My Supra's Chronicles (400hp goal)

[TomFraser]

Figured I would start a thread in here because I have pictures of my BHG change and figured I'd post them.

I'll start with my Supra history though.

My very first car was a 1988 N/A 5 Speed.

Drove it for about 2000 miles and it rod knocked.

Pulled the engine as a learning experience and parted it out, still have it (see pictures below) and miss it. Since it died I always wonder what would have happened if it lived, would've saved me a lot of money, and life experiences.

My Next car was a land rover discovery 1995, and I loved "The Rover"

I truly beat the hell out of this car, and replaced/serviced almost everything. I would've kept it forever but I found my dream supra (for the most part).

The supra that this gallery is on is a 1987 Turbo with every option offered that year. When I saw the ad for it at 1500 I really wanted it. Turbo/Targa/TEMS (but auto).

Florida Car, came up to new hampshire around 2000, and just sat.

The car needed a new turbo, had an ants nest somewhere in it, bees nest in the gas door, needed interior work, and had sat an entire New Hampshire winter. It had a BHG, but it was replaced with felpro and arp studs.

Driving it home it decided to shut off and sit on the side of the highway right as I got into Massachusetts. I had no idea what the issue was, it had no fuel pressure when I loosened the bolt on the fuel rail so I checked all electrical parts for that and nothing came up. Ended up towing it home the day I bought it.

Dropped the fuel tank and was ready to smack myself. The gas in the tank was about 8 or 9 years old (from 1999/2000) and had ruined the filter sock.

Drained fuel tank, Replaced the fuel pump, fuel filter, fuel sock, and put the tank back on with gas. Started up fine. Decided to die on the way to a gas station. Towed home. The temp gauge would rise with the tach so I checked grounds and the ground on the intake manifold was very loose. Fixed this and now had no power to ECU, checked fuse and found this to be very loose, so I tightened the fuse holder and put it back. Car started excellent.

My next fix was the turbo. Got a semi decent one and swapped it in, After doing the swap I have to say I truly hate the oil lines going to the turbo.

Drove for a while and the car began having problems with the maf. Replaced it with a MAFTPRO and AEM UEGO

Alternator Dies, and I replaced with some egay one.

Drove for a while, installed Tokiko Struts, Eibach Springs, 3 inch exhaust, APEXI N1 Muffler, BIC DDP (recirculated)

Put on a HKS SSQV and K+N Filter and upped the boost a little with a Hallman Boost Controller

My Christmas Present from parents was new brakes, so I have all new calipers rotors, pads, etc. (installed by me)

SUMMARY:

AFTERMARKET:
Maft Pro
BIC DDP Rerouted
3 Inch Exhaust
Apexi N1 Exhaust
K&N Intake
Hallman Boost Controller
AEM UEGO wideband
HKS SSQV BOV
Tokiko Struts
Eibach Springs
HKS Turbo Timer

OEM SPEC REDONE:
Brake Rotors
Brake Calipers
Fuel Filters
Alternator
All Belts (not Timing)
Hoses

And then the radiator "pops" on the highway. I replace with a 5 speed radiator and separate tranny cooler, and have a great trail of smoke behind the car, and a complimentary milkshake in my oil cap

 

[TomFraser]

This is where I'm at now. I have disassembled engine:

My Workspace:

My Head (looks pretty clean as it was tanked, and decked about 8k ago):

My Block(Questions about this block to follow in post below):

Time of Year I'm doing this:

The Old Black Supra:

The Failpro:

Looking at how the gasket failed on cylinder two there is a separation between the copper around the coolant passage the leads into the cylinder. It is very tiny, not a very bad blown head gasket. Any comments, i've never seen someone post one that looked like this.

 

[TomFraser]

So those pictures were taken an hour ago. That is where I stand now.

My Plans:

I've ordered so far:

HKS Bead type 1.2mm MHG
550cc RC Injectors and clips
topend gasket set
NGK wires
AFPR
Walbro Fuel Pump
60-1 CT 26

CT26s (60trim vs stock)

Will Order in the future (don't have the cash to spend on these right now)
Electronic Boost Controller
Larger intercooler
Hard Pipes

I'm having the head looked at and fixed up by a machine shop. (was done 8k ago, shouldn't need much work)

And I'm doing something that will probably be controversial, but I'm doing it anyways. Knowing the block was resurfaced 8k ago I will be starting with 60 grit sandpaper, and ending with 1000+ to smooth the block surface. I am taking a level and attaching the sand paper and going back and forth in circular motions. There is another build thread somewhere that someone did this and was successful with a MHG so I figure the fact that my block already has been resurfaced should help my cause.

After all these mods I hope to make about 400hp and stay there. I'm 18 and that's already too much

Other Maintenance I will be doing while i'm at it:
ALL hoses being replaced


I've started with cleaning out all of the pieces i've removed from the engine bay with simple green. Work and school prevent me from working on the car until sunday, but my todo list then will be:

Drill Out J-TUBE
Install Walbro with 12v mod
Begin sanding block

Hopefully having a thread will help me keep motivated. Any comments please post them, I have next to no experience so everyone's advice is useful, and appreciated.

 

[kamikazemkiii]

Looks like you got things goin on bro, Good luck.
on the side note it get a thicker HG if you can.

 

[TomFraser]

I went with 1.2 because the machine shop work receipt I got from the last owner said that the head was not warped, and the amount taken off when worked on was "negligible". Same with the block... "negligible"

From Suprasport:
" HKS Metal Head Gasket for 1986-92 Supra - 1.2mm Bead
This MHG has a bore of 86mm & will not alter your stock compression ratio. This MHG is the most popular selection for just normal maintainence or a mild rebuild."

1.2mm was the gasket to not alter stock compression, and with basically nothing taken off the head and block I figured that was correct. I know IJ says stock compressed HG is 1.37mm, but HKS only offers 1.2 and 2 and 1.2 was closer.

That was my thought process. Did I miss something, should I go with 2mm because it will be more forgiving?

 

[kamikazemkiii]

Well accually, since youve had material taken off the block and head, I would put my money in a thicker headgasket. Why? you already stated that the stock headgasket is 1.37mm compressed so why would you go thinner? and yes you will have slightly higher compression. You dont have to jump all the way up to 2mm but you can measure both head and block and see what size you would need to get to stock compression. How much boost are you planning on running?

 

[TomFraser]

Well accually, since youve had material taken off the block and head, I would put my money in a thicker headgasket. Why? you already stated that the stock headgasket is 1.37mm compressed so why would you go thinner? and yes you will have slightly higher compression. You dont have to jump all the way up to 2mm but you can measure both head and block and see what size you would need to get to stock compression. How much boost are you planning on running?

I figured at about 400hp I will be somewhere between 15-180psi

does HKS offer sizes in between? I know Greddy has a 1.5

 

[kamikazemkiii]

DAYUM 180 is alot! all jokes aside.. yes HKS offers a few more sizes inbetween, bead type has more of a selection than stoppers.
Im sure your aware but your not limited to only HKS, their plenty of other brands if HKS dosent carry what it is your looking for.

 

[TomFraser]

Greddy wins out then... its 217 and 1.5mm I'll have the machine shop let me know exactly how big the head is and compare that to original spec.

If 1.5 is almost exactly what I need (I think it will be) I'll order that.

(Anyone want to buy a 1.2mm HKS?)

 

[kamikazemkiii]

Have the machine shop check it before you purchase, you wont be sure unless you know how much has been taken off both.

 

[TomFraser]

Dropped the head off at the machine shop, it was 115.77mm no warp from the last resurface.

Used http://enginesbyadvanced.com/

Getting the head resurfaced, cleaned, cams washed, inspected. Cost 416 they've done supra heads before, kind of expensive, but this shop does mustangs that run 6 second quarter miles and such, I know they'll do it right.

According to their database (AERA) the stock head is 121mm, but that cannot be right... 116mm is the proper head size. The database also lists the torque spec for the head bolts at 58 so I don't take much stock in it.


Got the walbro installed, drilled out the jtube and my next list of todo is:

Finish block
Fix Fuse Box (not bolted down, main fuse needs to be replaced)
Calibrate TPS
Buy all coolant and vacuum hoses
Put it all back together!


Also sent the HKS headgasket back. Will probabbly end up with the .06in Cometic, but we'll see

 

[supra90turbo]

Nice Supra, Tom! Looks very straight and clean!

I know who you're talking about with the sandpaper block surface, Ray did it, and his car is still going strong.

I'll have to take a ride down there in the spring and check it out. Mini MA Meet or something.

