Think of it this way, once you do a rebuild, and do it right, it'll be good for another 100,000 miles or more, assuming you keep up with new plugs, oil, filters etc 
need some input guys!
- Thread starter i165mk
- Start date
- Status
badboysupra said:
I don't get what you mean I need to grow up?
Maybe you need to kerb your enthusiasm and give better advice as the minute you open your JDM engine there goes any and all warranty so if it has RK a BHG Erroded head Soft head Erroded Deck or a cracked Deck you're SOL....
JDM engines, no matter where they come from, will have the same problems as they do here. You don't know how they've been driven, how they've been taken care of, etc... A rebuild is 100% better than just buying a JDM engine. You know the history and you are positive that it will be good and strong. And like IJ stated, there can be more problems than just gaskets and hoses going bad.
And Ian, I'm not sure what he meant by growing up but maybe he meant to say get at least 15 7M builds under your belt before you can be helpful. Lol.
And Ian, I'm not sure what he meant by growing up but maybe he meant to say get at least 15 7M builds under your belt before you can be helpful. Lol.
I've spoken my peace on JDM engines in this thread and others. The reasoning behind why rebuilding your own engine vs. buying an engine with unknown history is more cost effective in the long run has been satisfied on this thread. What more needs to be said on this topic?
I got an engine over here in my car that has been compression tested (sorry can't provide you with the data) and I'll guarantee it to last XX,XXX miles, BUT, if the engine has been tampered with once you have problems with it, your warranty is void.
I got an engine over here in my car that has been compression tested (sorry can't provide you with the data) and I'll guarantee it to last XX,XXX miles, BUT, if the engine has been tampered with once you have problems with it, your warranty is void
.
I also personaly would go after a low milage imported engine.
Check the oil level
Sample the oil and have it analyzed
Check the oil cap Got choclate milk in there?
Check the spark plugs burn residue and paterns.
Check the COMPRESSION!
Check the turbo shaft for play
Check the turbo blades while in there.
Can you throw a battery in it and even start it for a couple min?
Is it 50,000km engine or a 100,000km engine? Some even come with way less milage
Does the JDM engine come with a warentee ?
You will be suprised how just by doing the above with a 30,000 mile engine or less you could tell what the engine shape is and even take it back if it is even bad.
JDM engine FTW
I just recomend if it is 7M platform take the valve covers off and just retorque the head to specs and you should get at least 200,000 miles out of a 7M with no problem oil mods and good routine maintenance with synthetic based oils should easily surpase the 200,000 mile mark making any $800 investment worth while.
Check the oil level
Sample the oil and have it analyzed
Check the oil cap Got choclate milk in there?
Check the spark plugs burn residue and paterns.
Check the COMPRESSION!
Check the turbo shaft for play
Check the turbo blades while in there.
Can you throw a battery in it and even start it for a couple min?
Is it 50,000km engine or a 100,000km engine? Some even come with way less milage
Does the JDM engine come with a warentee ?
You will be suprised how just by doing the above with a 30,000 mile engine or less you could tell what the engine shape is and even take it back if it is even bad.
JDM engine FTW
I just recomend if it is 7M platform take the valve covers off and just retorque the head to specs and you should get at least 200,000 miles out of a 7M with no problem oil mods and good routine maintenance with synthetic based oils should easily surpase the 200,000 mile mark making any $800 investment worth while.
nothing against you guys, but the wise man has spoken, and jdm is not tyte..
:3d_frown:
just for shit and giggles i thought i would number them and awsner them against my jdm expeience...
1:there was no oil in the motor. the shippers were rough and ruined the oil pan, needless to say it delayed installtion! and no , my warrenty didn't help, they told me to take it up with the shipper.
2:if i choose the cheap way, how the hell could i afford to have some one sample the oil, btw there was none!
3:no there was no oil/water milky mix. but doesn't mean it didn't have a bhg... just means nothing has mixed yet..
4: you think most people could tell what the dam this means, and besides, it should look great, the only thing this could really tell you is was the enigne burning oil, was it fauling plugs, was it running rich or lean, most people see a rich plug and replace it. :3d_frown:
5: great! some thing that might actualy tell some thing about the motor, luckily they do this for you... oh wait, they lost my paper work some where and had no f-ing copies... oh yeah wait i can do it my self... oh shit, i dont have a leakage tester... looks like i'll need to crank the engine with a batterie and charger on it to get decent rpm so the compression test is acurate.. awww shit, how the hell should i crank a engine sittin on a pallet with no tranny? shit i better install the engine to do this!
