No spark (7mgte), no tach movement, smell fuel

[SideWinderGX]

First, I apologize...usually when I make threads I find the answer shortly thereafter through sheer luck or a thread I overlooked. So...meh.

I'll dump all the important facts and skip how/why I found such things, unless they're relevant...and mostly in chronological order:

-changed headgasket over christmas break. upon startup, CPS would konk out after engine warmed up and had code 52.

-installed Shaeff's knock sensor rewire kit
-installed used CPS I bought, tested as well
-tachometer does not move, means no spark. Cranking for 5 sec would result in the tach jumping randomly maybe, 3 times for a split second. Sounds like it was catching.
-can smell fuel
-power to ECU
-NO CODES
-tested used CPS I bought, wired it up incorrectly, fixed wiring this morning. Deutsche connector, wires on CPS are good, resistances check out, gaps are between .2 and .4 mm. Wired new shielded tefzel wire from connector to ECU, new crimped pins. Shield is NOT grounded, correct me if I'm wrong but I am assuming (I know, I know...) that any current in the wire will not effect the CPS pulses.
-Wiring to ECU is good, tested with multimeter, less than an ohm.
-Removed FCON patch harness, just in case.
-Checked AM1, AM2, EFI fuses in engine bay, good. Checked two ignition fuses in kick panel, good. Still smell fuel, no spark.
-Checked that ignitor has 12 V on pin #3 on 6-P connector....10-11 ish V.
-Charged battery (started dying from cranking so much)
-Removed intake/filter/vacuum hoses. AFM and Water temp sensor disconnected. I know it won't run, I want SPARK and I want the tach to register. Adjusting CPS with this stuff in the way is impossible.

As it sits:
-Can smell fuel
-Will catch a third of the time with CPS wired correctly. Tach will not register at all despite the engine catching for that split second. Tach floats slightly when key is turned to on, bobs down when key removed. Doesn't move otherwise.
-Fuses are still good
-No codes, power to ECU



Is it possible the CPS is bad? It looks a bit rusty/dirty compared to the other used one I bought on the forums, I sanded the coil pickup faces and the 24 tooth gear as best I could, didn't make much of a difference. Possible the ignitor is bad,tach signal from the ignitor is bad but I don't see how it could have failed randomly...

 

[spikesnstuff0905]

Triple check your fusible link for alternator. It's inside fuse block under hood. Quadruple check the GAUGE fuse under drivers kick panel. When my fuse blew i was freaking out because my car idled at 0. lol where does your power stop? do you have power to plugs? power to wires? power to coil packs? etc. Also try a fresh battery, yours may not have enough juice even after charging. mine would run my headlights and radio and still couldn't push the starter solenoid out.

 

[SideWinderGX]

Changed out the fusible link for a block fuse a while back, it looked good the few times I was under the hood. I'll check the gauge fuse as well, although the other gauges work and light up.

Going outside now to check if there is power through coil pack harness when ignition is ON. Also going to reassemble intake side because CPS is as good as its going to get, if I have to replace it it'll be next weekend anyways (don't have another).

When dad gets home I'll have him hold the #1 plug wire with a plug in it, ground it and I'll crank the car to see if we have spark (on that coil pack anyways).

edit: Plug wires are a few months old, from Toyota. Haven't changed plugs since I did the headgasket job, they might be fouled out but that doesn't explain no spark/tach not working, not to mention it drove a few times last weekend before I swapped out the CPS yesterday. No oil in #1 spark plug well, looks as clean as when I put everything together.

 

[spikesnstuff0905]

Odd... If your other gauges work i doubt you'll find a burnt fuse, it's something to do directly with the tach signal, and i don't know what that could be. I think it may be directly linked to your lack of spark. hoefully someone who knows what they're talking about will kick down the door to this thread soon.

 

[SideWinderGX]

Did a quick search, gauge fuse works the power windows as well. Windows work.

http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?S=IG&P=12

Should be 12 V between terminal 1 of harness and body ground...there is none. Occasionally my DMM registers .05 or so. Haven't checked the two other plugs.
Wiring looks good although that particular harness is old, one of the clips just broke. Out to check resistances of the rest of the coil packs and harness, and check continuity on the harness (ordering a new one regardless).

I'm thinking ignitor but don't want to put words in anyone's mouth.

another edit: My dad has an old car battery charger/starter here, two selections: charge (gauge on it jumps to 10 amps) and start (gauge jumps up a lot further). Battery shouldn't be a problem and car sounds like its turning over just not firing.

further edit: harness continuity between ignitor and coil pack harness is good. coil pack harness wiring (continuity) is good. There is NO voltage applied to either terminals of the coil pack harness when key is in ON position. This means a) ignitor is bad or b) wiring between ECU and ignitor is bad. Assumption: easiest way to check wiring between ECU and ignitor is to check the wires on the other plug, however I have no idea what wires to check. Off to check the TEWD...

 

[SideWinderGX]

Sonofabitch, I knew it was something simple.

When I rewired the CPS back to the ECU I used the wiring diagram and wrote everything down on a piece of paper. Then, before I connected the CPS connector to the harness connector, I scribbled out two blocks with 4 pins and matched them up. Thing is, I wrote the picture with the intent of looking INTO the connectors...I wired them as if they were side by side. Wires needed to be flipped around.

Found this out when I went to explain to my dad what I did today, showed him the letter and put my foot in my mouth because I knew I fudged up.

Plugged CPS in, set crank pulley to 0 and matched CPS up to G1. tach responds and it sounds like it is firing. Tried to start up but the intake is off so it didn't get very far, but it was trying.

edit: Starts up, idles real low. Throttle has almost no effect, rpm barely goes up. Probably timing. It runs! Thanks guys haha.

 

[spikesnstuff0905]

Good to hear, bro. Timing light?

 

[SideWinderGX]

Yup, dads got an inductive one I was just playing with. Have to move the CPS one tooth over, its at max adjustment and bouncing around 5 BTDC. Revs decent and idles good as it sits so I don't think there's any more problems.

Thankee

 

[spikesnstuff0905]

So you remember what you said about starting threads and then figuring it out immediately after? lol, nice job.

 

[SideWinderGX]

Yes, I've been thinking about that for the past 3 hours, I feel pretty stupid :icon_razz Ah well, at least its fixed. CPS is in the right tooth, I'll fine tune it next weekend in between the re-torque I need to do (warm-up mode had it idling high so it read too retarded when I finally got done installing everything).

 

[shaeff]

Glad you caught it. I was going to say that sounds exactly like a CPS issue, and since you rewired it maybe verify your new wire positions in the new plug(s). When you set the timing, you probably know this but I'll throw it out there anyway, make sure everything's at 0° TDC, CPS set properly, and up to operating temperature with the jumper in t(e)1 and E1 for timing mode, set timing to 10° BTDC, remove jumper, and you should be golden.

 

[SideWinderGX]

Can't ever go wrong with double checking my work it seems haha.

Yup thats what I plan to follow next weekend to set the timing, I didn't have enough time for the car to reach operating temperature though I had to go back to school. Quick test drive next weekend and a double-check of the timing should be all I need before re-torque. Thanks!