It is very scary and indeed it is the primary power. can't be safe... If I remember correctly the black/orange wire was dead regardless of ignition position if the jumper wire wasn't connected. I will recheck this evening to be 100% but I'm about 75% sure as is.
Need assistance determining what a wire is for
- Thread starter vaboy
- Start date
Ahh I just saw your pic, you are definitely jacked into the AM2 IG2 circuit and 12v is being applied likely from one of the many power sources in your engine bay fuse box (black w/ red). It would appear from a glance that either your am2 fuse is gone or your efi fuse, have you checked those yet? You should have 12v at the efi fuse (make sure jumper wire is disconnected) It's hard to know if it's am2 or just efi as both wires feed essential starting systems.
You didn't update on sf so just checking up on ya
edit: as to your post just above if your B/O at the fuel injector resister has no power then its fairly certain that your big AM2 fuse in the engine bay block has blown or miraculously your big white wire going from the battery to the block splitting off to AM2 has become disconnected which also means in theory your efi fuse should be lacking 12v.
You didn't update on sf so just checking up on ya
edit: as to your post just above if your B/O at the fuel injector resister has no power then its fairly certain that your big AM2 fuse in the engine bay block has blown or miraculously your big white wire going from the battery to the block splitting off to AM2 has become disconnected which also means in theory your efi fuse should be lacking 12v.
Hey Suzie, I doubt the AM2 fuse or EFI fuse is blown, easy to check though. EFI Main Relay, that the IG2 circuit is tied into and getting power from, is powered by the EFI fuse, which is inturn powered by the 30A AM2 fuse. So to power the system and get the engine to run, the AM2 fuse would have to be good as well as the EFI fuse. Which it does.
So a fault exists at some point between the fuse box in the engine bay and the ignition switch. I would start by checking to see if pin 8 on the body side of the connector for the ignition switch has 12v.
To access this you will need to look under the dash at the steering column.
So a fault exists at some point between the fuse box in the engine bay and the ignition switch. I would start by checking to see if pin 8 on the body side of the connector for the ignition switch has 12v.
To access this you will need to look under the dash at the steering column.
Good points too however if you power the b/o at the resister with 12v then it's just gonna travel back to other circuits that are joined to this same one and power them up too so it's likely the efi fuse is probably fine and am2 is just out, or the solder join on the back of the ignition has broken or a really bad car alarm install/immobiliser trick 
But the IGSW signal that tells the ECU to activate the EFI Main Relay is on the IG2 circuit. Where is it getting a signal from if the AM2 fuse is out? No power is coming across the jumper until the main relay activates. It can't activate until it get an IGSW signal. I'm still trying to figure out where this signal is coming from. What I don't see in the TSRM is what pin 5 of the ignition switch is connected to on the body side. It connects to IG2 when the key is in the start position. That could be source of power during starting to activate the EFI main relay, emphasis on the could, it's an unknown at the moment. Just like any other wiring shenanigans going on with the OP's car. I have a few other ideas but no reason to go chasing those rabbits until we have more information.
The jumper he has in the engine bay is powering at the injector resister pack. So it's live all the time, only way he can kill it is to stall it then when he pulls the key out it's switching off from the key. At least how I see it, however if that is indeed the case then that would suggest that injector resister, coils all have 12v soon as the wire is connected (ign or 12v perma), vaboy needs to confirm this stuff with us so we can get an idea. The wire he's jumped from is a b/r (which could be the wire going to the diagnostic connecter in the engine bay, all I can really see is that its under the fusebox) which is usually ignition fired ain't it? Eh it's 7am and I haven't slept yet... hopefully more answers tomorrow coz this thread actually bugs me I wanna know if its the am2 fuse lol
I wanna know if its the am2 fuse lol
Na, look again. The wire that the jumper is connected to on the other end is the Black/Red coming off pin 4 of the EFI Main Relay. So that wire will only receive power when the EFI Main Relay is activated by the M-rel signal, which the ECU turns on when it receives a IGSW signal from the IG2 circuit at the ignition switch. Since the IG2 circuit is the one receiving power from the EFI Main Relay, this is why the engine won't turn off even when the OP turns the ignition switch off. It's kind of a self sustaining loop. It can't activate though without an initial 12v signal on the IG2 circuit. The signal doesn't stay there like it should, as evidenced by the OP testing 0V even with the ignition on, and the jumper removed.
So I tried testing that. The only ones I found 12v on we're 1 and 5. I tried lining it up like the picture but 7,8 have nothing in those spots. I tried uploading a pic. Dunno if it worked. If I had it backwards even though it seemed correct the 4,8 would have 12v. Obviously I was checking the side that runs up to the ignition but not the side that connects to the ignition. 
The picture shows from the ignition switch side. So for the body side, the numbers connect up the opposite way. You actually have power on pin 4 and 8, which is correct. It also means your AM2 fuse is good. Interestingly there is no pin 5.
Next go to the ignition side of the connector. So the numbers will be as shown:
With the ignition switch in the on position test for continuity between pins 8 and 7. If there is none, test again while holding the ignition in the start position.
Next go to the ignition side of the connector. So the numbers will be as shown:
With the ignition switch in the on position test for continuity between pins 8 and 7. If there is none, test again while holding the ignition in the start position.
That's good. The ignition is doing what it is supposed to do. The thing is, that Black/Orange wire that comes out of pin 7 is the same one you were testing for 12V out in the engine compartment that was jumpered. For some reason it is not receiving power from the ignition switch. you showed pin 8 has 12v and there is continuity through the ignition switch. so we have to move down the line to figure out where the break is.
The next test point will be a yellow connector near the ECU called B1(pin 17). It is located behind the glovebox. You will need to remove the glove box, and the plastic liner behind it to access it.
P.S. You did re-verify that there is no power going to the Black/Orange wire out in the engine bay with the ignition on? If you need to recheck, remember to plug the ignition switch connector back in before you test.
The next test point will be a yellow connector near the ECU called B1(pin 17). It is located behind the glovebox. You will need to remove the glove box, and the plastic liner behind it to access it.
P.S. You did re-verify that there is no power going to the Black/Orange wire out in the engine bay with the ignition on? If you need to recheck, remember to plug the ignition switch connector back in before you test.
Which side? Male or female?
Edit: Sorry I forgot to mention that the ignition need to be on when testing.
Edit: Sorry I forgot to mention that the ignition need to be on when testing.
Ok, verify that both pins(17) look ok, and reconnect the connector. Then turn the ignition on and retest for 12v on the Black/Orange wire out in the engine compartment.
Lol, figures. I hate not having a reason for something to fix itself. Never gives me confidence that it won't come back. Well wrap the bare spot on those wires. Fix that white wire. And test it out for awhile.