it would be a good idea to replace the flywheel bolts to ARPs and also replace the rear main seal. the pilot bearing is also a must but should be already included with the flywheel.
ed.d.
ed.d.
New clutch time
- Thread starter Supratrbox2
- Start date
You might as well replace the throw-out bearing, and all of the hub and bearing washers while you're at it too. Everything's like <$100.
annoyingrob;1062225 said:
these come with almost every clutch kit sold.
what did you fianaly decide to do?
Im sorta broke and unemployed at the moment so things havent worked out as planned. I must pay my insurance,reg and buy a new sticker ($150!) first so the car stays legal, then I can take care of my problems. Most likely lookin at the hybrid setup or somthing like that. My car has maybe 300hp and the only big upgrade ive considered gettin is cams so my hp goal has been around400hp give or take a few.
Supratrbox2;1068668 said:
I suggest you have a read through this site and reconsider your upgrade path...
Why? I have all the basics, +440's and map on the side w/ a blitz rom. So if im correct with all that, a piggyback or standalone for fuel, boost and such and the cams with proper tuning I should be near my mark if not on it. My whole idea is that any upgrades I buy will still compliment a aftermarket turbo once that goes bad. I hate spending money when I dont need to.
Got the funds and ready for a clutch. Just need to figure which to get. Stock or the hybrid? I'm probably at the 300hp mark and will most likely stay that way for a while since my other project has been begging for some attention.
Make sure you lockthight your bolts....the failure that could happen if you don't is nothing short of epic....think bolts breaking and sending you new fancy clutch through your bellhousing.
suprahero;1047017 said:
+1
I got the same clutch and it's been great.
CK: think he was talking about the washers and clips that hold everything together. If they fail you have to drop the tranny
Poodles;1112115 said:+1
I got the same clutch and it's been great.
CK: think he was talking about the washers and clips that hold everything together. If they fail you have to drop the tranny
+1 more, thats what I have in the Z along with an aluminum flywheel and I love it in the lighter car. I cant really say I would love the lighter flywheel in my MKIII for the street. Now on the track thats a different story, but there are a few more things I need on the MKIII before I consider an aluminum flywheel.
BTW Im referring to the DM clutch and flywheel.
Thats a nice kit but I dont think my hp level needs a "stage 3". Ive heard 6 pucks chatter to. My car is my DD so im banging gears all day. I would just like something better than stock thats good to around 400hp if I need the extra hold later on.
Like already mentioned, mine doesn't chatter... It shudders a bit if I try to just move around with the clutch pedal without giving it gas, but give it some gas and it's gone.
I can hold my car on a hill with just clutch and gas (and I don't mean rocking back and forth), so it's definately streetable once you learn it...
I can hold my car on a hill with just clutch and gas (and I don't mean rocking back and forth), so it's definately streetable once you learn it...
Supratrbox2;1121824 said:
act with a full face disk and a hd pressure plate would work :icon_bigg
Wanted to chime in that I have a light weight 1pc driveshaft, and I love it. The car used to feel like a pig when getting off the line, but now it feels like it doesn't weigh a thing. Getting the wheels moving is so much easier.
Thanks for the info on the lightweight flywheels too. I was thinking about getting one since my engine is out, but I don't want to do any mods that have big compromises. I'm trying to keep the car 100% streetable and easy to drive.
Collin
Thanks for the info on the lightweight flywheels too. I was thinking about getting one since my engine is out, but I don't want to do any mods that have big compromises. I'm trying to keep the car 100% streetable and easy to drive.
Collin