New 7M Build....
- Thread starter IBoughtASupra
- Start date
How Do You Guys Block Off The EGR Port On The Side Of The Block? What Is The Simplest Way?
By The Way, I Have A JDM ECU, Purple Sticker.
By The Way, I Have A JDM ECU, Purple Sticker.
umm i think they have a EGR block off plate? correct me if i am wrong!! nice work looks good keep it up!
The block off plates work towards the side of the head for the EGR? Where do I get a block off plate for that side? Thanks.
Ok, I Had A Intake Leak And That Was Fixed. A New Gasket Helped.
New Problem
The Car Idles At Midway Betweeen 0-1,000RPM. Then It Starts To Rise A Little Bit Below The 1,500RPM Mark And Then Drops. Then It Keeps Doing That. The Car Has No Exhaust, Just A DownPipe And The Wastegate But The Nipple Is Not Installed On The WasteGate. That Will Get Installed Tomorrow Since I Have To Drill And Thread A Hole On The OutLet Pipe Of The Turbo For A Nipple. Right Now, The Car Has No Air Filter On, Just A Mesh.
What Do You Guys Think Is The Problem? I Don't Have Any Vacuum Leaks Because I Smoke Tested It. Ask Any Questions You Have. Thanks, Andy.
New Problem
The Car Idles At Midway Betweeen 0-1,000RPM. Then It Starts To Rise A Little Bit Below The 1,500RPM Mark And Then Drops. Then It Keeps Doing That. The Car Has No Exhaust, Just A DownPipe And The Wastegate But The Nipple Is Not Installed On The WasteGate. That Will Get Installed Tomorrow Since I Have To Drill And Thread A Hole On The OutLet Pipe Of The Turbo For A Nipple. Right Now, The Car Has No Air Filter On, Just A Mesh.
What Do You Guys Think Is The Problem? I Don't Have Any Vacuum Leaks Because I Smoke Tested It. Ask Any Questions You Have. Thanks, Andy.
Okay, A Next Problem.
The Car Idles High, 1,100 RPM, And Then It Will Start To Get Warm And The Idle Will Drop. Then It Starts To Move Between 500-1,000 RPM And Then Eventually Tries Not To Die, But It Does.
I Am Getting Code 32 And Code 51 With The A/C Off.
I Looked At Code 51 And It Is The TPS.
How do I fix this? I know it has to do with calibrating the TPS but could this be caused by a broken wire? How do I calibrate the TPS? how do I know if the TPS is out of spec? Any suggestions? This is what is stopping me from driving my car. :1zhelp::nono::dunno:Thanks, Andy.
The Car Idles High, 1,100 RPM, And Then It Will Start To Get Warm And The Idle Will Drop. Then It Starts To Move Between 500-1,000 RPM And Then Eventually Tries Not To Die, But It Does.
I Am Getting Code 32 And Code 51 With The A/C Off.
I Looked At Code 51 And It Is The TPS.
How do I fix this? I know it has to do with calibrating the TPS but could this be caused by a broken wire? How do I calibrate the TPS? how do I know if the TPS is out of spec? Any suggestions? This is what is stopping me from driving my car. :1zhelp::nono::dunno:Thanks, Andy.
I am pretty sure from reading elsewhere on here you NEED a filter on the lex afm or the car doesnt idle properly.
It pulls the air too freely. Try placing a filter on just to test.
It pulls the air too freely. Try placing a filter on just to test.
So, here is the story. I started this build thread and I was enjoing this build. I built the bottom end with it being cut ten thou and having new bearings, mains, rods and thrust.
I sent the head to a machine shop that my Dad used for our shop and that was all fine. We got back the head and everything seemed fine and I did not check it since we paid 800 for a rebuild and three angle valve job.
So we assembled the engine and then it was off to starting it. We had a few issues with vaccum leaks and codes, mainly code 51. After those problems were fixed, the car would not idle, it would keep moving up and down between 500RPM and 1000RPM and then eventually stall out. We even cleaned and tried a different idle valve and it did not help either.
There was a rattle in the head like a bunch of marbles were loose, so I did my research on here, getting flamed a lot, since I was just learning these things for myself and helping a mechanic build my engine. So now I was learning what the shims were. With the help of my mechanic, I took a fresh head of a new Supra(More On That Just Now) we bought and went to work. I took the head to a different machine shop to only have it checked for straightness, decked and hot tanked.
After that, I bought a Saftey Gasket set and then I replaced the valve seals, seated the valves, check for leaks with gas in the ports and then did the clearance. I bought the shims from GoodSon Engine Builders and used the Excel worksheet that was on the forums(Thanks To Who Made That) to calculate the new shim sizes. I had to grind some of the shims I bought as well. I made all the clearances back to factory specs, eight thou and ten thou on the intake and exhaust sides.
