not good throttle response

[mk3-4-me]

so i just got my car running good... i just took it out.. and it doesnt feel like it has the best throttle response.. when i hit it, it took a sec or 2 to down shift. And it doesnt feel as powerfull as it should be.

i just have 2.5 in IC piping, stock IC, stock everything else.

Would bigger IC piping cause me to hit 9 psi with no washers?


I do have a code 52, because i had bought a knock sensor that was from an 89+ i think cause it is grey instead of yellow like my old one. The clip is flater than my round plug.




Could a KS code be whats not making my car feel like it should? This is really the first time ive driven a supra.. lol so idk what to compare to. But it just doesnt feel like it should.

My O/D light would flash to when it was on. so idk what that about either.

Also when I pulled my oil fill cap off, there was some white smoke coming out.. Not thick, but I could see it. Maybe because it 20 degrees here and it's just cause that warm? And I kinda smells like gas... So idk what that means...

I just rebuilt the motor last year, and just got it running good now.

 

[Moy]

tighten up the throttle linkage between the gas pedal and the throttle body under the hood by loosing and tightening the nuts on the linkage on the assembly.

for the downshift, tight up the linkage from the trans to the assembly. the cable is for throttle input, the linkage opens the throttle valve inside of the valvebody assembly and regulates line pressure to the various valves, solenoids, and accumulators. a loose cable will cause delayed input. tighten it up a bit.

 

[D.J.T.]

Seems like we have a similar problem. The check engine light comes on IF I DO NOT WARM UP ENGINE & its always code 52. The knock sensors are too close to each other, i placed the front one in the wrong place but hadn't had time to move it. Other than that when i drive it a bit hard it idles fine... let it idle for 30+ seconds then turn it off. An hour later i start it up & it has trouble idling & will die sometimes.. & ill press the gas & throttle response is off. Timing is correct. I suspect a boost leak!

Oh & yea its normal for white smoke to come out when its 20 minus degrees outside. happens to me all the time, after the engine gets to operating temp it should stop, or if its cold enough there should be less. You know someone hasn't warmed up their engine when its extremely cold & theyre rolling & a bunch of smoke is coming out but it doesn't smell. Burning oil smells & you could straight up tell.

 

[hvyman]

Fix 52...

 

[mk3-4-me]

Ya I adjusted the linkages... The tranny one was way off, so that makes sense. Thanks MOY.

And ya I have an 89+knocksensor so it doesn't fit in my 87 clip.. Lol so that's prolly why I have the code.

And is it supposed to kinda smell like gas in the oil fill hole? It's not to strong but I can smell a lil gas.

 

[hvyman]

Might want to do a compression check.

 

[Moy]

Ya I adjusted the linkages... The tranny one was way off, so that makes sense. Thanks MOY.

And ya I have an 89+knocksensor so it doesn't fit in my 87 clip.. Lol so that's prolly why I have the code.

And is it supposed to kinda smell like gas in the oil fill hole? It's not to strong but I can smell a lil gas.

Check your PCV system for blockages and proper operation. The PCV purges the crankcase of blow-by gasses which pressurize the crankcase, as well as deposit fuel vapors.

Compression check and PCV system checks

As far as the knock sensor any pre-89 knock sensor is fine. I have one sitting in my garage if needed

However, I have an 87 harness plugged into 89+ sensors. I don't think the connectors changed until 91?

 

[D.J.T.]

Ya I adjusted the linkages... The tranny one was way off, so that makes sense. Thanks MOY.

And ya I have an 89+knocksensor so it doesn't fit in my 87 clip.. Lol so that's prolly why I have the code.

And is it supposed to kinda smell like gas in the oil fill hole? It's not to strong but I can smell a lil gas.

Yea same here man, smells like gas a bit. Do a compression test & change oil after. See what happens

 

[Poodles]

Gonna save you a lot of time here.

My O/D light would flash to when it was on. so idk what that about either.

This right here is your #1 issue. O/D light flashing is the transmission version of a check engine light. Follow the instructions here:http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?S=AT&P=13

Now, the code 52 is fault in knock sensor circuit. There are 3 different part numbers for the knock sensors, so there is a chance the later model 91+ ones have a different plug. If it plugged in fine, then it's the wiring (as is most common). So far as I know with a code 52 the timing won't be as agressive so you'll be down on power, but it WON'T effect the shifting of the transmission, that's completely different.

 

[mk3-4-me]

im pretty sure my tranny wasnt down shifting all the time because of the tranny throttle linkage not being tight enough. so hopefully that was fixed.

Ill check the tranny codes though to make sure.

And i know i have the wrong KS because the one that doesnt fit has a flat side to it. My original KS is round and green. This one is semi-round with a flat spot and grey.

 

[Moy]

take a picture of it? maybe you're trying to use the wrong plug? not trying to condescend but my N/A KS is green and the GTE I have is 89+ with gray KS and the green plug fits just fine on/in the gray KS

 

[mk3-4-me]

Huh... I will try to get a pic when I can.. I have one KS that is green and round that came with the car... And the one that I got because my other green one broke, is grey and flat on one side. Maybe its an N/A KS? I'll Try to get a pic up..

 

[Moy]

no what I'm saying is my N/A KS is green and round and my GTE 89+ KS is gray and round haha

 

[Poodles]

im pretty sure my tranny wasnt down shifting all the time because of the tranny throttle linkage not being tight enough. so hopefully that was fixed.

Ill check the tranny codes though to make sure.

And i know i have the wrong KS because the one that doesnt fit has a flat side to it. My original KS is round and green. This one is semi-round with a flat spot and grey.

Cable is a line pressure cable, it's not a kickdown cable like on an old Chevy. It doesn't effect times of downshifts.

 

[mk3-4-me]

Wow lol... That's weird... Well idk the guy before me had N/A injectors in the gte.. Lol maybe he also got the wrong KS... But anyways about the flat one I have... U dnt know what year or model has a grey KS with a flat side? The green clip doesnt fit on it, so I'm thinking it from a newer car..? I have an 87.

I'll try to get a pic of it when I can.

R the KS different between N/A and turbo? Dnt they do the same thing?

---------- Post added at 02:18 PM ---------- Previous post was at 02:14 PM ----------

And ya the pressure cable wasnt set right so when I gave it gas it wasn't pulling it out far enough for the right pressure, thus not always d.s and taking a lil longer. It was way looser than it needed to be..

 

[Poodles]

NA and turbo are the same part number, the changes are by year and what maker.

89615-30020 all the way up until 08/1991
89615-33010 after 08/1991 made by MATUSITA
89615-33020 after 08/1991 made by NIPPONDENSO

This is world wide as well.

No, the cable is for line pressure, it has ZERO control over the shift points. It's a computer controlled transmission. It will only adjusts harshness of the shifts. 5th symptom down: http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?S=AT&P=10

 

[mk3-4-me]

Ya but doesn't the line give pressure to the lines to fill up the shift actuator things causing it to shift? Idk but I'm pretty sure that was what causeed it to take a while to d.s and sometimes not...

Idk what ever it does it was still not being pulled out all the way, but now it is set right.

 

[Moy]

Well I never had that light flash at me nor did I ever have delayed shifts... just letting you know

 

[Poodles]

Ya but doesn't the line give pressure to the lines to fill up the shift actuator things causing it to shift? Idk but I'm pretty sure that was what causeed it to take a while to d.s and sometimes not...

Idk what ever it does it was still not being pulled out all the way, but now it is set right.

The actual switching of the gears is done through solenoids activated by the computer or through linkage control from the shifter. The line pressure cable is there to increase line pressure to reduce slip. More throttle = more power = more slip so it increases pressure to reduce this.

 

[mk3-4-me]

Ok well thx for the help... I checked for tranny codes and the light was just blinking, so it's all good.