No Spark, but everything tests good

[Crazybobmundo]

So my brother and I went to try adjust the tps and decided on taking off the intake pipe and checking for something. Anything really, something abnormal.


Well I never actually taken a pipe off and sniffed it. This time I did thinking about what 89supra7mgte said about a faulty AFPR. Well it smells like fuel, do they all smell like fuel?

I also smelled the vac line going to the regulator and it too smells like fuel, like a STRONG smell of fuel. Im guessing my AFPR is bad and have to get a rebuild kit.

I did buy it used. Its an AEM Universal AFPR with the 1:1 ratio. Ill order that kit tomorrow and cross my fingers thats the problem so I can fix it.

What do you guys think?

 

[89supra7mgte]

Most of the bad reg that i have run into leak fuel back out. There is always a possibility that is stuck internally too, fortunate to have one that is rebuildable. You said your bro has a supra as well, you can always pull tha vac line off that one with it running or after has been shut off to see what it is like? As far as the smell in the intake, you will have some fuel smell not sure how much exaclty, but i do believe that it should not be too terribly strong. The cold start is pretty much right below the the tb so initial start up should really be the only reason that smell is traveling, if its extremely strong you could have a csi issue or time switch problem as well.

you do have the two pins jumped when setting the timing right?

 

[T-MA71]

Most of the bad reg that i have run into leak fuel back out. There is always a possibility that is stuck internally too, fortunate to have one that is rebuildable. You said your bro has a supra as well, you can always pull tha vac line off that one with it running or after has been shut off to see what it is like? As far as the smell in the intake, you will have some fuel smell not sure how much exaclty, but i do believe that it should not be too terribly strong. The cold start is pretty much right below the the tb so initial start up should really be the only reason that smell is traveling, if its extremely strong you could have a csi issue or time switch problem as well.

you do have the two pins jumped when setting the timing right?

I guess we could pull that vac off from mine (im his bro). Do you think it'll be the same problem as if it were aftermarket? Mines a completley stock fuel system.

 

[89supra7mgte]

I take it all back, first i need to clarify which end of the line you were smelling? taken off of reg or line taken off of vac supply form engine, while still attached to reg? If you have mass amounts of fuel in the intake system you will smel it on the vac line if still attached to engine. If you can smell it while it is still attached to reg than the diaphragm may have a small tear, usually this will cause the vac line to become wet with fuel though.

Have you guys tried to adjust the reg at all? could be a possibility that it just came loose or backed out, anything accidental. I would check that before you go tearing it apart though, as to this, if the problem will save some time and money.

And dont forget while the tb is off to set the tps, and do it smarter than i did and make sure you are on the correct stop screw.

 

[Crazybobmundo]

I was smelling the line off of the AFPR.


I just took the reg apart and it appears fine. The diaphram is in one piece and dry as a bone. The other side wet with fuel like normal. The spring is there and the little caps that go a long with it. Reassembled to the AEM Manual.

Im going to check every little thing before I go starting it again. I feel that it'll blow up the next time.

 

[Crazybobmundo]

Well when it started the first time it wouldnt stay on and the reg was set to 20 or so PSI. I then turned it up and the car ran on its own. but like i said earlier I adjusted it to 40 with the vac off and plugged it back on and it stayed at 40.

Im really getting aggravated. Im going to Double Double check my lines and IC pipes. Even the cams, maybe by some stupid reason I installed them incorrectly?

Ugh.

 

[89supra7mgte]

I am not quite sure how you set the fuel psi,, i mean whether you apply vac or without to get the base.

I do agree with double checking. while you have it apart or the 3000 pipe off, turn the key on or power up the fuel pump(given your lines are hooked back up, open the tb and look at the csi, see if is leaking fuel? if it is leaking or injecting fuel with the pump engergized i do believe it is bad. the tsrm has specs on all of, think its like no more than one drop every so many seconds.


When double checking the tsrm is very helpful start with basics again. Set number cylinder on tdc compression (pull oil cap to see that intake cam lobe, is facing up, then roll crank back to "0") Check to make sure your cam marks are dead nuts (may have slipped one forward or backwards when releasing tensioner) then stab that silly pain in the ass cps.

And also make sure you have no vac leaks anywhere

 

[ForcedTorque]

Look at your cam gears. Make sure that the dowel pin is in the center hole of the gear, and in the center hole on the cam itself. Once I sorted this out, I could finally get my timing to be centered on the CPS.

I got a little lost reading through. I'm assuming you have the spark issue solved? That video sure looked like a timing issue. You also need to be sure the wiring to the CPS is good. That is a very common problem in our cars.

 

[Crazybobmundo]

Oh sorry maybe I didnt clarify.
I did fix my spark issue when I swaped the engine bay fuse block.

I am going to check the dowel keys on the cams and cam gears. Im kind of hoping thats the problem at this point. Because if it isnt....what else could it be.

I may be donating it to charity if I cant fix this.


PS. would faulty AFM electronics cause this?

 

[89supra7mgte]

but would the cps wires be affected depending on the time of day?

 

[ForcedTorque]

PS. would faulty AFM electronics cause this?

It is possible. Typically, a faulty AFM won't rev over 2500 rpm. To test it, unplug the AFM. If no change, follow the TSRM for a secondary test. Running like it is, it may not even start with it unplugged. And, remember, the ECU does have to learn idle after the battery has been disconnected. That shouldn't take too long though.

