New dyno numbers.................

[suprahero]

Thanks IJ, I thought you had abandoned me. I was going to order an ebc, but couldn't decide which one to get. The avcr is just huge like my afcII, I didn't know if I had enough room to install it.

Does that open the wastegate when the spring loses tension. Maybe it makes it cracked open a little. Would you mind elaborating?................:dunno:

 

[suprahero]

I was told that the Greddy Prof B is a good ebc. I know you like the avcr that you've installed, but I don't know if I need that many functions like you do. You're running a rocket ship and I've got a cropduster.......................

 

[IJ.]

SH: Sorry for my short PM earlier I was totally wiped out as I skipped lunch today and worked right through!

1st it depends on where the WG actuator hose is plumbed in, if it's into the Plenum your 14psi spring could very well let it peak at 18psi!
(to get 14 would need very little preload on the spring and plumbed into the Compressor discharge right after the snail)

What happens is the turbo comes on boost and at 1psi the gate unseats a tiny amount slowing spool (most people run some preload to stop it happening so soon but it only delays it) and so on up till the WG opens fully slowing the turbo shaft speed at your target.

The EBC plumbs in between all this and doesn't let any pressure through until it reaches the target so you get much more boost down low!

This can cause traction problems but units like the avcr let you rune around it!

Have a look at the shape of my curve and you can see it all happening as I describe!

365kw/490hp uncorrected

 

[suprahero]

That's what my older dyno showed. But the only diffence I've made other than the manual transmission is the DDP. When I dynod at 317 I had a curve that went almost straight up like yours. Now It's more like a straight line gradually going up.

Of course it goes without saying that I didn't understand half of what you typed, but it sounds like I need an ebc. At least if I get the avcr, I can ask you questions and have you dumb down the answers so I can relate............lol

 

[suprahero]

Anyone else had any problems with their turbo creeping past their set boost limit. What did you do to fix it? Could my ddp cause my car to lose it's kick. Does the turbo need a certain amount of backpressure? I know everyone loves the ddp, but my car ran good with just the HKS downpipe. I don't know if it's just a coincidense or not, but I'm grasping at straws............lol

 

[IJ.]

SH: Where does the WG gets it's pressure signal from?
(Turbo or intake?)

 

[suprahero]

IJ, I'm sure everyone will get a kick out of this. The only thing I can tell you is the turbo has a small hose that goes from the turbo to the wastegate actuator. That's all I can tell you.

I guess the answer to your question would be the turbo. If that doesn't sound right, let me know...................:dunno:

 

[MKIIINA]

nope that sounds about right on the plumbing side if theres no ebc. you can get a hks evc for around 200 and they work wonders. you might have damaged the diaphram with even the short bursts on the compressor. it also sounds like you may be having a boost creep issue if you have a wg that is set for 14psi and you are doing 18 there is something to look at there.

 

[IJ.]

SH: LOL 100% correct that's what I asked!

Next thing to check is that there isn't a ton of preload on the wastegate!

 

[Clifton]

Clifton, I have a Garrett to4e with o trim .50..........I guess that's how you would put it. Brian at BNR turbos told me I had a 50 trim with o trim turbine. I'm not a turbo expert nor do I play one on T.V............lol

Don't know what the hotside a/r is but I ran an O trim with a .70 on my 7M. Full boost well under 4k. It sounds to me like the WG might not be seating fully. I'm not familiar with alot of WG's but I know the 35mm ones have a sealing ring thaty centers the valve to. If you are running a WG with this, does it have a small groove in the flange were the valve is? Was the sealing ring in it? An exhaust leak pre turbo will obviously kill spool too. another thought. A P trim turbine housing can be bolted up with an O trim wheel. It will also kill spool. You could check the outlet without pulling the turbo. There would be an 1/8-3/16" gap between the wheel and housing were an O trim housing will be nearly touching.

 

[suprahero]

Thanks to everyone for their continued help. I was noticing today coming home from a golf tournament that it spools pretty quick when I'm on the highway. The car feels really strong in fourth and fifth. I noticed that my wastegate opens and get's really loud because of my DDP at 6 psi. Should my wastegate be opening so soon with a 14 pound spring? This is what I've been wondering about. I know it's suppose to open a little before the 14 psi, but should it open at 6 psi?

