No electrical power anywere.

[s383mmber1]

Just put the motor in. 1987 toyota supra, turbo. Turbo harness and ECU.

I have no electrical power what-so-ever anywere.

-1 year old battery, charged. Hooked up my DMM to it and getting 12.86~ V.
-Fusable link is good
-Battery cables are good

Im hungover, clueless, and just want the car going. Trying to get it started tonight.

What else would cause me to have no electrical power anywere, no dash lights, no beeps, no horn, radio, nothing.

Thanks in advance!

William

 

[hvyman]

sounds like your not getting a good connection to the battery. check the grounds. use the dmm and see if you have voltage on the ground side(if you do there not grounded) see if you have voltage on the cables them self.

do your door lights work or the overhead lights?

 

[Mk3runner]

hangovers suck, gatoraid and vitamin.

check main fuse?

 

[DBN]

Like when you turn the key to the "on" position does anything light up? This happened to me when I was driving one day. Could be the wire going from your positive terminal to the fuse box. It popped off on me and left me confused in the middle of the road lol. Good luck.

 

[Mk3runner]

Like when you turn the key to the "on" position does anything light up? This happened to me when I was driving one day. Could be the wire going from your positive terminal to the fuse box. It popped off on me and left me confused in the middle of the road lol. Good luck.

lol. good times.

 

[tlo86]

clean the terminals? double check the lines and fuses....

 

[s383mmber1]

terminal are all clean, all fuses are perfect. No lights whatso ever. its as if there is no battery in the car....

But there is.....

 

[dumbo]

Use your meter and start chasing wires. Sure does sound like the main FL though. But if that checks out, I would start at the battery and go from there...

First things first, grab a beer and nurse that hangover

 

[s383mmber1]

Got a few minutes to look at her this morning. Its very weird.

Swapped battery's with a known working one. Still nothing at all. I took out the positive and negative battery cable and checked them for resistance. Both came out perfect. I took out my fusable link and checked that for resistance and its perfect as well.

I then re-installed them and started to check for were im losing voltage. I put the neg lead of my DVOM on the negative of the battery and started tapping for voltage.

The first place i checked was the (B+) terminal on the starter and i have 0 volts. I dont have a single volt at any connector in the entire car. All fuses are visably good. I tested the main relay and it shows good resistance, but i have no way to check if the switch contacts are closing because i cant hook it up to a 12 V source.

Were do i go from here? What could possible cause this problem. As far as i can tell the volts arnt leaving the battery. Theres gotta be a logical explaination for this oneee

 

[s383mmber1]

I also grounded out the meter and tapped both sides of the fusable link and 0 volts at both sides.

 

[s383mmber1]

. Could be the wire going from your positive terminal to the fuse box.

Wait. What wire are you talking about....?

 

[1987mk3]

yeah i got the same problem and i'm about to give up

 

[hvyman]

get a razor blade and barely go threw the insulation on the wires and check to see if you have 12v.

theres a lil blue wire that goes tot he batt that when it doesnt get a good connection you wont get any power.

 

[DBN]

There should be a wire leading from your positive battery connector to underneath the main fuse box. It's not that big. That thing came off on me and gave me the same thing except I was driving lol. Even if it didn't come off you should go through the insulation to check the wire.

 

[TooGoode]

check your 100A fuse. this is most likely the problem. chances are, you accidentally touched a big power wire to a ground during the swap. same thing happened to me. look closely at it and take off the small clear cover over the fuse. sometimes it gets in the ways and looks like the fuse is good. get back to me after doing so.

 

[dumbo]

In my professional opinion, do NOT go through any insulation to check for voltage. It ruins good wire, or you have to patch it.

Personally I cant do much with out it being in front of me, but just start at the source and take baby steps away from it.

EDIT:

Not sure if this is the exact schematic for your vehichle, but if you have NO power anywhere, theres not a lot it can be.

http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?S=D&P=3

Or this one if your car is originally GTE


Your certain you checked Fuseible Link 2.0L, notice the location in the link below.
http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?S=FI&P=30

 

[TooGoode]

any updates?

 

[EOS]

If you're going to "go through" the wire's insulation to check for voltage, don't trim off some of the insulation with a knife. Instead, use a small straight pin or safety pin to pierce the insulation on the outside of the wire. This gets you down to the metal conductor in the wire, allowing you to test it, but doesn't ruin the insulation; you just end up with a small pinhole in the insulation, rather than a cut. Afterward, you can use a very small piece of electrical tape to cover the pinhole.

I've been using this method for many years and have never had a problem with it. In fact, that's why I have about a half-dozen safety clips pinned around the leads to my DMM.

Hope this helps...
Joe

 

[figgie]

DBN is right.

Check the wire that goes from the + to the fuse block. It is a pretty thick 8 gauge wire (roughly). I seen it that the terminal corrodes and you are left with no positive to the fuse block or even worse. It is shorting out.

 

[tsuper92]

when there's no power in the car,i check the fuseable link first.you say there's no power at the sarter?the positive wire bolt's directly to the starter.maybe the battery ground has a bad connection at the block