hey guys, im lookin to buy a turbo that is good for 600whp without too much lag. ive looked at just about every company- sound, turbonetics, precision....and nothing has stood out. i figure its gotta be at least 66/67mm (turbonetics t66 is wat im leaning towards) i also have a re-welded ebay manifold and pit 40mm wastegate im thinkin on using but not sure. any input would be appreciated. and the engine is more than capable-bored .020, balanced, oversized valves, aeromotive a1000 pump and regulator, 1/2in fuel lines, whole nine yards. i just got car running not too long ago and already blew up turbonetics turbo (it was temporary anyway)- im running around on stock for now and its KILLING ME!! thanks a lot.
need a 600whp turbo-any suggestions?
- Thread starter supra_ed
- Start date
when you say precision, sp, turbonetics, etc they are all GARRETT turbos with custom or matched/mismatched housings. They all have garrett internals.
I bought a GT42 94 from turbos direct in AZ for about 1200
I bought a GT42 94 from turbos direct in AZ for about 1200
sp67gtq, sound performance, makes about 500 wrhp on a 7m with stock cams at about 19psi on pump gas. im a pretty positive itll make 600 on race gas at maybe 25-29 psi.
im actually considering that turbo right now. 500hp's on pump gas at 19psi is pretty sweet.
im actually considering that turbo right now. 500hp's on pump gas at 19psi is pretty sweet.
I did 640 rwhp with the ignition breaking up at 29 psi with my SP67GT with a .81 a/r turbine housing and a p trim wheel. I installed an HKS DLI which got the ignition fixed and ran 32 psi on the street. I made 604 rwhp at 26 psi with the same turbo and a .68 a/r housing on it and 525 rwhp at 19 psi. I also ran an HKS 40 mm standard wastegate with a 10.2 psi spring.
supra_ed said:
Precision usually makes the GT4067R.
It's a hybrid turbo. GT40R center BB center cartridge, PT67 Compressor, and whatever turbine you want. Probably the best turbo money can buy in the 60-70mm range. Easily capable of 720whp+ on 30psi.
Yes, it's expensive. But the whole point of going single turbo is the single turbo. Do not cheap out.
If you do cheap out, an ITS GT66 will do around 650whp at 30psi. My friend Shane was doing 646whp consistantly on his MKIV. For some reason even with 1.7 60ft's, he couldn't get into the 10's with that turbo. It had horrible lag. My GT4088 would out spool it on my 1JZGTE by 1000rpms.
If you're using a automatic transmission and want 600whp, you'll need at least a PT70GTS. If you're TH400 with an unlocked converter, for 600whp, you'll need at least a PT76GTS.
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supra_ed said:
Like Brent said, stop talking to these people... Atleast, stop taking advice from them... Its obvious they dont know wtf they're talking about...supra_ed said:
As for the GT4067R, I have one... I dunno how well it performs, but it LOOKS nice...
*I have a very long and on going build right now* Nate has one as well, and it put down some pretty sick numbers... If you want to save the money, dont get the DBB option, just get the GT4067, or really any of the GT40 series turbos would be good for 600+hp...well, as my luck would have it (right in the middle of my turbo shopping) if jacked my newly built engine up pretty good last night. blew a heater hose, it instantly over heated and i believe fried every damn piston ring. the compression test is the worst ive ever seen. a years worth of hard work down the toilet (i did all the work myself). man...talk about a kick in the nuts. but i think im gonna part her out- im gonna give myself a couple of weeks to think about it. this sucks. DAMN TOYOTA!!!
supra_ed said:
That's terrible.
Two words that will help keep any turbocharged engine alive:
Preventative Maintenance
Every time I have someone walk in the shop and ask "how big a turbo can we put on my engine?" or "what would it take to make 500whp?", the first thing out of my mouth is "have you gone through your cooling system recently and replaced all the hoses that look questionable?"
Wait wait... you spent a year rebuilding your engine, and you DIDN'T replace every single hose you touched?
I thought that was SOP when rebuilding...
Further, if the hose just popped off, you should have immediately shut the car off (I'm assuming you did) - I have *never* in my life seen piston rings 'fry' (and just who the hell calls it 'frying the rings' - I've broken rings, swollen rings, improperly set the rings, hammered the rings, introduced enough cylinder pressure to accelerate the wear on the rings, but never 'fried' the rings) - odds are, if all the coolant suddenly evacuated, your warped the head/blew the gasket to hell.
Pull the head, and check, before making a decision.
Just my .02
I thought that was SOP when rebuilding...
Further, if the hose just popped off, you should have immediately shut the car off (I'm assuming you did) - I have *never* in my life seen piston rings 'fry' (and just who the hell calls it 'frying the rings' - I've broken rings, swollen rings, improperly set the rings, hammered the rings, introduced enough cylinder pressure to accelerate the wear on the rings, but never 'fried' the rings) - odds are, if all the coolant suddenly evacuated, your warped the head/blew the gasket to hell.
Pull the head, and check, before making a decision.
Just my .02