Clifton, I have read your post three times, and I'm still not sure I understand it. Are you saying that I should take off my accordian hose and look where the wheel is from the turbo side? Or, are you saying I should be looking between the turbo and the turbine? I apologize for making it hard for you to explain, but I am just about turbo illiterate. I know which side the air is going in and coming out of, but that's as far as I go................lol

 

[IJ.]

SH: This is the behaviour I was talking about earlier!

6psi sounds a little late though so I suspect the WG has some preload that's giving you the 18psi on the top end!

 

[suprahero]

IJ, You make it sound bad.............What should I do to fix it? What can I do to fix it? This may not have anything to do with anything, but when she cools off I was going to go out there and splice the hose that goes from the turbo to the wgactuator, then put about a six inch piece of hose on there and just let it hang. Actually it will be a T, the the small section will just be hanging to see if I can trick the wastegate into not opening so soon. When I had my white 91 five speed TTT, I took it to Turbo Specialties and that's what he did to get me more boost. If it doesn't work then I will just put it back the way it is now. No harm, no foul............unless I blow something up...........

 

[suprahero]

SH: This is the behaviour I was talking about earlier!

6psi sounds a little late though so I suspect the WG has some preload that's giving you the 18psi on the top end!

IJ, by behavior, are you talking about my behavior or my turbo's? Hopefully my turbo's, cause I try to be on my best behavior at all times. Unless no one is watching and then I do really mean things to kids that can't fight back. And old people.................I'll trip and old guy in a second if no one is watching..............

 

[IJ.]

NO NO NO!!!!!!!!

and again NO!

While this will slow down the opening it will add to the top end boost and you risk flushing the motor!

As I said it's normal for them to open early but yours actually opens later than normal.

The only "safe" way to prevent it opening early is with a controller.

If it were me I'd remove any preload ie: Back off the adjuster nut/bolt on an ext WG or lengthen the rod on an Internal and get it so it peaks at 14 psi then add a controller to fix the bottom end.

 

[Clifton]

Clifton, I have read your post three times, and I'm still not sure I understand it. Are you saying that I should take off my accordian hose and look where the wheel is from the turbo side? Or, are you saying I should be looking between the turbo and the turbine? I apologize for making it hard for you to explain, but I am just about turbo illiterate. I know which side the air is going in and coming out of, but that's as far as I go................lol

Chances are it's not this but if everything else checks out.

Should look like this
O trim O housing

Not like this
O trim P housing

 

[suprahero]

NO NO NO!!!!!!!!

and again NO!

While this will slow down the opening it will add to the top end boost and you risk flushing the motor!

As I said it's normal for them to open early but yours actually opens later than normal.

The only "safe" way to prevent it opening early is with a controller.

If it were me I'd remove any preload ie: Back off the adjuster nut/bolt on an ext WG or lengthen the rod on an Internal and get it so it peaks at 14 psi then add a controller to fix the bottom end.

O.K. IJ, I think you're trying to tell me not to do what I had inteded to do.......I'm just kidding, it really wasn't that subtle..........lol
I will buy a boost controller and hopefully that will fix everything. Again, my car runs great, it just doesn't feel like I'm getting 406 hp. I really appreciate your concern and help. I promise not to blow anything up tonight when I go to the track. I will probably make three passes, beat three mustangs and then go home..............lol

 

[IJ.]

<subliminal message> CHECK THE PRELOAD

 

[suprahero]

Clifton, I can tell you without going out there and looking that mine looks more like the first one. My trim and housing match up. Now that you showed me the pictures your post makes all the sense in the world. I guess I just need pictures like a five year old. I really appreciate yours, IJ's, and everyone elses help that you've given me. Hopefully one day I'll be able to return the favor somehow...............lol

 

[suprahero]

IJ, I think my actuator arm is threaded so that I can adjust it. I should thread it so that it is longer. I will try and take my accordian hose and other thing off tomorrow and lengthen it to see if that helps. If not I will go the other way.

As usual you have been a big help.................:bowdown: