Need help asap supra is on the side of the road!
- Thread starter dmiller
- Start date
Open the hood and locate the diagnostic connector. Is it next to the battery and can be seen in the figure to the right. You will want to connect terminals E1 and TE1. I used a big paper clip, which I leave in the back of my car, and it is actually 'sprung' against the connector lid to add some pressure for a better connection. Clicking on the picture will give you a much better view. It might be hard to see in the picture, so the bottom figure illustrates the terminals to connect, in red, with the paper clip
After you do this start your car. The check engine light should now be blinking. If it is continuos quick blinking then you are fine there are no error codes, otherwise you have to count the blinks. Each set of blinks will represent one digit with a longer pause to separate digits. There may be more than one code present, but it is on a continuos loop. For example if you saw blink...blink.......blink...blink...blink...blink....... that would be a code 24. After you are done you can clear the codes by pulling the EFI fuse (15A) in the fuse block right next to the diagnostic connector for 30 seconds or more, make sure the engine is off.
did all that^^
After you do this start your car. The check engine light should now be blinking. If it is continuos quick blinking then you are fine there are no error codes, otherwise you have to count the blinks. Each set of blinks will represent one digit with a longer pause to separate digits. There may be more than one code present, but it is on a continuos loop. For example if you saw blink...blink.......blink...blink...blink...blink....... that would be a code 24. After you are done you can clear the codes by pulling the EFI fuse (15A) in the fuse block right next to the diagnostic connector for 30 seconds or more, make sure the engine is off.
did all that^^
all except pull the efi fuse because cel didnt light up at all...should i pull the fues wait plug it back in and try it again?
Your ECU may need to re-learn idle after pulling the fuse. Don't be alarmed if it runs a little crazy for a bit after pulling the fuse.
Ok so i couldn't open the fuse box without disconnecting the negative battery cable. wouldn't it defeat the purpose of pulling the fuse if it resets the codes after disconnecting the battery? I also looked in my tsrm and it said not to start the car when you put the paper clip in. It said to just put it in the "on" position. ill go try it w/o starting the car now.
ml43;1474989 said:
ic pipes are intact but i could have a boost leak which could cause this problem too since the computer thinks its getting the extra air and injects more fuel and then it runs rich right?
ok did it with the key in the "on" position and it continually blinked so that means no codes but is that because i disconnected the negative cable and pulled the fuse so it reset itself?
Yeah, you cleared any codes you might have had when you did that. If you had any, they may re-set after a short drive.dmiller;1475020 said:
-AM3
Another MkIII;1475029 said:
ill find out when i drive it today. see if i make it more than a mile and a half from my house today.
ok well i made it a couple of days without any problems until today and now its sitting in a parking lot. im going to replace the cps wires and see if that clears up the problem.
dmiller;1475015 said:
Is it a Haynes or Chilton's?
If so, walk to nearest trash can and throw it away. There is better information on this site than that book could ever offer.
And IJ has practically memorized the real Toyota repair manual anyway.
nick88;1476563 said:
LOL that's where people have the very incorrect impression about me!
Sorry NEVER owned a GTE or used ANY of the GTE Electronics, I'm more than happy to leave the stock electronics questions to those that know ie) JetJock/Figgie and numerous others here.
But if a car can tell me where it's hurting (codes) I'll take advantage of this before playing musical components to try and find the problem.
nick88;1476581 said:
Enough differences though....
Never did much with GE electronics either my GE ran perfectly in stock trim and pretty well soon as I started playing around with NA-t I went full standalone.
ok i tried the paper clip and now the cel stays on and doesn't blink. so its not blinking for codes and it isn't continuously blinking saying there aren't any codes. what does that mean?