I bought a new Supra, a Red 1989 Targa Top Turbo Supra. This car was so clean and I got it from the guy for $1,400. He got it for a birthday present and then I got it for my birthday present. The engine siezed up and he had it covered in his backyard for two years until I bought it. The car's paint is in excellent condition as well as for the interior. The stock tape player is still in there!
After that we put together a new engine, honed with new rings and bearings, and with the head built buy me, we started everything up this past Saturday and it is running, but I did not have in a few vaccum lines and the line for the idle control valve, so it did not idle. We just wanted to start it and hear for any knocks and rattles. None!
Pictures:
WHAT IS THIS PLUG FOR UNDER THE FUSE BOX?
WHAT IS THIS PLUG FOR UNDER THE DASH? ALL THE PLUGS ARE PLUGGED INTO THE HARNESS THOUGH.
The only thing that I am left to do is get the radiator and fan shroud kit from Grimta, reposition my turbo, and then run all the vaccum lines. Then install some small parts like stainless steel hoses from DriftMotion for the clutch line.
Things To Do:
-Install Radiator And Fan Kit
-Install Full Flow Oil System
-Install Clutch Hose
-Install Intercooler Piping And Reposition The Turbo, Make New Turbing For That
-Install Vaccum Hoses For The Engine/Wastegate/Gauges
-Install Gauges
-Break In
TEST DRIVE!
Pictures Of The Car, The Hood Was Open In Those Two Pictures.
I sent the head to a machine shop that my Dad used for our shop and that was all fine. We got back the head and everything seemed fine and I did not check it since we paid 800 for a rebuild and three angle valve job.
So we assembled the engine and then it was off to starting it. We had a few issues with vaccum leaks and codes, mainly code 51. After those problems were fixed, the car would not idle, it would keep moving up and down between 500RPM and 1000RPM and then eventually stall out. We even cleaned and tried a different idle valve and it did not help either.
There was a rattle in the head like a bunch of marbles were loose, so I did my research on here, getting flamed a lot, since I was just learning these things for myself and helping a mechanic build my engine. So now I was learning what the shims were. With the help of my mechanic, I took a fresh head of a new Supra(More On That Just Now) we bought and went to work. I took the head to a different machine shop to only have it checked for straightness, decked and hot tanked.
After that, I bought a Saftey Gasket set and then I replaced the valve seals, seated the valves, check for leaks with gas in the ports and then did the clearance. I bought the shims from GoodSon Engine Builders and used the Excel worksheet that was on the forums(Thanks To Who Made That) to calculate the new shim sizes. I had to grind some of the shims I bought as well. I made all the clearances back to factory specs, eight thou and ten thou on the intake and exhaust sides.
I bought a new Supra, a Red 1989 Targa Top Turbo Supra. This car was so clean and I got it from the guy for $1,400. He got it for a birthday present and then I got it for my birthday present. The engine siezed up and he had it covered in his backyard for two years until I bought it. The car's paint is in excellent condition as well as for the interior. The stock tape player is still in there!
After that we put together a new engine, honed with new rings and bearings, and with the head built buy me, we started everything up this past Saturday and it is running, but I did not have in a few vaccum lines and the line for the idle control valve, so it did not idle. We just wanted to start it and hear for any knocks and rattles. None!
Pictures:
WHAT IS THIS PLUG FOR UNDER THE FUSE BOX?
WHAT IS THIS PLUG FOR UNDER THE DASH? ALL THE PLUGS ARE PLUGGED INTO THE HARNESS THOUGH.
The only thing that I am left to do is get the radiator and fan shroud kit from Grimta, reposition my turbo, and then run all the vaccum lines. Then install some small parts like stainless steel hoses from DriftMotion for the clutch line.
Things To Do:
-Install Radiator And Fan Kit
-Install Full Flow Oil System
-Install Clutch Hose
-Install Intercooler Piping And Reposition The Turbo, Make New Turbing For That
-Install Vaccum Hoses For The Engine/Wastegate/Gauges
-Install Gauges
-Break In
TEST DRIVE!
Pictures Of The Car, The Hood Was Open In Those Two Pictures.
Red Wheels Are Nice....:-/ The pervious owner had them powder coated.
I am waiting on my bank to transfer funds to my Paypal account to get a radiator from Grimsta.
A question for you guys, where do you think this ECU came from. When I bought my first white Supra, the guy just said to take it.
Here is a picture of it.
More pictures will come tomorrow when I take my turbo's front cover to the machine shop to get the threads helicoiled since one stripped. Then reclock and see how to make new intercooler piping.
I am waiting on my bank to transfer funds to my Paypal account to get a radiator from Grimsta.
A question for you guys, where do you think this ECU came from. When I bought my first white Supra, the guy just said to take it.
Here is a picture of it.
More pictures will come tomorrow when I take my turbo's front cover to the machine shop to get the threads helicoiled since one stripped. Then reclock and see how to make new intercooler piping.
that appears to be an upgraded ECU by Reg Reimer (I think thats the name), one of the original MKIII tuners. It will have an upgraded/upgradable chip in it with new fuel/spark/etc.
