negative Rear Camber after Lowering???

mk3dude

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Hi i own a 87 supra turbo it has koni yellow shocks as well as H&R lowering springs. the issue i am having is when i go to get my car aligned the front was adjusted according to spec but the rear camber was maxed out!! i was wondering how much negative camber is safe to have. currently it has negative camber of around 1.7. do you guy have any suggestions other than the adjustable upper control arms? any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thank You
 

jdub

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mk3dude;1303783 said:
Thank You for the quick reply

I did not really want to go the A1 route. so welding extensions? sounds interesting has this been done before by anyone?

IJ did it.

Is the 1.7 what's shown on the cam or is that inches?

The rear spec is -45' +/- 30'. So the car is set-up for some neg camber already...it helps in the corners. If anything, you will get wear on the inside tire edge.
 

mk3dude

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jdub;1303788 said:
IJ did it.

Is the 1.7 what's shown on the cam or is that inches?

The rear spec is -45' +/- 30'. So the car is set-up for some neg camber already...it helps in the corners. If anything, you will get wear on the inside tire edge.

I'm not too sure since that's what showed up on the machine... i can probably find out from the shop tomorrow.
 

jdub

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Could be in degrees too. If that's the case, it's not that far off from stock (1.25 deg max neg).
 

mk3dude

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jdub;1303819 said:
Could be in degrees too. If that's the case, it's not that far off from stock (1.25 deg max neg).

would i still see quite a bit of inner tire ware quickly? because i will be running 17x9 in the rear or should i not worry about it too much?

Thank You
 

jdub

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That's going to depend on your driving style...if you like to corner hard or take sweeping turns on the fast side, you will see less wear. Tire width and profile has an effect...you will probably see some increased wear, but I don't think it will be excessive.

Maybe Nate will chime back in with how his tires are holding up.
 

IJ.

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I got another pair of lower transverse arms cut my stock ones on a 45 degree angle then cut the spares on the same angle leaving an axtra 15mm on the short ends then welded them back together, this puts my cams back in the middle of their adjustment range.

With stock arms you can either have Camber or Toe correct but not both or you can half ass both and end up with a car that won't turn in easily and wears the tires badly.
 

kwnate

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None of your fucking business
I had to run more negative camber to make the toe correct and then match it on both sides. The tires will suffer, but a set of tires last me a long time even when I burn them off. I don't drive them but on nice weekends. Before the alignment i was at -3.4 on one side :aigo:

If its a daily commuter you should probably get some adjustable arms, otherwise just buy tires as you need them. :dunno:
 

mk3dude

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IJ.;1303879 said:
I got another pair of lower transverse arms cut my stock ones on a 45 degree angle then cut the spares on the same angle leaving an axtra 15mm on the short ends then welded them back together, this puts my cams back in the middle of their adjustment range.

With stock arms you can either have Camber or Toe correct but not both or you can half ass both and end up with a car that won't turn in easily and wears the tires badly.


I do have a pair of extra transverse arms but i am a bit confused as to why you would use two of them and cut it at a 45 degree angle? would it be the same if i cut out 14mm equal to around one hole (as shown in the pictures below) and and the joined them back together? and i was also wondering if i should get this done at a machine shop or could any welding shop do it?

Thank You again for all your help:icon_bigg

p1304193_1.jpg


p1304193_2.jpg
 

IJ.

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Dude: Sorry for the confusion, the cut is on the side then when you weld the 2 pieces together you end up with 15mm longer eye to eye measurement and the 45 degree weld is much stronger.

reassembly18a.jpg
 

mk3dude

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IJ.;1304396 said:
Dude: Sorry for the confusion, the cut is on the side then when you weld the 2 pieces together you end up with 15mm longer eye to eye measurement and the 45 degree weld is much stronger.

reassembly18a.jpg

Thank you for the clarification :icon_bigg would i still be able to do it the way i suggested since i do not want to take the arms which are on the car rite now since they have quite a bit of rust on them? and in order to make a straight weld much stronger i could probably get the welder to weld two pieces of metal on each side as support. and since i need to bring it back like 1.7 degrees do you think cutting out one of those holes = 14mm get my camber into spec? let me know what you think.

Thank You
 

mk3dude

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IJ.;1304473 said:
You have to make the arms longer not shorter ;)

lol I'm so sorry i'm confused again maybe i am thinking of this the wrong way i apologize. my understanding was that my tires are currently sitting in this position / (if you think of this to be the left wheel) hence wearing out the inside wall. so my understanding was by shortening the arm it will enable me to pull the wheel back in to spec because currently the way it sits the adjustment screw is maxed out. :1zhelp:
 

mk3dude

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IJ.;1304494 said:
When you align the rear of these cars you're moving Toe and Camber so trust me on this it's +15mm to get the adjuster cams back in the middle.

p1305795_1.jpg


p1305795_2.jpg


I got around to getting the cambers extended 15mm :naughty: I will be taking the car to the shop on Wednesday so hopefully everything works out. i will let you guys know on the progress. again thank you for all the help.