Need some help.

[harmless]

Just picked up a 87 built 7mgte. 3bar with translator, big front mount, t4 turbo, 750cc injectors, forged internals, new fpr, 1jz intake, walbro 255, safc ii.

Car runs perfect out of boost, feels normal and revs all the way to red line. As i get into boost, i start to feel power but as i get closer and closer to 10psi, it feels like something just holds me back. I get code 22, 51, and 52. AFR is at 13 at idle and 11 while in at any throttle, never goes lean.

Do i just need to go and rewire the knock sensors with shielded cable?
Also my safc ii reads a knock of 70-80 while idle once its warm?

Header glows red.?.?.?

Id love all the help i can get.

 

[supraguy@aol]

Rewire the knock sensors.
My theory is( and i WILL be corrected if wrong), The ecu is running the car either rich, or retarded timing(or both) due to the code 52.
That's why you have rich AF's in part-throttle, and might explain why you're getting an incandescent nightlight manifold(the fuel is still burning as it exits the cylinders).

 

[harmless]

You guys are so much nicer over here than at the supra fourms. I was just told id blown the dang thing up.

 

[DeMoN2318]

Id start with the knock sensor rewire and see what other (if any) codes remain...

 

[supraguy@aol]

You guys are so much nicer over here than at the supra fourms. I was just told id blown the dang thing up.

Shut up.













(kidding)

 

[harmless]

car is still falling on its face, the knock ready is now at 70 once warmed up but shoots to 120-200 when on boost so i know its reading, fuel is at a constant 12-13 while in on the throttle with fuel regulator set at 44psi. still left with code 22 and code 51 every time, so 52 is now gone. ugh, this poor motor lol. a/c is off when getting codes.

afr is 14 at idle but changes and doesnt stay steady. idle is .8 volts at zero throttle and 3.9 at wot so i think something is wrong here

could there be a chance my cps is WAAAAYYYY off?

 

[Dan_Gyoba]

Code 22 should be easy to fix. Just do it. (Open or short in water temp signal.) Probably disconnected at the sensor. I believe that this can be replaced with a single female spade connector if the wiring connector is broken.

Code 51 is probably a TPS calibration error. Just fix it.

 

[harmless]

Just reset the car to 0* timing, it was turned all the way to right, hince maybe why i was getting true knock once the code 52 was fixed?

 

[CajunKenny]

A 3.9 WOT TPS voltage is high so, I'm with Dan on this one...

 

[hvyman]

Car should be set to 10* btdc ignition timing.


Also bad cat could cause the glow.

Are you running maft pro and safc?

 

[harmless]

Codes cleared. Car funs flawless not on boost. But still just falls on its face once it spools. Afr is a constant 11.6 when in the trottle.

 

[jdmfreak]

Could it be an exhaust blockage?

 

[harmless]

its straight piped with a can so i dont think so

 

[DeMoN2318]

and no CEL when it starts to fall off ?

 

[harmless]

nope, just falls. and if im at 10psi say at 3500rpm and release the boost pressure and get back in without boost its fine. Only only boost is when is falls off.

 

[DeMoN2318]

my initial thought was not enough fuel but you said you AFR is ok in boost. So now I am thinking ignition...

check your timing again maybe?

 

[harmless]

no cel and timing is at 10* btdc, so im going with as boost increases the spark isnt strong enough? spark blow out?

 

[supraguy@aol]

I think spark blowout would cause the car to stutter/ backfire- Anyone else have this happen to them?

 

[harmless]

The spark plugs were toast anyway after i looked at them

 

[CajunKenny]

Stop looking at them then...