I recently did some modifications. Rebuilt turbo, new intercooler, hard pipes, bov, EGR removal. My car started yesterday and when I came in today It cranks but does not start. I pulled 2 spark plugs, they looked clean (I just replaced them) and smelled of gas. I tested them for spark and there is spark. I cleaned the gas off and put them back in.
I have checked the following items...
codes....No codes
CPS.....resistance is within specs, tried to wiggle the wires while cranking
plug wires....everyone fired a spark, so that would eliminate coil pack failure right?
Idle control valve.....it is bad....it dosent move with the voltage test in any direction. i dont think it would cause a no start though, I took it apart and moved the stepper motor so it was in the completly open position. It was stuck in the closed position. Still didnt start though.
I tried spraying starting fluid in the 3000 pipe
I have been over every vacuum line in the car.
I think the Cold start injector switch is bad because its reading 73 ohms and the coolent is nowhere near 59 degrees. (TSRM says that it should be 25-45 ohms below 59 degrees) That wont cause the car to not start will it?
The exhaust is fluttering so I think that the timing belt is still in tact......I checked for wear on it before I put the timing cover back on during the powdercoating.
Checked the grounds to the igniter and the grounds on the intake runner.
Things to think about:
I have 2 AFM's and both are kind of goobered up. One throws an engine code 24 and the other has been broken and repaired. Would a bad AFM cause this? ALSO I powdercoated the housing maybe it needs to be gounded to that bolt that holds in the engine bay?
I removed the EGR....Maybe i didnt route the lines correctly? I left the sensor down by the lower intake on but caped the lines.
Im all out of ideas and am leaning towards getting a new ECU. If you guys have any other solutions you can think of please let me know.
Thanks for reading and sorry its so long!
I have checked the following items...
codes....No codes
CPS.....resistance is within specs, tried to wiggle the wires while cranking
plug wires....everyone fired a spark, so that would eliminate coil pack failure right?
Idle control valve.....it is bad....it dosent move with the voltage test in any direction. i dont think it would cause a no start though, I took it apart and moved the stepper motor so it was in the completly open position. It was stuck in the closed position. Still didnt start though.
I tried spraying starting fluid in the 3000 pipe
I have been over every vacuum line in the car.
I think the Cold start injector switch is bad because its reading 73 ohms and the coolent is nowhere near 59 degrees. (TSRM says that it should be 25-45 ohms below 59 degrees) That wont cause the car to not start will it?
The exhaust is fluttering so I think that the timing belt is still in tact......I checked for wear on it before I put the timing cover back on during the powdercoating.
Checked the grounds to the igniter and the grounds on the intake runner.
Things to think about:
I have 2 AFM's and both are kind of goobered up. One throws an engine code 24 and the other has been broken and repaired. Would a bad AFM cause this? ALSO I powdercoated the housing maybe it needs to be gounded to that bolt that holds in the engine bay?
I removed the EGR....Maybe i didnt route the lines correctly? I left the sensor down by the lower intake on but caped the lines.
Im all out of ideas and am leaning towards getting a new ECU. If you guys have any other solutions you can think of please let me know.
Thanks for reading and sorry its so long!