NA/T conversion (I know, another one)

[JesseH]

Ok, I know this has been asked a thousand times, but I wanted to know if anybody has a straight up list with everything needed to do a safe NA/T conversion with using a GE block and head, while running a low boost 6 to 7psi (anything is better than a NA). I was about to do the whole engine swap but with me having to pay for collage here soon I'm not going to be able to afford that. Thanks for your help in advance.

 

[artmo]

http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=27725

 

[JesseH]

http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=27725

Im taking about using GE electronics and ECU, that has the parts list for the GTE electronics swap, what parts would I need to makeup for not using the GTE electronics??

 

[artmo]

sorry cant help you there good luck.

 

[CRE]

Im taking about using GE electronics and ECU, that has the parts list for the GTE electronics swap, what parts would I need to makeup for not using the GTE electronics??

MAFT PRO, might as well switch over to a MAP system while you're at it.



Off the top of my head here's a quick list:
GTE injectors
Exhaust manifold
Turbo (duh)
Oil pan with oil return bung added for the turbo
Oil cooler
Oil filter relocation kit
IC
Downpipe
AFPR
Fuel controller <-- MAFT PRO or SAFC, etc.
Timing controller (highly recommended) <-- MAFT PRO or MSD6, etc.
Boost controller (recommended) <-- MAFT PRO, etc.
Fuel pump

Make sure your HG, rings and valve stem seals are up to the task.

 

[JesseH]

MAFT PRO, might as well switch over to a MAP system while you're at it.



Off the top of my head here's a quick list:
GTE injectors
Exhaust manifold
Turbo (duh)
Oil pan with oil return bung added for the turbo
Oil cooler
Oil filter relocation kit
IC
Downpipe
AFPR
Fuel controller <-- MAFT PRO or SAFC, etc.
Timing controller (highly recommended) <-- MAFT PRO or MSD6, etc.
Boost controller (recommended) <-- MAFT PRO, etc.
Fuel pump

Make sure your HG, rings and valve stem seals are up to the task.

ok, thanks for the info. and ive already got my fuel pump and ign. upgraded so I don't have to worry about that. Now with the HG, My engine was swaped in 1998 with a JDM N/A with a new toyota HG will that handle it ok or will I need a HKS or Cosmetic one??

 

[Facime]

Stock HG shoul be fine so long as it was torqued to 72-75 lbs and you dont run more than about 10lbs boost (which will be close to fuel cut anyway)

 

[CRE]

Will a 1/2 N/A-T even have fuel cut? Remember he;s going to be running the N/A electronics.

 

[Facime]

hmm...ya got me there. regardless, you wont want to run more than about 10lbs with an NA-T because of the high compression. beyond that is pretty much a waiting game...waiting to blow it up!

 

[CRE]

Yeah, a stock HG will last for a good amount of time if you're not pushing the boost past 6-7psi and you're not always driving like a madman.

Anyone remember how the psi on a GE block compares to a GTE block? I saw a comparison before. Something along the lines of 7psi on a GE = 10psi on a GTE... At any rate it's easy to see how you can go through stock HG's real quick if you start really pushing the boost.

 

[swaq]

To lower the compression you'd need a thicker head gasket, right?

 

[tlo86]

save up for a 7mgte, its easier. the new designed toyota HG will work fine

 

[NA86.5]

I should be doing this swap in the next few months if everything goes right. I will also be using the GE electronics as well.I have written that list down and will start getting the parts together as soon as I can.

 

[1TuffSupra]

Here is some good info on the 1/2 NA-T. This is where I started before compiling a shit load of parts and dumping in a bunch of money, lol. I also am in the process of going 1/2 NAT. Im getting down to the last little cheap bits I need here and there to get it all done. And do some searching on supraforums for posts made by jong. you can follow his complete process and learn a lot.

http://www.geocities.com/jt87na/na-t.html

And another good link with info on what the NA block is capable of

http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2609&page=4&pp=10

some info from someone with actual experience w/ a NA-T from the last link I posted.

With the ITS turbo I am running right now the car made over 500RWHP. Stock GE pistons (cast hypereutectic just like the turbo pistons), 550s, Rebic LC, head and manifold porting and a few other little things. I was able to hurt a N/A piston because of a failed Aeromotive fuel pressure regulator which dropped the pressure while on a 16psi run. The drop in pressure caused detonation which lead to a cracked ring land. Running the N/A pistons brings you closer to the raged edge and things do break if a minor system fails.

When running over 400RWHP you should really have a fuel pressure gauge with a warning light. I did not install it on the brown car because it is my "driver" and did not think I would ever look for over 300HP. But, things change, LOL. The block and crank were not hurt at all. The piston suffered 2 cracks on the #2 ring land. Easy to fix.

Anyhow, the GE pistons/comp ratio work fine with the GTE electronics. Just be sure to run good fuel and if you upgrade the turbo and/or start pushing over 14psi things must be monitored much more closely.

The brown Supra has become more of a "test bed" for new ideas on the 7M so I did not mind "breaking it". Gives me a reason to pull the motor and try something new since I can not get it to blow a head gasket.

The highest "safe" boost to run on the N/A pistons assuming that your fuel system is up to snuff is 12 psi. If you run a more efficient turbo or better intercooler then you can bump up to 14psi. Run a good fuel computer and larger injectors and the aforementioned you can see 16psi. Run some form of timing control along with athe aforementioned and you can see 18psi. Race gas and the aforementioned: 20psi.

Runnig 10psi or less and stock ignition timing should cause no problems.