MKIIISupraGuy;1906521 said:
Thanks and I was thinking about that as well. My tuner has my MAP still and is going to be emailing me soon so i'm thinking about resetting the emanage and reflashing it.
Need help!
- Thread starter seoul4korea
- Start date
Thanks and I was thinking about that as well. My tuner has my MAP still and is going to be emailing me soon so i'm thinking about resetting the emanage and reflashing it.
Not too sure its been solved just yet, the AF look better but they are still a little high = /te72;1906561 said:Glad to hear you got the issue figured out.
Radial;1906868 said:Re-calibrate your Wideband.
5 cents its out of calibration...
kk, any advice as to how to do that?
It's in your Wideband control manual.
Different procedure for every wideband.... but on a Innovative MTX-L its like this:
Remove o2 sensor from exhaust, hang it in fresh free air.
Disconnect 02 sensor from controller
Start up Controller, an an error will be displayed (I don't remember exactly what code it was right now)
Shut down controller again, connect Wideband (yes, its still in free air)
Fire up controller.... it should state "CAL" in the wideband display.
Once the "CAL" is gone, it's calibrated and it starts to show AFR's again (should peak at 22 AFR's or similar).
Then you can install it to your exhaust system again and go for a spin.
It's recommended to calibrate your wideband every month with normal use.... if you are racing, you should do it before each trackday.
If you soak it with gasoline or carbon because of ECU problems or similar, let it dry and always re-calibrate before trusting the readings.
Never clean the sensor with anything....I fucked my o2 sensor by just cleaning it with water, that was 100$ down the toilet....
Different procedure for every wideband.... but on a Innovative MTX-L its like this:
Remove o2 sensor from exhaust, hang it in fresh free air.
Disconnect 02 sensor from controller
Start up Controller, an an error will be displayed (I don't remember exactly what code it was right now)
Shut down controller again, connect Wideband (yes, its still in free air)
Fire up controller.... it should state "CAL" in the wideband display.
Once the "CAL" is gone, it's calibrated and it starts to show AFR's again (should peak at 22 AFR's or similar).
Then you can install it to your exhaust system again and go for a spin.
It's recommended to calibrate your wideband every month with normal use.... if you are racing, you should do it before each trackday.
If you soak it with gasoline or carbon because of ECU problems or similar, let it dry and always re-calibrate before trusting the readings.
Never clean the sensor with anything....I fucked my o2 sensor by just cleaning it with water, that was 100$ down the toilet....
Radial;1906897 said:
Great to know, I have a prosport and I have NEVER calibrated since I installed it haha. i'll give it a shot.
Ok I changed the battery, (It wasn't holding a charge) and she is still running rough. I have Zero Codes.... I need to look into emanage.
MKIIISupraGuy;1907477 said:
I'm going to get a hold of my friends Laptop just so I can test it out, that's my next move for now.
what size injectors do you have? with twins id imagine they are probably not larger than 440s. have you tried to run the car just on the ecu?
Radial;1907581 said:
Does this include the addition of the ignition harness?
I have factory injectors.
I'm not sure...because it depends on how its installed.
If you have the "male and female" quick disconnect plugs on your ignition harness.... it should be easy, but if its all soldered its allot more work.
You can see the emanage manual drawing states "Male" and "Female" connectors at each end of the ignition harness..... so it would be easy to go back to stock configuration. But many has probably soldered those connections instead, leaving you stuck with "adding" temporary jumper-wires in the emanage plug until you have found the problem.
Jumperwire everything back to stock...all the aftermarket ecu's just fuck up everything on a stock ecu.
If you have the "male and female" quick disconnect plugs on your ignition harness.... it should be easy, but if its all soldered its allot more work.
You can see the emanage manual drawing states "Male" and "Female" connectors at each end of the ignition harness..... so it would be easy to go back to stock configuration. But many has probably soldered those connections instead, leaving you stuck with "adding" temporary jumper-wires in the emanage plug until you have found the problem.
Jumperwire everything back to stock...all the aftermarket ecu's just fuck up everything on a stock ecu.
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Here is an update boys and girls! So my friend came over and after connecting emanage I didn't find much. I created a new MAP and uploaded it completely deleting the old one, after start up the car ran instantly better. 14.8 AFRs while driving and under boost around 12.4 and 11.9 WOT, my next plan is to do the ECU relearn as the ECU relearned on incorrect data.
The one thing I saw was that the MAP voltage going into Emanage was 1.5V and Emanage was outputting to the ECU 1.25V, I don't know if this caused an issue but it seemed strange. the other thing I noticed is that once I added the new MAP the MAP voltage was almost the same (For the input and output).
I'm going to try and get my old map and reload it and see what that is... I forgot how much Fuel Cut sucks haha.
The one thing I saw was that the MAP voltage going into Emanage was 1.5V and Emanage was outputting to the ECU 1.25V, I don't know if this caused an issue but it seemed strange. the other thing I noticed is that once I added the new MAP the MAP voltage was almost the same (For the input and output).
I'm going to try and get my old map and reload it and see what that is... I forgot how much Fuel Cut sucks haha.
Radial;1910660 said:
awesome, Thanks mate. I wonder why my last ECU had my AFRS at 13.9 for Idle/cruising.