5 seconds on google: http://www.monsterhorsepower.com/
contact them for details
5 seconds on google: http://www.monsterhorsepower.com/
contact them for details
Well it makes no sense because my car is an 1989 Grey Plug. Paypal is taking so long to get my money to transfer. I am going to be taking my turbo's front cover to the machine shop tomorrow to have the front cover helicoiled. School start next week but hopefully I can get my radiator in and start mounting my intercooler piping.
so you have the same bottem end from before? Probe Pistons and eagle rods, You just change the rings and bearings again? for what? where they even finish breaking in when it was in the first shell?
Also before in a previous post i read that you wanted to start and idle the car for 3hrs so everything is dry before you drive and that your going to drive it like a senior citizen.
THAT IS NOT THE PROPER WAY TO BREAK IN A MOTOR.
The piston rings need to see both boost and vacuum alot within the first moments of startup. Best way to do this is start it up, check for leaks, good oil pressure etc, then take it on the highway. Do a few 2nd-3rd and 4th gear pulls, part throttle build 5 or so lbs off boost then let off and let the engine brake it self down still in gear back down to 3rd then to 2nd, and do that about 10 times. That method u see both boost and alot of vacuum.
Of course change your oil early tho, after first 10 minutes startup, first 100 miles, first 1000miles, then 3000 etc. Thats the way i broke in my motor and what majority of ppl on supramania instructed me to do when i was doing my rebuild.
Also before in a previous post i read that you wanted to start and idle the car for 3hrs so everything is dry before you drive and that your going to drive it like a senior citizen.
THAT IS NOT THE PROPER WAY TO BREAK IN A MOTOR.
The piston rings need to see both boost and vacuum alot within the first moments of startup. Best way to do this is start it up, check for leaks, good oil pressure etc, then take it on the highway. Do a few 2nd-3rd and 4th gear pulls, part throttle build 5 or so lbs off boost then let off and let the engine brake it self down still in gear back down to 3rd then to 2nd, and do that about 10 times. That method u see both boost and alot of vacuum.
Of course change your oil early tho, after first 10 minutes startup, first 100 miles, first 1000miles, then 3000 etc. Thats the way i broke in my motor and what majority of ppl on supramania instructed me to do when i was doing my rebuild.
Same bottom end as before. We sold my first engine in a different shell after I fixed the shims what the machine shop messed up.
I just wanted to have the car idle and make sure everything runs right. I am not going to do any pulls until I am finished upgrading everything I want. Oil system to a full flow and cooling system with electric fans hooked up properly, not what all these little kids do with the Maxima fans and hook them up to run constantly.
I changed the rings because I just hate reusing old parts when they are cheap. Pistons and rods, sure, I will reuse them but not rings when they are cheap. It is just how I am, very meticulous.
I just wanted to have the car idle and make sure everything runs right. I am not going to do any pulls until I am finished upgrading everything I want. Oil system to a full flow and cooling system with electric fans hooked up properly, not what all these little kids do with the Maxima fans and hook them up to run constantly.
I changed the rings because I just hate reusing old parts when they are cheap. Pistons and rods, sure, I will reuse them but not rings when they are cheap. It is just how I am, very meticulous.
dam bro so you sold your first built motor and built up another one? same piston and rod combo?
Also i've heard and seen good and bad things with the electric fans, just make sure the ones you get flow motor than the stock fan does at full tilt. One thing about the stock fan is that as the faster u rev, the faster it spins, where electric is just one speed, But as long as it flows more than stock, you'll be ight.
Also i've heard and seen good and bad things with the electric fans, just make sure the ones you get flow motor than the stock fan does at full tilt. One thing about the stock fan is that as the faster u rev, the faster it spins, where electric is just one speed, But as long as it flows more than stock, you'll be ight.
Yeap. Same piston and rod combo but this time we are going to do the oil and cooling system.
I am running two 1250CFM fans that will come on based on the temperature of the engine. Basically, a fan controller because I hate seeing people who run fans constantly. What is the point of running the fans when there is no coolant in the radiator when you just started the engine.
My Tanabe Touring exhaust is super quiet. I wrapped it in heat wrap and with the tubular manifold and that exhaust, everyone has asked before seeing the engine, if it was a 1J or 2J. LOL! Very funny. I have not got one 7M guess yet.
I am running two 1250CFM fans that will come on based on the temperature of the engine. Basically, a fan controller because I hate seeing people who run fans constantly. What is the point of running the fans when there is no coolant in the radiator when you just started the engine.
My Tanabe Touring exhaust is super quiet. I wrapped it in heat wrap and with the tubular manifold and that exhaust, everyone has asked before seeing the engine, if it was a 1J or 2J. LOL! Very funny. I have not got one 7M guess yet.
IBoughtASupra;1495992 said:
get used to it, everytime im at the drag strip at e-town before they ask anything they say what i have in it, 2j 2j? lol nobody believes in the 7m anymore, its time to show them what it can do lol