Car idle's/starts/revs easy no problems
But holding a rev at rpm there is a slight miss.
Under load is when all the code 11 happens
But holding a rev at rpm there is a slight miss.
Under load is when all the code 11 happens
Need quick question Answered please Regarding stock ECU's
- Thread starter Turbo Habanero
- Start date
IndigoMKII;1822227 said:
I have been going through all the steps this morning I only have been driving the car to see if problem has gone away.
I do not have a timing light but timing is at TDC still. Im doing the Tps sensor as we speak I also bought a new ignition switche
This was pulled from jdub's post on another topic.
It's usually the ground. You can determine if is the ground or power side by following JJ's suggestion in a recent thread: Take a long wire and ground to the battery terminal. Attach the other end to the ECU at the ground terminal. If the CEL goes away, you know it's the ground.
http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?93857-once-again...another-code-11-thread
It's usually the ground. You can determine if is the ground or power side by following JJ's suggestion in a recent thread: Take a long wire and ground to the battery terminal. Attach the other end to the ECU at the ground terminal. If the CEL goes away, you know it's the ground.
http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?93857-once-again...another-code-11-thread
Following the code 11 lead, you may have a wire that is going open circuit when the engine twists under load. With the car idling grab the harness at various places you can get access to it and move it around. See if you can duplicate the problem you see under load. Same with any individual power wires such as the grounds at the manifold. Has the EFI fuse ever blown?
Indigo I don't think i can use that method as my check engine light only flashes when it happens does not stay on
That doesn't matter. You can make the problem occur essentially on demand, right? So run an extra ground, and take it out for a spin. It doesn't have to be pretty, just run a wire from the battery, up the fender, out from the back of the hood, through the driver's window, across the dash, into the glovebox to the ECU. It's not a matter of leaving this wire there, you'll only use it to diagnose the system.Turbo Habanero;1822248 said:
If it drives fine, there is something wrong with the stock ground system. If it still has the problem, it's likely the power side instead.
Essentially, this test splits the system into two halves, and lets you know where to look further. After you've tried it, let us know the results, and we can tell you what to check next.
OK update my timing was at 0 degrees keep in mind my harness has been through hell and is in very bad shape 
my CPS wires are taped together and a friend said that he thinks the CPS needs to replaced all together.
He had a hard timing keeping the car at 10degrees he said that he could play with the cps alittle and get it to work but he didn't know how long it would last.
We took it for a drive after putting new tape on some of the wires up and setting the timing to 10degrees and the result was no more jerking, no more codes, no more random backfiring there's still i slight miss at idle but you can barely here it (had to listen very close)
Car ran very smooth. it now made it to Redline with ease compared to before felt a little faster but not much
It would spin the tires from first to second for about 2seconds then grab (brand new Kumho ecsta ast 225/50/R16) and clutch held up fine (stock clutch) 13-15psi on a 60-1 full bolts on's....
my CPS wires are taped together and a friend said that he thinks the CPS needs to replaced all together.He had a hard timing keeping the car at 10degrees he said that he could play with the cps alittle and get it to work but he didn't know how long it would last.
We took it for a drive after putting new tape on some of the wires up and setting the timing to 10degrees and the result was no more jerking, no more codes, no more random backfiring there's still i slight miss at idle but you can barely here it (had to listen very close)
Car ran very smooth. it now made it to Redline with ease compared to before felt a little faster but not much
It would spin the tires from first to second for about 2seconds then grab (brand new Kumho ecsta ast 225/50/R16) and clutch held up fine (stock clutch) 13-15psi on a 60-1 full bolts on's....
here's a video of how bad it got
[video=youtube;8VI8nUwLXIE]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8VI8nUwLXIE[/video]
[video=youtube;8VI8nUwLXIE]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8VI8nUwLXIE[/video]
Turbo Habanero;1822305 said:OK update my timing was at 0 degrees keep in mind my harness has been through hell and is in very bad shape
He had a hard timing keeping the car at 10degrees he said that he could play with the cps alittle and get it to work but he didn't know how long it would last.
We took it for a drive after putting new tape on some of the wires up and setting the timing to 10degrees and the result was no more jerking, no more codes, no more random backfiring there's still i slight miss at idle but you can barely here it (had to listen very close)
Car ran very smooth. it now made it to Redline with ease compared to before felt a little faster but not much
It would spin the tires from first to second for about 2seconds then grab (brand new Kumho ecsta ast 225/50/R16) and clutch held up fine (stock clutch) 13-15psi on a 60-1 full bolts on's....
I've been saying fix the tps and check the ignition timing.. Glad you found and fixed the problem.
Sounds like your harness is in pretty rough shape, if it is that bad might be better to start from scratch with all new wires as opposed to trying a equally old harness and hoping nothing is bad with that one.
Also if your running a cat that miss will eventually melt it.
Keep in mind that if you have an exhaust leak before the O2 sensor your sampling will be deluded with fresh air, so if your looking at AFR's of low 10.s it could be worse and even if it isnt this overly rich condition could be causing your partial miss.
Also if your running a cat that miss will eventually melt it.
Keep in mind that if you have an exhaust leak before the O2 sensor your sampling will be deluded with fresh air, so if your looking at AFR's of low 10.s it could be worse and even if it isnt this overly rich condition could be causing your partial miss.
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TheMaxx;1822598 said:
With making a new harness, you can delete wires you don't need/plan on using later on. A fresh harness will always perform better than a 20+ year old one.
New harness is in the feature for sure..
Current problem is my BOV doesn't seem to be working anymore...
well let me explain before my blow off valve HKS ssqv (REAL) would just give a solid burst of air unless letting of at medium VAC then you would hear the Flutter that the intake gives or maybe it was surge I don't know.
But after i fixed the timing on my car it flutters all the time even under 15psi let off's.. the thing is i can still here the intial burst of air followed by a flutter
So then i decided to make sure the valve was opening and it does it opens under very little throttle at IDLE and when i give it a decent rev i get that crazy flutter and it's coming form the valve i can feel the air coming out in burst against my hand instead a solid wooosh like it use too..
So do you think it's failing ???
Current problem is my BOV doesn't seem to be working anymore...
well let me explain before my blow off valve HKS ssqv (REAL) would just give a solid burst of air unless letting of at medium VAC then you would hear the Flutter that the intake gives or maybe it was surge I don't know.
But after i fixed the timing on my car it flutters all the time even under 15psi let off's.. the thing is i can still here the intial burst of air followed by a flutter
So then i decided to make sure the valve was opening and it does it opens under very little throttle at IDLE and when i give it a decent rev i get that crazy flutter and it's coming form the valve i can feel the air coming out in burst against my hand instead a solid wooosh like it use too..
So do you think it's failing ???
19-20 and 24 while driving Boost is dropping off pretty bad only gets to about 14psi and drops to 10
Sounds like with the timing fix and the car running better, you've developed a boost leak. Mine did the same thing once I changed my timing back to where it should be with the jumpers in place, no clue how but it did.
I'm probably wrong though::shrug::
I'm probably wrong though::shrug::
IndigoMKII;1822665 said:
I hope you right
More power and correct VAC maybe my Vacuum got better when i did my timing and i hope this is part of my power lose issues