Need Some Part Reviews/Suggestions

[NDBoost]

I've got the start of rod knock and im going to need to start planning my rebuild parts/costs list.

1.) Im not sure if i should go with TOGA bearings or Clevite bearings, should i wait to buy the bearings until i have the crank inspected and machined?

2.) Piston Rings, what kind of rings should i get, will stock be fine? How do i know if rings are shot, other then doing a compression test and as asked above, should i wait to buy rings until the block is tested/machined?

3.) what is the "technical term" for lapping the mating surface of the block, when i mentioned it to a local machine shop they didnt know what i meant. What was the proper RA that was recommended for a MHG?

Any info would help, Thanks guys

 

[7M-GTE]

3.) what is the "technical term" for lapping the mating surface of the block, when i mentioned it to a local machine shop they didnt know what i meant. What was the proper RA that was recommended for a MHG?

Any info would help, Thanks guys

wouldn't it be milling the block? I'm not sure though...

 

[NDBoost]

bump can anyone answer questions 1 & 2?

 

[bigboostedmk3]

Hey I dont know about you but I am in the process off rebuilding my 7M as well and as far as the bearings go I am getting Clevitte. The rings on the other hand I am not sure, i would really like to know which are the best to get as well. Anyone else have any info.

 

[Justin727]

clevite bearings. If you are using stock pistons I'd stay with stock rings from toyota. 10-20RA is ideal. If they cant get it that smooth you gotta lap it urself. I have a picture of the lapping tool in my build thread. Make sure they get all the pitting out of the block as well or else u'll be lapping for a while.

 

[Slow66]

1) i personally liek the clevites...
2) if youre getting new bearings, new rings are a must, toyota ones will be fine, but you'll have to know whether or not the bore is beign oversized or not before gettign rings
3) its called "decking" and the RA will be dependant upon the brand of gasket, but the smoother the better....

 

[jdub]

Bearings - either is good...the more popular choice is the clevite bearings. The critical thing is to make the machine shop understand the clearences must be in spec...no sloppy work here, unless you want to develop rod knock again. I would have the crank balanced while you're there and use ARP rod & bearing bolts.

I have Ross pistons...used the rings that came with them. No personal experience, but I hear Total Seal rings are good :dunno:

It's called "decking the block". The machine shop should be able to achieve the smoothness necessary...if not, go to another machine shop. If you do have to have the block bored, make sure they use a torque plate. Have the head decked as well and check the valve seals....you may want to have the vave job done too while the head is off.

Don't be tempted to go cheap on the machine work...use a good shop w/ a good reputation. The bottom end on the 7M does not tolerate sloppy work...you can pay now or pay for the re-do later.

 

[NDBoost]

oh i dont plan on cheaping out. Ive decided im going to get the head redone, new seals and have the valves checked etc. I was going to look into the cost for porting the head.

And im going to have crank balanced and machined/cleaned as well as the block decked

 

[Justin727]

If you get aftermarket pistons rings will come with them.
btw total seal is crap for our 7m's although I have seen them work well in a 350

 

[miggles]

I got JE's 40thou over and they didnt come with rings so i had to order them seperately.I got the gas nitrided set not the chrome moly.arp main studs,rod bolts and headbolts, cometic hg 2mm and will end up using king bearings.Im also getting a malh (sp?) oilpump,the machinist is going to machine up a spacer/shim and if needed a tighter spring for oil pressure.