Need help with knock sensor rewire..

[scotty]

Hi,

I'm not quite understanding the knock sensor rewire guides..

First of all, one guide says to ground both sides of the new cables, the two other guides says not to, and one of them points out that it will just create more noise then no shielding at all. What's correct?

Also, it would be great if someone could explain in an easy way how to connect the new wire on the ECU connectors. There are lots of words I don't fully understand in the guides, which makes it hard to know what to do. Are the old cables on ECU pins only going to the knock sensors? Is it then to just cut the old cable(not too close to ECU) and then connect the new cable to it?

Does it matter which knock sensor leading to what ECU pin? of those two..

Where is the "ballast resistor at left strut tower"? Can I just connect it to the intake plenum where it's already got some grounded cables?


http://www.supras.com/06/techcenter/display.php?QID=51
http://www.supras.com/06/techcenter/display.php?QID=69
http://oldschool.supracentral.com/htm/knock.htm

 

[Nick M]

You are not grounding the signal wire. You are grounding stray signal in the shielding. I don't think it is needed, it didn't come that way.

 

[scotty]

I know it's not the signal wire I'm ground lol Ok thanks. You who guys have done a rewire, did you ground both or one side?

Scott

 

[dumbo]

I rewired mine when I went NA-T, I spiced both wires out of the ECU into the one sensor. You of course well have to run two seperate wires, one to each sensor. I grounded both ends and it hasn't thrown a KS code ever. I read some people said only ground one end but that was after I grounded both, and hey, if it aint broke dont FUCK with it.

Make sure you do good solders(flux) right onto the plug, and have good clean(sanded if needed) grounds.

As for the resistor on the left strut tower, what does that have to do with the KS?

 

[scotty]

Thanks for reply. What does 'spice' mean? Example?

It says to connect the ground shielding to the left strut tower.. Where did you connect the engine side ground?

 

[shaeff]

http://www.supramania.com/forums/content.php?135-Knock-Sensor-Rewire-Write-up-(code-52)

1) use coaxial cable
2) Use NEW connectors for the knock sensors
3) Ground ONE end of the shielding wire, I choose to ground the ECU side so it can't corrode. (grounding one side only to prevent ground loops. )
4) You have a pre '89 so you MIGHT have to loosen the starter to get the rear connector on.

Edit: and dumbo didn't mean spice, he meant splice.

Edit2: Read up on ground loops: http://www.epanorama.net/documents/groundloop/basics.html

 

[87M-GTE]

I have been wondering this too. I contacted Chris about this a while back as well.

I still have to say I am a bit confused!
Electrical and wiring is one part of cars I have a hard time understanding.

For example:
On my car, I never got a KS code or CEL. I took the harness out (because I redoing things, BHG, etc..) and the wire came out of the KS connector. I figured it might as well be a good idea to re-wire so as to never have a problem with it in the future. As it sits right now the connector is still 'pulled' off the harness.

In simple terms, what would you recommend doing?

Chris, I have seen your KS re-wire kit and I don't fully understand whats all involved with it.
If you have some pics of how it works and how it installs I would really appreciate it!

Thanks,
Sam

 

[supraguy@aol]

It's really simple.
As Shaeff said- You strip the new shielded wire till you have access to the core wire, and splice that into the wires coming off the two OX wires out of your ecu, solder and heatshrink wrap it. Leave a bit of length to the shielding wire, twist it into a lead, and solder a ground wire to it that you can ground near the ecu. on the KS end, solder and heatshrink wrap the core wire onto the plug, and cut the shielding wire away so there is none of it left to contact anything. Done.

 

[shaeff]

I have been wondering this too. I contacted Chris about this a while back as well.

I still have to say I am a bit confused!
Electrical and wiring is one part of cars I have a hard time understanding.

For example:
On my car, I never got a KS code or CEL. I took the harness out (because I redoing things, BHG, etc..) and the wire came out of the KS connector. I figured it might as well be a good idea to re-wire so as to never have a problem with it in the future. As it sits right now the connector is still 'pulled' off the harness.

In simple terms, what would you recommend doing?

Chris, I have seen your KS re-wire kit and I don't fully understand whats all involved with it.
If you have some pics of how it works and how it installs I would really appreciate it!

Thanks,
Sam

It's really simple.
As Shaeff said- You strip the new shielded wire till you have access to the core wire, and splice that into the wires coming off the two OX wires out of your ecu, solder and heatshrink wrap it. Leave a bit of length to the shielding wire, twist it into a lead, and solder a ground wire to it that you can ground near the ecu. on the KS end, solder and heatshrink wrap the core wire onto the plug, and cut the shielding wire away so there is none of it left to contact anything. Done.

Sam, supraguy here's got it.

If I were you, I'd grab two (if turbo), (or one if N/A) connectors from Toyota. The P/N is 82219-89103. Pull the black rubber plug out of the back side of it, then use a jeweler's screwdriver (very fine tip) to release the pin from the connector. Then I use a razor blade to carefully strip the outer sheath off, usually about 1/2". I peel the shielding wire back, and heat shrink it against the outer sheath. This does two things. 1) keeps it from getting up toward the signal wire and grounding it out (which would cause you to get a code 52), and 2) allows the wire to be shielded all the way up to the connector damn near as far as possible. The OEM wiring is not like that.

I personally cut the wire right off at the connector, pop the rubber plug onto the new coax, then solder the coaxial wire's center wire (the signal wire) directly to the pin and re-insert it into the connector. Do that for both if turbo.

