Occasional ticking/knocking Sound at Idle

Chambers

Now you know
Sep 9, 2007
981
0
0
35
Baltimore County, Maryland
Hi all, occasionally my car has a noticeable ticking/knocking sound at idol after the car has warmed up. I originally thought it to be the AC compressor or the PWR steering pump. I removed the AC comp belt and found the bearing was bad in it so it was making a sound but the ticking/knocking sound was still there. I then moved on to the PWR steering pump, I noticed something really weird with it though, the belt flipped over and it was chewed all up, I replaced it along with the ALT and water pump belt and the ticking/knocking sound still persisted, and it seemed as if there was another new ticking sound coming from the intake side cam.

That was two days ago, I just took the car out tonight and it was running great, better than has in a while, it really seemed that it had more pep, and when I returned home the I couldn't hear the ticking/knocking sound anymore, I don't expect anyone to have exactly what the answer is, but any idea on where to look if I hear it again would be helpful. By the way, the car has a mid-low mileage JDM engine in it, I just changed the oil to a weight of 10-40 two weeks ago. It has had a occasional very small miss in it for a while as well, It can barely be heard or felt, could that have contributed to the ticking/knocking sound, and could the ticking/knocking sound be caused by something with distributer? Like I said, any advice would be helpful, Thanks!!
 

Chambers

Now you know
Sep 9, 2007
981
0
0
35
Baltimore County, Maryland
I had AMSOIL 20-50W in it for summer, and switched to AMSOIL 10-40W, previous owner had straight 40W in it.

That was the first time I heard a clear ticking sound from the valve train, I'm very use to it, so I know it when I hear it, my 84 Ranger has a ticking rocker/spring.
 

dugums

Better, Faster, Stronger
Apr 10, 2007
699
0
16
Chicago, IL
Chambers said:
That was the first time I heard a clear ticking sound from the valve train, I'm very use to it, so I know it when I hear it, my 84 Ranger has a ticking rocker/spring.

Sorry - could you restate that? Are you saying that you don't think it's valve train noise - or you do?
 

quake

toyota tech
Apr 13, 2005
619
0
16
r.i.
would not be using thicker than a 30w oil unless the motor was built for it. As for ticking sounds like it needs to have the buckets shimmed.
 

suprarx7nut

YotaMD.com author
Nov 10, 2006
3,811
1
38
Arizona
www.supramania.com
Chambers said:
Yea? How would you build a engine for thicker oil, its not a concept I have considered. Also what do you mean by buckets? Thanks.

If the motor is stock, use the recommended oil weight. If you have a fully built motor, the oil weight could be different.

Stock motor = 30W

Fully built = 30W or other, pending build.
 

Chambers

Now you know
Sep 9, 2007
981
0
0
35
Baltimore County, Maryland
I see, thanks for all your ideas, as for the crank pulley bolt, I'm pretty sure it's not that, but ill check it out.
Valve lash, I can really see that being one of the two sounds.
I have a video up that had the other sound I'm talking about, you can hear it at idol but the camera didn't pick it up so I revd the engine a little. Sitting still in neutral its loudest around 2000 rpms, when driving its loudest in third gear when I feather the gas pedal, around 2800 to 3000 rpms, It maybe louder in fourth or fifth gear but road noise and my exhaust prevents me from hearing it to well. Thanks.
http://youtube.com/watch?v=Z6ns9zjPmrA
 

Chambers

Now you know
Sep 9, 2007
981
0
0
35
Baltimore County, Maryland
Thats what my friend said a few weeks ago, I didn't want to jump to conclusions without justifying them, when I read the page on rod knock from, supracentral, I think thats the name, it pretty much matched the description he gave.

It's had this sound since before I bought it, I always thought it was just how the vehicle sounded, until the ticking in valve train started, then I started to put two-two together and realized that the knocking sound might not be right. The ticking in the valve train isn't constant, I have only heard it twice now, once yesterday, and the day before I started this thread.

I'm thinking it will take about two weeks to strip the engine down and get it all back together correctly, but I'm at a loss for how much this will be. I kinda feel when I get it apart I'll find something else wrong and have no where enough money to fix it all. I don't know as of now, but I'll have to baby the car for a while until I can afford to fix it. Thanks.
 

Chambers

Now you know
Sep 9, 2007
981
0
0
35
Baltimore County, Maryland
Yea, thats what I was afraid of, the engine had a metal head gasket installed when they swapped the engine into it, should I still have a machine shop re plane the block and head? Also how much are we talking about for a decent rebuild, and what parts should I put higher on the priority list besides the obvious? Thanks.
 

Nalleywhacker

Formerly gnarkill87
Oct 2, 2006
643
0
16
chattanooga,TN
well you should resurface the head and block if there outside there tolerances, and as for a rebuild i personally would go for all new rods, pistons, and crank. and all arp hardware, and a good mhg. and if its done correctly you shouldnt have any problems.