6: check shaft play thats all? dont look for oil residue on the exhaust turbine? you can have great shaft play and still have bad seals, but cant dog on this to much, any one can check, weather or not they know what to look for is the main concer, in/out shaft play bad. littl side to side ok, but not awsome. look for chipped impeller fins along with cracks and leaks residue, also checking the exhaust side to see if it appears dry will tell you if it was burning oil.
7:cool, i over covered it in my #6 post, but im glade it was mentioned,
8: maybe if it was a 7m clip. but most of us have all the parts to install the motor, so we cheap out and just by the long block.. again, no tranny, no mounted starter, and quickly becomes a dangerous situation tring to start a engine loose like this..
9:sure there said to be low milage, but no way to tell unless you had the clip the motor came out of. again, they lost my paper work!
10: yeah, it came with a 30 day warenty, from they day the shippers sign and drop the engine off. which if you are like me, you have roughly 3 days a week to work on it, and first timmers may take up to a month just to get the thing close to their car for instaltion, i had mine in 2 weeks, and then took another 2 weeks to source the parts i needed to get it to run , by this time i had no warenty, oh yeah, i called them about my oil pan that had a huge hole in it, they said they would no cover it , and it was shipped good, they also asked about the vaule of the pan, and then instructed me to contact "yellow" the shipper and talk to them about their insurance policy..
made the phone call , they wanted to see the pan, and some other bs, it was faster and easier to find one localy from a junkyard..
oh and that wasn't the only good stuff i had from my jdm engine ..
the cam's were junk, scoreing in them, when i had my head rebuilt my machineist told me to source cam's if i planned to have half decent oil pressure let alone a relible rig.
when i pulled the head after reciving the engine, "note" i have not started this, but decided to put a new oem style head gasket in there with arp's
head gasket was pushing the waterjacket in funny ways around number 6, this lead me to belive this motor had an over heating problem. compression blowing into the coolant system, cause the coolant to depressurize, allowing for boiling point to lower and engine temps to xky rocket.
oh wait, my jdm fun doesn't stop there!
after cleaning up the deck surface enoug, i found a nice healty crack going down the exhaust side of the deck, about 1-2 inches long, going through a head bolt hole, and through a water jacket or two,
latter in the engine life after having the head off a few times, i decided to jump on the mhg band wagon, i checked the deck for square, flatnes and smoothness sanded some rough spots and made her look shinny,
i missed the fact that the deck between the cylinders was warpd 9 thoughsands and the mhg was not sealing correctly,
so i rebuilt a good engine to put a mhg on, the crack became more visble, and grew from 1-2 inches to almost 4/5 inches..
after much thought, i ran it any ways knowing my importer did not give a shit about me.. ps i paid 1475 to have my motor shipped to my door..
and just for the hell of it, badboysupra, you say you have such knowledge,
then why do you keep buying and selling your problems?
im pretty dam happy with mine, and have found no reason to sell them off and buy knew ones ..
maybe im barking up a tree with no reward, but you sound like a rich cali kid. that has seen to many movies,
granted the prices of a machine shop in cali will probaly be more htne most area's but i think you could have shopped around more and found bettwe prices, like a short blcok for 500? jesus, mine was done for 2/250.. it would be cheaper to buy your bearings in a kit, and not seperate.
and in most cases post count does reflect how much you can grasp and how well you can give back to the comunity, obviously, you missed the fact that ij has over 10k, and his word's of wisdom has never lead any one in the wrong direction as long as i have been reading his post since 05,
and lastly, i think when people ask for advice, they should be told the RIGHT way to do it first, this way they dont spend 4k running around in circles screaming at their car, and only to have to fix stuff here and there after they did the repair.
i learned my lessiion, i jdmed mine, and my brother had a rk, i had a shop short bock and balence it, bore, prep for mhg, and grind the crank, his motor is solid with over 8k miles on it now, and has boosted hard every day,
my jdm motor didn't last a month before i lost the new oem hg i put in with arp's,
the only way i would reccomend getting a jdm motor is if you are doing a turbo swap, only cause it "can" be cheaper getting a long block then parting together a turbo parts swap for an n/a
:3d_frown:
Evilempire1.3JZ-GTE said:I also personaly would go after a low milage imported engine.