 

[IBoughtASupra]

Ok, take your time. I won't use Cosmetics though since I am an HKS and Greddy person. Also, since your engine is out, take your time because you won't be driving it anytime soon as it is Winter. Clean up the grease from the engine bay and maybe a little paint. Good job on replacing all the hoses, a lot of people skip that. I bought silicone upper and lower radiator hoses and will be ordering a set of the heater core ones as well. When are you expected to get the head back.

Here is a short story about a 7M we built. The head was milled from the previous owner and so was the block. The timing cover was milled as well, which was a good thing. Here is the crazy part, the block was milled so much that the top of the piston was sticking out of the block, about a 1/4" out of the block. I used a HKS 1.2MM headgasket and ARP studs torqued to 90ft/lbs. When we started that engine, it sounded nice. It had a lot of low end torque that a rev up to 1300RPM and popping the clutch would create one crazy burnout. We sold that car though. I have no clue what the compression on that engine was.

 

[dubsupra209]

good build ill be makeing my build thread soon all though my goal are high 200s maybe 300hp i might be interested in that head gasket when i find out how much they have to take off so ill keep in contact with you...good luck with your build..

 

[TomFraser]

Nice Supra, Tom! Looks very straight and clean!

I know who you're talking about with the sandpaper block surface, Ray did it, and his car is still going strong.

I'll have to take a ride down there in the spring and check it out. Mini MA Meet or something.

definitely, would be cool to see some of the supra's around here.

After i'm at my power goals I hope to clean the car up cosmetically, so it will be fun to kind of show off

 

[TomFraser]

UPDATE:

My head is junk... warped and the cams have been eating away at everything around them... off by about 12 thousands of an inch

Ordered a head from http://cylinder-heads.com/

cost was 425 shipped, and free box and shipping label to send core back.

It is a 7mge head, different intake cam, I might leave it in, not sure yet, any input?
Comes with valves and cams in the head, ready to use (It will be inspected however)

Next work done was rewiring my maft pro setup, I did kind of a hack job before and fixed it up very nicely, the maft pro now sits right in front of the shifter under the radio, I like this.

Ordered an AVCR boost controller, will mount that in front of one of the vents.

Other work was prepping the block.

My Steps...

Fill cylinders with oilly paper towels to catch everything that falls into them
RTV sealant in the coolant and oil holes
Sand using flat steel edge and sandpaper on that with spray adehsive
Starting with 220 grit up to 1200

Block came out very decent. I understand this method is highly not recomended, but I did it anyways.

Tested if it was flat with a straight edge across the block, couldn't get feeler gauges in anywhere. So the block is very flat.

Sprayed it with dry graphite and gave it one pass with 1200 grit, the only spot that was lower than the rest was in the very back of the block in the back corner, after a some more sanding in that area it was better.

The thing I was most concerned about was the RA, so I measured it by feeling a peice of glass then feeling the block, and it was pretty close. This works, right IJ?


































lol, just kidding...

My first RA was 240

for the calibration plate (full of jokes today)

For the rest of the block I got nothing more than 26RA

I took a whole bunch more points, but those are some examples. Those numbers are pretty good considering the way the block was prepped. In case anyone is wondering the profilometer is accurate due to the fact that it belongs to lockheed martin and is used to test things on submarines and such that require perfection.

I should mention I plan on using a cometic headgasket as it calls for a surface better than 50RA whereas HKS wants 20RA or better. Cometic also is very good about custom sizes.


So thats where I stand, I figure if i'm going to not do it properly, I'm going to do the absolute best half assed job I can, any comments?

 

[Harley]

Great looking build.
I'm currently doing one as well (not touching any internals though, the heads already been machined, shaved and ported for me )
But if you're going to replace all the hoses definitely take the time to replace them all while the engine is out.
I tried with it it and some vacuum and fuel lines that run along side of the block are absolutely impossible to get to with the engine in.
So take your time and wait until you can do it all with the engine out, it will save you some monster headaches later on down the track.
I'll be keeping a close eye on this build for sure

 

[92nsx]

Looks like the block is ready for the MHG

 

[sirgeorgee]

Nice Supra

Keep us posted and gl with the build...

 

[TomFraser]

Lets hope... its still kind of rolling the dice, but at least this way i'm "loading" them a little bit