 

[89supra7mgte]

Like said above, faulty afm wont rev, but it will cause a lot of over fueling, found out the hard way, and it will usually set a code. mine would rev up and die when you let off due to flooding and would then set afm code 31

 

[Crazybobmundo]

Ok guys I checked the cam sprockets to make sure they are aligned and do have the center pin.

The crank is also at 0 degrees.

I even checked the injectors to make sure I plugged them in the right order. ( I soldered RC550')

I swapped ECU's AGAIN, and nothing changes.

Im affraid of starting it again because of the backfires on the intake.

I asked for random suggestions from friends and one came up with a clogged cat.

What are the symptoms of a clogged cat...

Reason I ask is this,

I think I blew my turbo, I had a squirt of oil out of the turbine side during one of the backfires. I mean the oil could have caused this but my 02 sensor is now junk because Im getting that code now.

Im running out of Ideas and Im pulling my hair now.

 

[89supra7mgte]

My cats were plugged from the issue of too much fuel what you can do is pull the exhaust downpipe off and start it or just simply remove the o2 sensor and see how that works. if the car revs up then i would recommend pulling the cats off and further inspecting.

 

[87witmoreboost]

Eli, wish you had hit me up about your troubles here. I may be able to keep throwing suggestions.

It wouldn't explain over rich conditions but you may have a bad solder on the RC's. Use a voltmeter to test each to be sure the solder is conducting a signal from harness to injector.

Also, those may not be 550's. They could be bigger. This, however, could be made able to idle with lower fuel pressure, so its unlikely.

It sounds like ingition timing is still a culprit. You DO have to jump the diagnostic port pins to set timing - jumping those pins tells the car to stop trying to adjust it while you are. Maybe you did this. Now, if dowel pins are both in center and cam gears are both showing marks at 12 o'clock when crank is at 0, you can rule out a mechancal issue. At that point it will start and you can adjust the CPS to make it timed really well with the timing light (just did this a week ago with success).

What happened to you talking about fuel smell in some of the intake pipes? There is no reason for any. Fuel gets sprayed in after the intake (in lower intake plenum, directly to head), so there shouldn't be a fuel smell anywhere else. And the line to the AFPR? That uses a pressure source to raise fuel pressure with boost pressure. As boost increases, pressure on the backside of the injector increases. Since 35psi fuel pressure is just 35psi different than atmosphere on the back side of the injector with engine off, at 10psi, your differential is now 25psi. The vac line makes the differential pressure constant - which matters. Now, all that bullshit being said, the vac line is only a vac line and should have NO fuel in it.

Hope you can figure it out soon. Keep asking "what have i changed". Start there. I point the injectors because that motor ran fine before adding those and Lex.

Edit: Oh, and BTW. Clogged cat is really unlikely to be the problem.

 

[Crazybobmundo]

Well mark, the engine never ran before. It was rebuilt, this would have been its first start.
I got the car with a blown engine and a spare block.

The question is more like "what has the previous owner done". I found many hacked wires under the dash with electrical tape. Some with those things that cut through wires to "hardwire" in a new circuit.

I did already jump the diag box. I have checked the engine mechanically... atleast 4 different times. From the build process to now when I suspected the problem to be mechanical.

I have done every single test given in the book to test spark, but I fixed that.

Ive moved the adjustment screw in the AFM in each direction and the engine doesnt operate any different.
The vacuum line I was speaking of before smelled like fuel, same with my pipes but never physically saw liquid.


I havent started it since I removed the exhaust so I cant really update on its operation now. The other thing thats driving me nuts is the previous owner welded the whole exhaust together, PITA in my opinion.



Oh I do have a question. I soldered my injectors according to a thread in here I think its the LEX AFM//550cc Injector upgrade thread. What it didnt state was weather the injectors have polarity.

 

[89supra7mgte]

Fuel gets sprayed in after the intake (in lower intake plenum, directly to head), so there shouldn't be a fuel smell anywhere else. And the line to the AFPR?

The csi is in the upper plenum, given it only works on cold start up for a certain amount of time, if it stays on too long you will smell fuel in intake areas, mainly upper plenum. And most likely in vacuum lines that come off of manifold.

OP: if you have the exhaust off, with atleast the turbo elbow and o2 sensor still installed, i would try and start it, maybe just for a min or two to see if there is any noticeable change minus the loud ass exhaust.

 

[87witmoreboost]

Eli, I would guess there is specific polarity on the injectors. Definitely look into that.

89supra, you are right. The CSI does spray up high there, but would need to be stuck on to really do much.

Read about polarity of injectors to rule that out. It's a definite possibility that would cause all kinds of issues.

 

[MKIIISupraGuy]

Dang man just read all of this, I'd be pulling my hair out too. Here is my take in what might be causing this...and sorry if I misread all the posts but have you pulled the sparkplugs and tried fresh ones ?

 

[Crazybobmundo]

OK so I cranked and "tried" to start it without downpipe back and it acts up the same.

I checked on the polarity of the injectors and according to other posts it doesnt matter.
I checked resistance on the injectors and they are good. All of them 2.25-2.5 ohms.

How would I go about checking power in the plugs though?
Any suggestions? crank it with probes in plugs? turn the cps by hand?

Anyway, I got angry and decided to calibrate my wideband instead and Im getting 20....when it does idle for a few seconds. I have a headache now...

Anyone want to trade for your running engine that isnt haunted?

PS: the spark plugs are new.