I'm looking at getting a new ignition to replace and upgrade the 21 year old stocker, and know nothing about what I'm looking for. What would be a good ignition that's easy to install and is reliable?
New ignition what to go with?
- Thread starter turbo87targa
- Start date
think in my lack of knowledge I incorrectly labeled what I'm looking for lol.
I'm looking for that thingy I plug my key in to turn the car on lol. It's old and worn, I can pull the key out while the car is running, and it takes an act of god for the car to turn over.
I'm looking for that thingy I plug my key in to turn the car on lol. It's old and worn, I can pull the key out while the car is running, and it takes an act of god for the car to turn over.
I think its called a key cylinder kit. your not replacing the entire ignition, just the part that locks. Ur only gonna find that at the dealership or a junkyard, and the one at the junkyards gonna be just that, junk like yours (no offense) and the dealership one isnt gonna be the cheapest. I had to do this in my dads 96 tacoma. if its anything like the taco, its an easy thing to do. check a repair manual or inquire at dealership for tips on getting it out. also you may want to replace your door and trunk locks or you will need 2 separate keys. you could have the dealer or a locksmith rekey the key cylinder to match your key, but my guess is your key is worn out too.
Let me know how it turns out cuz i may need to do it too.
Let me know how it turns out cuz i may need to do it too.
turbo87targa;1147262 said:
You are talking about the lock cylinder set from Toyota
http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/EPC/291410/catalog.aspx?F=6712&P=1
That EPC is dated so those part numbers should have changed (sometimes they haven't but assume they have).
Will a new lock cylinder also help the car with turning over? That's the main reason I want to replace the part. I can live with the key coming out but I hate that it takes forever to start it.
nope
the motor turning is a function of the lock. The motor strating is a function of the EFI system.
the motor turning is a function of the lock. The motor strating is a function of the EFI system.
I pulled some codes today and got 12, 24, and 51. I have no ac so 24 confuses me but other than changing my plugs and wires (both pretty old) I'm at a loss for why it won't turn over.
turbo87targa;1148228 said:
not for anything but what is 12 & 51?
The car gives those codes because there is something WRONG.
12 rpm signal: distributor, or cps, starter signal circuit
24 intake air temp sensor signal: intake air temp sensor circuit, intake air temp sensor
51 switch signal: ac switch signal, ac switch, ac amplifier, tps circuit, tps
I have no ac so 51 (said 24 by mistake) is confusing.
I have 2 sets of coil packs, neither helps it start.
Would any of those prevent it from turning over? Cranks and cranks but won't turn over
24 intake air temp sensor signal: intake air temp sensor circuit, intake air temp sensor
51 switch signal: ac switch signal, ac switch, ac amplifier, tps circuit, tps
I have no ac so 51 (said 24 by mistake) is confusing.
I have 2 sets of coil packs, neither helps it start.
Would any of those prevent it from turning over? Cranks and cranks but won't turn over
Yea but my tps has not been touched since I got it fixed 5 months ago.
Can your timing go off without the car running? I'm pretty sure it was right on when I last drove the car (about 2 months ago) but maybe it jumped a little somehow?
Can your timing go off without the car running? I'm pretty sure it was right on when I last drove the car (about 2 months ago) but maybe it jumped a little somehow?
turbo87targa;1148977 said:
That does not matter.
It is held in place by screws and as such means that the TPS can move out of alignment. You will need to re-adjust the TPS via the TSRM.
Don't you get 51 if you hit the gas pedal while checking codes?
Code 12 = ECU not getting a timing signal from the CPS. Check the wires (this is typical).
Code 24 = bad AFM or connection to the AFM as the temp sensor is in there.
Code 12 = ECU not getting a timing signal from the CPS. Check the wires (this is typical).
Code 24 = bad AFM or connection to the AFM as the temp sensor is in there.
I think I need to wait a little before acting on these codes as it very likely may just b my wire harnes. I'll replace that frankenstien thing before I look to closely at $700 afms and such lol. I'm just going to tear down the motor since I need to do a rear main job aswell, get it all done now so it's done with ( pistons, rods, bearings, whole bottom end built) and I'll just grab a harness from champion before I drop it back in ( PITA!! I hate wireing!!! )