yeah, i'll take it out for a spin before i paint the rims tomorrow if i have the timesupramacist said:
Na Bhg?
- Thread starter MKivSupra_Rob
- Start date
MKivSupra_Rob said:
First, about oil in the intake piping; Although this is not very nice, it is normal. Oil gets sucked in from the PCV pipe connected to the top of the valve covers. Caution: Do not seal this off in an attempt to stop it. You could add a catch can but let's not worry about that right now. Just leave it alone.
Now, about oil in the coolant; My son's N/A was doing the same thing recently. It was also putting out white smoke in the exhaust. There were no traces of coolant in the oil however (not sure why). So, I ran a leakdown test and found that #4 was causing a very small amount of air bubbling up in the radiator. I had a soda bottle on the overflow hose and found it would push out 1/2 cup of coolant while under pressure for 5 minutes. This was a small leak and probably preliminary to a bad one. Bottom line - BHG. However, I knew the HG had been replaced by Toyota a few years ago so I figured what have I got to lose. I retorqued the head and IT FIXED IT! No air bubbles and no more white smoke. At least for now. Time will tell if it comes back.
You might want to try the retorque. It is a pretty simple procedure and like I said at this point, what have you to to lose? If you do, remember to flush out your cooling system after since the exhaust gases from the BHG will leave some corrosive acid type stuff in the coolant. Good luck.
Positive outlook, strong message. I'm thinking that this is one that the entire family can go to and be happy with. You guessed it..., two thumbs up, nice idea, seriously.
JAB89 said:
Makes sense, thanks so much! What should i retorque it too? (not sure if Na is the same as 7mgte for this)
MKivSupra_Rob said:
I think the general consensus of opinion is 72 to 75 ft lbs with the stock Toyota head bolts. The Toyota TSRM calls for 58 ft lbs which is just too low. I torqued mine to 72. Understand that you must tighten the bolts in the correct sequence when doing this. Here are links to a Retorque writeup and the tightening sequence in the TSRM. You can click on the tightening sequence pic within the Retorque writeup and print it off to refer to while you are working. Oh and I did back off each bolt 1/4 turn (Max) before retorquing it. This breaks it loose first so the bolt is free when applying the new torque value. I used a torque wrench (the old pointer style) to break it loose because I was curious as to what they were set at. Most of mine were about 55 lbs but two were at 45lbs and one was at 20 lbs (pretty low, huh?). You will need a 10mm allan head socket for the head bolts. I picked up a set at Harbor Freight for $10 (link to a similar set here also). The set I actually bought is part# 35183 but I could not find it online.
http://www.cygnusx1.net/supra/techtip/head_retorque.html
http://www.cygnusx1.net/supra/library/TSRM/em/EM_55.html
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=93193
Now, if you are interested in also doing a Leakdown test, here is a link for that. I used a compression tester with a quick disconnect from Harbor Freight (link here also). The hose in the tester will screw into the spark plug hole and also snap into an air compressor or portable air tank. Plus, you also have a nice compression tester if you didn't already.
http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2229
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=92720
Have fun and good luck.
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Thanks for the good words supramacist. Not sure this is the thread for it but briefly, my car is a Burgandy 89 Turbo Targa 5-speed which I bought new. It is a cream puff that just turned 100k miles. Mods are minimal, K&N FIPK, 3" exhaust all the way with no cats, shimmed wastegate to 10.5 psi which resulted in, you guessed it - BHG.supramacist said: