No start, engine cranks, got spark and fuel LONG!

S

spitfire

New Member
Nov 4, 2006
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Rolla, MO
I recently did some modifications. Rebuilt turbo, new intercooler, hard pipes, bov, EGR removal. My car started yesterday and when I came in today It cranks but does not start. I pulled 2 spark plugs, they looked clean (I just replaced them) and smelled of gas. I tested them for spark and there is spark. I cleaned the gas off and put them back in.

I have checked the following items...

codes....No codes
CPS.....resistance is within specs, tried to wiggle the wires while cranking
plug wires....everyone fired a spark, so that would eliminate coil pack failure right?

Idle control valve.....it is bad....it dosent move with the voltage test in any direction. i dont think it would cause a no start though, I took it apart and moved the stepper motor so it was in the completly open position. It was stuck in the closed position. Still didnt start though.

I tried spraying starting fluid in the 3000 pipe

I have been over every vacuum line in the car.

I think the Cold start injector switch is bad because its reading 73 ohms and the coolent is nowhere near 59 degrees. (TSRM says that it should be 25-45 ohms below 59 degrees) That wont cause the car to not start will it?

The exhaust is fluttering so I think that the timing belt is still in tact......I checked for wear on it before I put the timing cover back on during the powdercoating.

Checked the grounds to the igniter and the grounds on the intake runner.

Things to think about:

I have 2 AFM's and both are kind of goobered up. One throws an engine code 24 and the other has been broken and repaired. Would a bad AFM cause this? ALSO I powdercoated the housing maybe it needs to be gounded to that bolt that holds in the engine bay?

I removed the EGR....Maybe i didnt route the lines correctly? I left the sensor down by the lower intake on but caped the lines.

Im all out of ideas and am leaning towards getting a new ECU. If you guys have any other solutions you can think of please let me know.

Thanks for reading and sorry its so long!
 
Nick M

Nick M

Black Rifles Matter
Sep 9, 2005
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If you are sparking, then you have the pick up signal from the cps, and the ECU is correctly interpretting the signal. You probably don't need an ECU.
 
S

spitfire

New Member
Nov 4, 2006
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Rolla, MO
Check the fuel pump relay by jumpering the fp to b+ pins in the check connector. If it starts then the relay is bad.
Click to expand...

No go thanks for the suggestion though....got anymore?

Heres an update:
Borrowed a good AFM off another car....still no start...changed spark plugs....nothing.....moved relocated battery up front.
 
S

spitfire

New Member
Nov 4, 2006
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Rolla, MO
If you are sparking, then you have the pick up signal from the cps, and the ECU is correctly interpretting the signal. You probably don't need an ECU.
Click to expand...

OH....I heard from another person that if I was trying to start it and the RPM's fluttered around it was the ecu. Is that good advise?
 
89turbosupra

89turbosupra

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Jun 10, 2006
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oxnard
A car needs 5 things to fire: Air, spark, fuel, and niod (injectors turning on) Since you have a messed up AFM i would find someone you could borow it from. You know you have spark so I would chech your fuel pressure and noid. Harbor freight sells a noid kit for about $10. Also check if your timing belt jumped a tooth.
 
Yellow 13

Yellow 13

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Apr 4, 2006
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Fairfield, California
bigaaron said:
Check the fuel pump relay by jumpering the fp to b+ pins in the check connector. If it starts then the relay is bad.
Click to expand...

You talking about on the diagnosis terminal? I might have to try this, my fuel pump relays been buzzing and the cars not starting.
 
Yellow 13

Yellow 13

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Apr 4, 2006
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Who me? All my grounds are on good n' tight.

My battery doesnt hold a charge so Ive been trying to jump it with a suspect battery charger after a few hours of trickle. Im gonna swap out the battery and try again.
 
Yellow 13

Yellow 13

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Apr 4, 2006
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Yep. It cranks, has spark on 1,3, and 6 with new plugs and wires so Im guessing the others are fine, fuel is going to the CSI and everything is within timing, so Im left with electrical and compression.

I fired it up a few months ago but it had piston slap so i had to pull it all apart again.
 
tookwik4u89

tookwik4u89

Red T-shirt
Apr 6, 2005
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Rockford, IL
If you have FP at the csi, pump should be working. Does it sound like it has compression rolling over? or cranking fast? did you take cam gears off?
 
tookwik4u89

tookwik4u89

Red T-shirt
Apr 6, 2005
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Just make sure the dowel pins are in the center of the 3 holes on cams or timing is way off.

If you shoot a little carb cleaner in the 3000 pipe /intake, see if it tries to fire then, to eliminate fuel problem questions.
 
Nick M

Nick M

Black Rifles Matter
Sep 9, 2005
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If you have good spark and fuel is injected, you have a timing problem. Either engine timing, or spark is way off.

There are not 5 things for combustion. There are many. However, there are three main points. Those are air/fuel ratio, spark timing, and compression. If the engine is out of time, you will not have compression. If the timing is way off, the mixture will not light. Fuel injection way off will run bad, but probably start. You can not have injection timing off with correct spark timing. They come from the same signal.
 
bigaaron

bigaaron

Supramania Contributor
Apr 12, 2005
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Yellow 13 said:
You talking about on the diagnosis terminal? I might have to try this, my fuel pump relays been buzzing and the cars not starting.
Click to expand...

If you use the fp terminal to 12v it bypasses the relay and sends 12v right to the pump. If the relay is buzzing it is probably bad.
 
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