1:Check the oil level
2:Sample the oil and have it analyzed
3:Check the oil cap Got choclate milk in there?
4:Check the spark plugs burn residue and paterns.
5:Check the COMPRESSION!
6:Check the turbo shaft for play
7:Check the turbo blades while in there.
8:Can you throw a battery in it and even start it for a couple min?
9:Is it 50,000km engine or a 100,000km engine? Some even come with way less milage
10
You will be suprised how just by doing the above with a 30,000 mile engine or less you could tell what the engine shape is and even take it back if it is even bad.
JDM engine FTW
I just recomend if it is 7M platform take the valve covers off and just retorque the head to specs and you should get at least 200,000 miles out of a 7M with no problem oil mods and good routine maintenance with synthetic based oils should easily surpase the 200,000 mile mark making any $800 investment worth while.
just for shit and giggles i thought i would number them and awsner them against my jdm expeience...
1:there was no oil in the motor. the shippers were rough and ruined the oil pan, needless to say it delayed installtion! and no , my warrenty didn't help, they told me to take it up with the shipper.
2:if i choose the cheap way, how the hell could i afford to have some one sample the oil, btw there was none!
3:no there was no oil/water milky mix. but doesn't mean it didn't have a bhg... just means nothing has mixed yet..
4: you think most people could tell what the dam this means, and besides, it should look great, the only thing this could really tell you is was the enigne burning oil, was it fauling plugs, was it running rich or lean, most people see a rich plug and replace it. :3d_frown:
5: great! some thing that might actualy tell some thing about the motor, luckily they do this for you... oh wait, they lost my paper work some where and had no f-ing copies... oh yeah wait i can do it my self... oh shit, i dont have a leakage tester... looks like i'll need to crank the engine with a batterie and charger on it to get decent rpm so the compression test is acurate.. awww shit, how the hell should i crank a engine sittin on a pallet with no tranny? shit i better install the engine to do this!
6: check shaft play thats all? dont look for oil residue on the exhaust turbine? you can have great shaft play and still have bad seals, but cant dog on this to much, any one can check, weather or not they know what to look for is the main concer, in/out shaft play bad. littl side to side ok, but not awsome. look for chipped impeller fins along with cracks and leaks residue, also checking the exhaust side to see if it appears dry will tell you if it was burning oil.
7:cool, i over covered it in my #6 post, but im glade it was mentioned,
8: maybe if it was a 7m clip. but most of us have all the parts to install the motor, so we cheap out and just by the long block.. again, no tranny, no mounted starter, and quickly becomes a dangerous situation tring to start a engine loose like this..
9:sure there said to be low milage, but no way to tell unless you had the clip the motor came out of. again, they lost my paper work!
10: yeah, it came with a 30 day warenty, from they day the shippers sign and drop the engine off. which if you are like me, you have roughly 3 days a week to work on it, and first timmers may take up to a month just to get the thing close to their car for instaltion, i had mine in 2 weeks, and then took another 2 weeks to source the parts i needed to get it to run , by this time i had no warenty, oh yeah, i called them about my oil pan that had a huge hole in it, they said they would no cover it , and it was shipped good, they also asked about the vaule of the pan, and then instructed me to contact "yellow" the shipper and talk to them about their insurance policy..
made the phone call , they wanted to see the pan, and some other bs, it was faster and easier to find one localy from a junkyard..
oh and that wasn't the only good stuff i had from my jdm engine ..
the cam's were junk, scoreing in them, when i had my head rebuilt my machineist told me to source cam's if i planned to have half decent oil pressure let alone a relible rig.
when i pulled the head after reciving the engine, "note" i have not started this, but decided to put a new oem style head gasket in there with arp's
head gasket was pushing the waterjacket in funny ways around number 6, this lead me to belive this motor had an over heating problem. compression blowing into the coolant system, cause the coolant to depressurize, allowing for boiling point to lower and engine temps to xky rocket.
oh wait, my jdm fun doesn't stop there!
after cleaning up the deck surface enoug, i found a nice healty crack going down the exhaust side of the deck, about 1-2 inches long, going through a head bolt hole, and through a water jacket or two,
latter in the engine life after having the head off a few times, i decided to jump on the mhg band wagon, i checked the deck for square, flatnes and smoothness sanded some rough spots and made her look shinny,
i missed the fact that the deck between the cylinders was warpd 9 thoughsands and the mhg was not sealing correctly,
so i rebuilt a good engine to put a mhg on, the crack became more visble, and grew from 1-2 inches to almost 4/5 inches..
