Not reaching operating temps

[bountykilla0118]

I haven’t been home to look at my car and I am just seeing what you guys think before I start. I going to be dealing with it today but here is the rundown

My turbo was in need of a rebuild, which I can’t afford at the moment so I just took my turbo off and I have been running NA with the GTE electronics. I ran the oil line from the block back into the drain and looped my coolant lines. I noticed a drop in my oil pressure reading, but it’s expected from my little understanding since I ran my oil lines the way I did.

For the AFM I used a few of 2.5 inch intercooler pipes and couplers to connect the AFM directly to the throttle body bypassing the intercooler all together. I know it’s not the best situation but its getting me by for the moment. I have been driving around since Thurs evening and I haven't reached normal operating temps yet, also I have no heat coming through my vents which of course makes sense.... the car cant blow hot hair if there is nothing to heat the air. I haven’t tried to use the heat in about a year so its possible that the heat wasn’t functioning properly before all this.

Moving forward I am thinking that with the winter.... my thermostat maybe stuck open which I am hoping is the situation because all my coolant lines are considerably “lukewarm” as if I was running without a thermostat.

What do you think?

 

[RazoE]

Even without a thermostat you'll eventually reach operating temps, might take half an hour to do so but it'll get there...

Might be a combo of stuck thermo and a broken gauge...



By the way did you switch to an NA manifold?

 

[bountykilla0118]

no i used an old ct26 exhaust housing and welded a metal plate i had to used what i had at the time ..... since i dont have another car anymore

 

[RazoE]

There is a valve on the passenger side firewall. That is the heater valve, to do a test, pull up on the lever on the bottom and you should get heat, well if its warm. If there's no heat even after you open up the valve then its something else...

You can ziptie the valve open, loop the vacuum lines on it to keep it open, or replace it with another...

 

[dumbo]

Plug your oil feed at the block. No need to loop that and your oil pressure will go back up.

 

[bountykilla0118]

There is a valve on the passenger side firewall. That is the heater valve, to do a test, pull up on the lever on the bottom and you should get heat, well if its warm. If there's no heat even after you open up the valve then its something else...

You can ziptie the valve open, loop the vacuum lines on it to keep it open, or replace it with another...

that valve is working

 

[bountykilla0118]

Plug your oil feed at the block. No need to loop that and your oil pressure will go back up.

Really I didnt know i tried to keep the flow of everything the same but if what you say is true then thats in the works i m taking my fitting to be matched up

 

[CRE]

I agree, plug it.

 

[toyzforme]

Shouldn't you be running rich without the turbo?

 

[bountykilla0118]

Good point but .... Shouldn't you re-tune your car every time you make a change especially a change that affects fuel and air? But to answer your question I lowered my fuel pressure a good bit

Just for some back ground information that you might already know but during closed loop the TCCS(stock 7m ecu.) make corrections based on inputs from the AFM, TPS, CPS, coolant temp, stock o2 sensor which deals with the vf signal. Based off of those inputs and any other(s) that I might leaving off, the ecu make fuel trim corrections off of that feedback. Now WOT is different if I left my tune the same after I removed my 61 or 66mm turbo I would be very rich at WOT because the ecu enters open loop and dump max fuel without any inputs and this happens after you reach about 70% throttle. This is the area to tune on the stock ecu

But for background take a look bellow and come to your own conclusion of what my target a/f ratio is for a non-boosted car. These are some notes I have taken from this site over the years about the VF signal and fuel mixture thanks to isnms

vF is a great tool for dialing in closed loop- when TCCS is not constantly correcting, the engine runs much better. Heck, a WB AF meter would just get in the way in this particular circumstance...quality closed loop is more of a feel than a number
Vf1 Signal EFI Status Fuel Trim
5.00 V Lean + (11-20) %
3.75 V Slightly Lean + (4-10) %
2.50 V Normal ± (0-3) %
1.25 V Slightly Rich - (4-10) %
0.00 V Rich - (11-20) %

Air and Fuel ratio
9.0:1 --- BLACK SMOKE (NO POWER), CYLINDER WASH
11.5:1 --- RICH BEST TORQUE @ WOT
12.2:1 --- SAFE BEST POWER @ WOT
13.3:1 --- LEAN BEST TORQUE @ WOT
14.6:1 --- STOCHIMETRIC AFR ( CHEMICALLY CORRECT )
15.5:1 --- LEAN CRUISE
16.5:1 --- BEST FUEL ECONOMY (EXCEPT FOR HONDA MOTOR COMPANY)
18.0:1 --- CARBURETED LEAN LIMIT (EXCEPT FOR HONDA MOTOR COMPANY)
22.0:1 --- EFI LEAN LIMIT

 

[CRE]

The ECU still measures the quantity of air entering the engine at WOT... you may run rich but it's not going to try to dump in the same amount of fuel it'd give with 6psi of boost.