new valve cover gaskets, new spark plugs and wires...and...

[phoenix6]

It STILL idles high, and a little rough AND NOW it idles at 1250....

I fixed all my current coolant leaks, new valve cover gaskets with grey RTV to seal the deal, new wires and plugs, and its still givin me shit...
I did look at my cam lobes though, definately need to reshim, parts of them are brown, Im guessing from valve lash? (shims too big)

fuck.

At idle, its smooth but then as it goes through the cycle for a second I feed a little vibration, then smoooth, then vibration, its in a pattern... any ideaS?

Edit: i HAVE NOT reset the ECU today since I redid all these plugs and wires... would this make any difference? Steven was tellin me set my timing to 10, instead of its current 14, reset ECU and give a nice WOT pull to set the MAP.... what do you guys think?

 

[Fletch124]

Reset the ecu and set your timing to 10*.

 

[phoenix6]

Reset the ecu and set your timing to 10*.

Will do, quick question though, when I was setting it b4 to 14, the marker was kind jumpy for a min, between 12 and 15.. then settled down... wtf is that about?

 

[Doward]

Possibly need the change your timing belt/tensioner-spring assembly.

 

[phoenix6]

Possibly need the change your timing belt/tensioner-spring assembly.

oh... yeah... wow I forgot about the spring lol.. its got a good 65K plus miles on it... Ill get on that, is it hard to do without killing myself?

 

[Poodles]

spring is only to put the initial tension on it as the bolt doesn't move...

my guess is that the car wasn't fully warmed up yet... give the car time to learn the map and see if it smooths out (mine always has)

 

[jdub]

You can't set your timing until idle is in spec. Do you have any codes?

Check again for any pirate air leaks...the cold start injector, vac hoses, throttle body is closed, and the ISCV is going to full open at engine shut down. If the throttle body has an adjustment screw, it should be full closed on the 7M. All this assumes the AC is in the off position.

 

[phoenix6]

You can't set your timing until idle is in spec. Do you have any codes?

Check again for any pirate air leaks...the cold start injector, vac hoses, throttle body is closed, and the ISCV is going to full open at engine shut down. If the throttle body has an adjustment screw, it should be full closed on the 7M. All this assumes the AC is in the off position.

I checked my ISCV, it was working fine, no leaks, I was suspecting possibly it screwing up due to all the coolant problems lately (leaks, no overheating)

I did the code 51 test, was fine, the TB is fully closed and AC is off...

Whats this bout the Cold Start Injector? Mines NOT connected, really never has been, the connector from the harness basically ate it, I could cut the wires and reconnect them with custom stuff. I need to take a quick picture for you J, my BVSV has NEVER been working, the vac hoses for that are not connected through, so I just kinda rerouted one of them (from the charcoal tank to the TB, thats where it routed to anyways right? I just made it shorter haha)

dont kill me I didnt do most of the shit wrong with it, Im trying to slowly fix all of it one by one.

Also next sunday, or sometime around then Im hoping to reshim ALL my valves, the noise isnt bad from the valve train but I know they are all off, enough to know it needs to be redone.

 

[jdub]

Air leakage around the CSI gasket where it mounts to the manifold. The CSI can also get crap in it holding it partially open (it's closed when start is complete or power is removed)...this usually results in a rough idle and/or a rich condition. Neither of these is likely in your case.

What is likely is you have air entering the manifold from your BVSV re-route. The BVSC is a temp actuated valve...it opens when coolant temp is above ~129 deg F. Warm the car up and block the vac line going to the TB to see if it drops your idle.

Also check the adjustment screw on the TB (if it has one)...the previous owner may have opened it up for some reason. It should be fully closed.

 

[phoenix6]

Which screw is it exactly? on the TB.

I did spray alot of areas with brake cleaner, nothing happned.

You may be right about the reroute, before I did actually have it plugged with a screw on the end of the hose, I only did this reroute about a week ago. Cars been doin this longer.

 

[jdub]

Not very familiar with the NA, but on the Turbo TB it's opposite the fitting where the PCV hose connects. Not all TB's have one....just the early models. You want to use carb cleaner to check for leaks.

 

[phoenix6]

Not very familiar with the NA, but on the Turbo TB it's opposite the fitting where the PCV hose connects. Not all TB's have one....just the early models.

Alrighty Ill check it out, I have an 86.5 so Im sure its on there.

Im really trying to decide if I should reshim the valves or save up as much as i can for 2 months, buy an engine from Jarco and toss it in..

Ill probably do both haha

 

[phoenix6]

Alright, heres the pictures

This has always been busted, I have NO IDEA what it goes to and if it could be causing any issues...


My reroute for that hose....


My BVSV and Cold Start Injector Switch


BVSV again


See how bad the Cold Start Switch connection is...


OK These last two are what I found last week and went WHOA, ok time to fix this oil problem in here haha, it has since been solved, the RIGHT way.



I know shes not lookin healthy Im trying to make it better, just need some help.

 

[jdub]

That 1st pic is the VTV for the dashpot diaphram...the filter is broken off. Take a look at this:
http://www.cygnusx1.net/supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?Section=EC&Page=8

PM Tubbie...he should be able to fix you up on a BVSV, a CSTS, and connector for it.

 

[phoenix6]

Thank you J, so that VTV is ok?

 

[jdub]

If it's clogged? No.
The filter is there to prevent that. I would test per the TRSM link above (Pg EC-11).

 

[phoenix6]

k thanks, Ill test it tomorrow after work, so its saying on EC-9, to test its working, rev to 3000 and hold it, pinch the line and let off the throttle and idle should be 2000 still?


Forgot to add, what is the purpose of the BVSV and how will fixing the CSIS change my car or what will it fix exactly? Cold start up time?

 

[jdub]

k thanks, Ill test it tomorrow after work, so its saying on EC-9, to test its working, rev to 3000 and hold it, pinch the line and let off the throttle and idle should be 2000 still?

Yes...speed should drop to 2000 rpm with the line pinched. This is checking the Dashpot speed. Step 4 on the next page says rpm should drop to idle when you release the pinch. On EC-11, you check the VTV...if air does not flow from the black to white side freely, it's the same as if you pinch the line

Forgot to add, what is the purpose of the BVSV and how will fixing the CSIS change my car or what will it fix exactly? Cold start up time?

The BVSV is for emissions...it purges the charcoal canister of vapor. The way you have it hooked up is allowing air to the TB freely. If you're not using the BVSV, you need to block that line. The CSI does improve cold start...not a real big deal where you live. If the injector itself is leaking though (due to something holding it partially open), you are adding fuel directly to the manifold.

The 7M EFI works as a system...missing/inop parts can have an effect you don't expect. I'm a firm believer in keeping everything on the motor working properly if you are still using the stock ECU. After market EMS...different story.

Keep in mind, you're going through an elimination process here

 

[phoenix6]

Yup, alright well I pm'd tubbie and Im working on getting it all fixed properly. Thanks again for the help, Ill post up anything else as I think of it.