after much thought, i ran it any ways knowing my importer did not give a shit about me.. ps i paid 1475 to have my motor shipped to my door..
and just for the hell of it, badboysupra, you say you have such knowledge,
then why do you keep buying and selling your problems?
im pretty dam happy with mine, and have found no reason to sell them off and buy knew ones ..
maybe im barking up a tree with no reward, but you sound like a rich cali kid. that has seen to many movies,
granted the prices of a machine shop in cali will probaly be more htne most area's but i think you could have shopped around more and found bettwe prices, like a short blcok for 500? jesus, mine was done for 2/250.. it would be cheaper to buy your bearings in a kit, and not seperate.
and in most cases post count does reflect how much you can grasp and how well you can give back to the comunity, obviously, you missed the fact that ij has over 10k, and his word's of wisdom has never lead any one in the wrong direction as long as i have been reading his post since 05,
and lastly, i think when people ask for advice, they should be told the RIGHT way to do it first, this way they dont spend 4k running around in circles screaming at their car, and only to have to fix stuff here and there after they did the repair.
i learned my lessiion, i jdmed mine, and my brother had a rk, i had a shop short bock and balence it, bore, prep for mhg, and grind the crank, his motor is solid with over 8k miles on it now, and has boosted hard every day,
my jdm motor didn't last a month before i lost the new oem hg i put in with arp's,
the only way i would reccomend getting a jdm motor is if you are doing a turbo swap, only cause it "can" be cheaper getting a long block then parting together a turbo parts swap for an n/a
badboysupra: if i have to delete over half of your 20 posts because you're being an outright arrogant prick, that means that you need an immediate attitude change, aside from the fact that i don't agree with half the information you posted. clean it up, or i'll gladly show you the door.
you don't come into OUR house with muddy shoes, sling bullshit attitude and information at us, and trample all over our hardwood floors. that shit won't fly here. i don't know about "where you come from", but i assure you, that is less than welcome at supramania.
-shaeff
you don't come into OUR house with muddy shoes, sling bullshit attitude and information at us, and trample all over our hardwood floors. that shit won't fly here. i don't know about "where you come from", but i assure you, that is less than welcome at supramania.
-shaeff
shaeff said:
maybe the JDM motors they sell in KY is bad too huh?
anywayz, I did not register out here to pick fights on guys like you. and Im not even arrogant. if you dont understand or agree on what I said on my previous reply. then dont say anything against it. I sure did not say anything against building a stock motor. and why are so pissed?? coz I came here with 20 somewhat posts and I happened to know ish??
go ahead and ban me here.. thats what lame people do anywayz.
you think too HIGHLY of yourself and you dont want to listen or understand someone elses opinion. let alone from a 25yr old who happened to have good mechanical experience. specially on Supras.
no wonder that almost everyone in the Supra Community says that its never good on the "other side"
I guess I aint welcome here after all.
but I'll see ya'llz around.
aite, peace.
We listened to your opinion and we found it to be full of holes, and just plain wrong. When pointing these out, you turn into an arrogant asshole. Oh you're 25? Wow - well that sure rings the 'experience' bell loudly huh? I think not.
Take a look at the members list - if anything we make up the bulk of the Mk3 Owners.
Supramania is a community, we dont think too highly of ourselves, we do however pride ourselves on giving out the right information and being civil and man enough to accept criticism and corrections when we are wrong. You however, don't fit that profile.
To whinge about 'go ahead, ban me' well thats just an invite to the admins to do just that. Had you just shut up or even just said 'okay, i guess i was wrong', you probably could have hung around.
Take a look at the members list - if anything we make up the bulk of the Mk3 Owners.
Supramania is a community, we dont think too highly of ourselves, we do however pride ourselves on giving out the right information and being civil and man enough to accept criticism and corrections when we are wrong. You however, don't fit that profile.
To whinge about 'go ahead, ban me' well thats just an invite to the admins to do just that. Had you just shut up or even just said 'okay, i guess i was wrong', you probably could have hung around.
Kai said:
man.. just coz I said that one other alternative of having a replacement engine is that to get a used JDM motor.
a JDM motor, that will get me kicked outta here... only on SM??
well, I pride on my opinion too and Im not giving out false information.
its just an opinion.
talkin about you or the rest of the haters being civil.......
aite, peace.