Then at the other end, I strip it even further back, usually around 3.5" or so, peel back the shielding wires, twist them together, solder a 14awg ground wire to it with a loop terminal crimped on, heat shrink that connection, then tape it facing the other end of the harness to help isolate the solder joint from vibrations. The two wires you have left, strip back, and solder to the ECU wires. The only two with clear insulation.

Wrap it all up in a loom and you're good to go.

 

[mecevans]

i reused the old connectors

 

[shaeff]

I never said they can't be reused. But new ones are so damn cheap it would be retarded not to just replace them and know that they won't fail on you.

 

[dumbo]

Thanks for the edit shaeff haha. Altough I do enjoys spices

Edit. Splice: "to join or unite. "

 

[NashMan]

still to this day i will never under stand this

factory has pig tail about 1 to 2 inc long not sheiled then become sheidl once it joins the coil park wire and all the other junk in the harness that gives off noise the rear one by the starter might be full shedl to the connector but i know for fact the front one has about 1 to 2 inc's not sheidl

to this date i have yet to see the sheiled ground break ever or cause code 52

it aways the sencores it broken most cause by starter install

that or the factory plug is crimped on the jacket of the wire and not getting that great of contanutiy

and if you conntores is trashed and you don't have spare just use a female blade crimp it will do just fine


ps 88 and 89 have diffetn plugs but the sensores work the same

 

[shaeff]

still to this day i will never under stand this

factory has pig tail about 1 to 2 inc long not sheiled then become sheidl once it joins the coil park wire and all the other junk in the harness that gives off noise the rear one by the starter might be full shedl to the connector but i know for fact the front one has about 1 to 2 inc's not sheidl

This is correct.

to this date i have yet to see the sheiled ground break ever or cause code 52

it aways the sencores it broken most cause by starter install

I would venture to say that 95% of the code 52's I've seen are failed wiring. In fact, most of the sensors have been in decent functioning shape that I've come across.

that or the factory plug is crimped on the jacket of the wire and not getting that great of contanutiy

Untrue. The factory wire is crimped to the actual terminal, and the pin is ALSO crimped to the insulation. It's incredibly sturdy, plus you get the extra isolation from the rubber boot on the stock connector to further protect it.

and if you conntores is trashed and you don't have spare just use a female blade crimp it will do just fine

When the connectors are so inexpensive, why would you put an open spade terminal on something that helps control your timing? That's just an invitation for dirt, dust, corrosion to get in there and cause you another code 52. :nono: The stock connectors are sealed for a reason.

ps 88 and 89 have diffetn plugs but the sensores work the same

The connectors are all interchangeable, meaning that the 82219-89103 connector plugs into all of them regardless of year. Are you talking about the connector color? Or are you confusing it with the JZ sytle KS connectors?

I have read that '92's used the JZ style knock sensors, and as such have a different connector. I have not personally verified it though, as I have never worked on a '92.

 

[91supran/a]

i did the rewire back in like november i think i bought the kit from u shaeff as well as another knock sensor for the one that was broken on my car somebody broke the conecter of on mine but now after doing my headgasket job note i did not unplug them or anything because there on a seprete harness so no need to unplug it any ideas of what could be causing it to come back shaeff? im really bumbed cause the car has been runing really really good like kickass good for a week now since i retrqd my new headgasket now today it throws the damn code again ruined my day i cleared it and it throught it again but only after i drive the car for a while before it would be instant i couldent get up the street b4 it would pop up now i can drive around then all of a sudden it comes on...any ideas
sorry for my rant long day at work and with my female companion and now this...

 

[shaeff]

I will send you a PM.

 

[NashMan]

This is correct.



I would venture to say that 95% of the code 52's I've seen are failed wiring. In fact, most of the sensors have been in decent functioning shape that I've come across.


Untrue. The factory wire is crimped to the actual terminal, and the pin is ALSO crimped to the insulation. It's incredibly sturdy, plus you get the extra isolation from the rubber boot on the stock connector to further protect it.


When the connectors are so inexpensive, why would you put an open spade terminal on something that helps control your timing? That's just an invitation for dirt, dust, corrosion to get in there and cause you another code 52. :nono: The stock connectors are sealed for a reason.


The connectors are all interchangeable, meaning that the 82219-89103 connector plugs into all of them regardless of year. Are you talking about the connector color? Or are you confusing it with the JZ sytle KS connectors?

I have read that '92's used the JZ style knock sensors, and as such have a different connector. I have not personally verified it though, as I have never worked on a '92.

the ones i see fail are from damage of inmpoer installed of the starter i fix 2 in the past 2 mouth

what i mean by the jacket is the wire get pulled and seam liek ti still connected but just held by the jacket only scene this about 2 or 3 times

91 and 92 have diffent plugs just fix one on harry car erly this mouth because the one by the starter broke and all i had was stuff from my 92 car and there indeed diffent

and 22re and 5m have te same plug tell 90 and many others form toyota line up

teh blade will work is it the best nope but if you are in bind it will be fine i had it this way on one fo my car for about 3 yeasr no issues and if you scard of dirt getting in there make a rubber boot or fill ti ditrcail greas

what i ment about failed wire is the ground not being good eghpough to sheil the wire it just plain never happens that i have ever scene and i have fixed a crap load

 

[scotty]

Done the knock sensor rewire.. STILL pulling error code 52.. Not bothered buying knock sensors, so I'll just leave it for now.

 

[mecevans]

Anyone know which ecu pin goes to the front or back knock sensor?

 

[shaeff]

Anyone know which ecu pin goes to the front or back knock sensor?

Doesn't matter, however if you'd really like to know-

I just checked an 87-88 turbo harness I have here. The rear sensor is KNK2.