jiffy Lube
LOL...those are excellent numbers. I agree with Blackstone, run it 12,500 next time. You gotta love GC
Think about all the starving kids at Jiffy Lube
LOL...those are excellent numbers. I agree with Blackstone, run it 12,500 next time. You gotta love GC
Ah screw those oil change places.
I feel bad I tossed the oil, should have run it in the old lawn mower or something.
The oil was very dark when I drained it, goes to show you cant tell whats happening unless you get it tested.
The cost of this analysis is more than justified by the invaluable data.
Was averaging 38mpg on it too, has since dropped off some. I think winter blend petrol is being used now.
I feel bad I tossed the oil, should have run it in the old lawn mower or something.
The oil was very dark when I drained it, goes to show you cant tell whats happening unless you get it tested.
The cost of this analysis is more than justified by the invaluable data.
Was averaging 38mpg on it too, has since dropped off some. I think winter blend petrol is being used now.
High potassium and sodium typically indicate a coolant leak. In addition the UOA shows positive for antifreeze. i would try and find the source of the leak...meanwhile, you will have to change the oil more frequently to negate it's effect.
got my oil report back yesterday...not exactly what i was hoping to see from a 30,000 mile motor.....
where could i be leaking antifreeze into the oil? the only place i can think of...i dont wanna say :: no ::
where could i be leaking antifreeze into the oil? the only place i can think of...i dont wanna say :: no ::
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Turbo87 - I'm afraid what you are thinking is the likely cause. What's really troubling is the bearing metal wear with only 3200 miles on the oil.
Mike - Blackstone is nailing it. Right now the coolant problem is being managed adequately - unlike Turbo87, your wear metals are not out of line, esp for the bearings. The change interval you are using is working - you should be able to go to 5K with no adverse effect. While RP is a good oil, it's add pack is not as stout as others available. Give German Castrol a try in this motor.
Mike - Blackstone is nailing it. Right now the coolant problem is being managed adequately - unlike Turbo87, your wear metals are not out of line, esp for the bearings. The change interval you are using is working - you should be able to go to 5K with no adverse effect. While RP is a good oil, it's add pack is not as stout as others available. Give German Castrol a try in this motor.
jdub;1605249 said:
You think it's possibly the intake manifold gaskets instead of the heads this being a V8? I'd suspect it would be worsening if it were a HG problem.....
Supracentral;1605274 said:
The intake manifold would be the 1st thing I would look at
Does the throttle body have coolant passages through it? If so, that's another possibility.