It isnt the fact that you advocated using a JDM motor at all - it was the fact that when presented with the alternative (a rebuild) along with a list of the downsides of going with a JDM engine, which, to be fair, you CANT guarantee, you acted like a prick and kicked off.
We're not 'hating' either - its simply that the majority of us disagree with your opinion, and you're not taking the hint - the OP in question has, IMO, quite rightly chosen to go the rebuild route, saving money in the long run.
As shaeff says, you're new here, so dont just come in shouting the odds, behaving like you're gods gift to engineering, and we should be bowing and scraping in your presence. There are far, far more experienced people on this forum than you, mate.
Next time, take the post count as a hint - i dunno where i stand, but as far as people like IJ are concerned, you should consider yourself privileged to have been given advice from probably THE foremost experts when it comes to these cars.
You *can* hang around, just dont be as foolish as you've been in this thread.
</EOFD>
Shaeff - that about wrap it up now?
We're not 'hating' either - its simply that the majority of us disagree with your opinion, and you're not taking the hint - the OP in question has, IMO, quite rightly chosen to go the rebuild route, saving money in the long run.
As shaeff says, you're new here, so dont just come in shouting the odds, behaving like you're gods gift to engineering, and we should be bowing and scraping in your presence. There are far, far more experienced people on this forum than you, mate.
Next time, take the post count as a hint - i dunno where i stand, but as far as people like IJ are concerned, you should consider yourself privileged to have been given advice from probably THE foremost experts when it comes to these cars.
You *can* hang around, just dont be as foolish as you've been in this thread.
</EOFD>
Shaeff - that about wrap it up now?
Kai said:
ok sir, whatever you say to make ya'llz happy. I'll just read on and study, plus minimize my postings.
aite, peace.
badboysupra said:
Maybe they are
. They all come from Japan, they are all used motors that you don't know the history of, hell, you go go to your local junkyard and find a rearended supra and get the engine outa it and the same luck with it as you would with a JDM motor Oh, did I mention you will save lots of money too? Or *gasp* you could rebuild the one you already have, and as long as you do it right, there should be no worries unless the engine you are working with has a serious mechanical defect with it.
It's just like IJ. posted earlier, buying any used engine is like playing russian rulet with a six shooter loaded up with with 5 bullets. Take out some of those bullets by building whatever you have (or can get you hands on for the best price/value) and doing it right.
If we do not agree with what you've said on any of your replies, we're definitely not going to sit around and not say anything, we will point out the flaws and debate with you until a reasonable answer has been agreed upon. That's what this place is here for, to debate, learn, and get along. If you can do those 3 things then you've got a bright future ahead of you on here.
badboysupra said:
no, its because you're an outright arrogant prick, and i won't have it. you're on thin ice as it is, and you're still pissing me off. i don't give a fuck how much you know, if you're an asshole, we don't want you here. i didn't realize that this was a fight, badboy. you know "ish"? heh, if that's knowledge, then i need to some homework. don't expect us to let your bullshit fly, because it's just not going to happen. don't understand? oh trust me, i understand everything you say.
i don't give a damn how many posts you have. post count means absolutely NOTHING to me. i was simply implying that you're such an asshat that i had to delete over half your posts. get it now? do YOU understand? trust me, i can be a LOT more clear.
badboysupra said:
ban you? you're closer than you think. so now i'm lame? sweet. i have nothing to prove to you or anybody. you're more than welcome to have an opinion here. but spreading around information that's incorrect will not be tolerated. i think highly of myself? i speak to you once and you've read me like a book. i see how it is. perhaps you need a reality check, badboy. i don't think of myself to be higher than anybody here, and i treat everyone as equals, unless you pull the bullshit that you have. like i said before, you can be the creator of the mk3 supra, but if you come in here with that attitude, you're still not going to last long. i don't give a shit who you are.
badboysupra said:
heh, riiight. i'm not even going to try to defend supramania, because i don't have to. the user database and number of active members here for a single car-specific site (meaning only the mk3 supra) is phenominal, and i DARE you to find one mk3 ONLY site with the amount of members and knowledge that we have here. keep up your attitude, and you just might have to.
that all being sorted out, this thread has more than served it's purpose. to the origional poster: if you have any other questions, please feel free to contact me.
thread closed.aite, peace.
-shaeff
- Status