My supra project-->FML

AJK

New Member
Oct 28, 2007
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Calgary
So three years ago I save up and purchase my first car (very exciting). Having been addicted to supras since I can remember, I already knew what to buy. I found my supra in the form of a 1988 Canadian spec, MA70 5-speed. It was far from perfect on the outside but, according to the previous owner, had a fresh motor and should last well. $3500 and the car was mine. It was awesome and saw me to school and work every day.

Christmas time, three months after purchase, rod knock struck (FML). Christmas eve vandals struck, shattered glass all around. At this point i decide to research, learn, and develop skills pertaining to automotives, so I decide the 2jz swap is for me. Well it took longer than I'd hoped but two years later I had gathered all the necessary parts and, for the most part, knowledge. I grabbed a motor from a local engine importation emporium, 2jz gte complete with ecu, all accessories, uncut wiring harness, and auto tranny. The motor seemed to be from a 1993+ aristo, although the company wasn't entirely sure.

Moving on. Four months ago it's all together, installed, charged, and cranking, but that's about it. At first, no spark no injection. I thought a wiring hickup or ecu malfunction. Of course not, after checking continuity and voltage readings from EVERYWHERE (it seemed), turned out to be a missing ground (wiring harness done by Dr. Tweak, phoenix tuning, of course it's flawless). So I now had spark and fuel, and cranking but sitll no start! (ARRRGGG). Take apart the timing covers, redo timing, new belt for kicks. Perfect timing, still no start. I hear from those smarter than I, that I should check compression, so I do.......60 30 60 30 30 30 (FML) Bad motor. Great. Engine importer says they can't do anything to help.

It's been three years, I've driven my car three months, and am considering getting my third motor, but being a student in aviation ($$$$) I'm also considering calling it quits with the supra. If you were in my position, what would you do? Any advice at all would be wonderful. Is the engine rebuildable? (I've heard that a new motor is needed).

Pics as soon as loaded onto computer.
 

2quickk

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Jun 22, 2009
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Prosser
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if the funds are there and you can find an engine from a reputable co. then buy another. If not, i'd find a 7m block and head, buy arp head studs and hks hg, tranny, put it together and be done.

or






::hang::
 

supra1642

New Member
Aug 28, 2007
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Michigan
sorry to hear that, life's not fair. but if you have the available funds i would rebuild the 2jz. when you buy engines from importers it's hit or miss so its usually a good idea to just rebuild it before you put it in the car. just so you know for the future. good luck with your decision.
 

AJK

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Oct 28, 2007
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Calgary
What all is involved in a rebuild? Like I said, I'm learning as I go and I know slim to none about rebuilds. What kinda pricing would I likely be looking at?
 

AJK

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Oct 28, 2007
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Calgary
AJK;1373114 said:
What all is involved in a rebuild? Like I said, I'm learning as I go and I know slim to none about rebuilds. What kinda pricing would I likely be looking at?

Anyone?
 

CyFi6

Aliens.
Oct 11, 2007
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Do a leakdown test, to get 30 PSI you need something majorly wrong.. Try putting some oil in there and see how much your numbers jump. Leakdown will tell you exactly where it is leaking though. You could have something as simple as sticking valves, you never know.
 

AJK

New Member
Oct 28, 2007
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Calgary
Sorry it took ages for this, been a touch busy. Any and all input would be appreciated.


p1385186_1.jpg

Pistons out of the 7mgte, first cylinder on the right, sixth on the left. What's the deal with the 2nd?


p1385186_2.jpg

One carbon built, one clean...both untouched/uncleaned after removal.


p1385186_3.jpg

Rods 1 to 3 (left to right) All are undamaged, and up for sale.


p1385186_4.jpg

Rods 4 to 6 (left to right) No damage is apparent, but the darker color shows which rod was knocking. (engine removed AS SOON as knocking was apparent)


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Bearing from 6th rod.


p1385186_6.jpg

6th rod had no wear marks different from any of the other rods.



Here we transition to 2JZGTE

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Valve covers off. What's the deal with the coloring/carbon build up?


p1385186_8.jpg

Again, what is the deal with the coloring? Is that abnormal? It looked very different from the 7M (the only other upper valve train I have seen).


p1385186_9.jpg

GF's 1972 Ford Maverick.
 

AJK

New Member
Oct 28, 2007
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Calgary
I tried my hand at some custom downpipe fabrication, better pics when it's off again. 3" stainless, nice and straight with no crush bends! Heads straight into a brand new HKS super dragger.

p1385190_1.jpg
 

AJK

New Member
Oct 28, 2007
62
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Calgary
Picked up a new supra! Something to drive while I fix the '88. New one is a '91 twin turbo-R, no rust, no dents, no scrapes, 120k kms!

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Still has stock engine undercover and stock brake ducts.

Back to the '88. 2JZ head removed, and that's about all the progress with that at the moment.

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AJK

New Member
Oct 28, 2007
62
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Calgary
Picked up a whole different motor, checked compression before I bought it (look, I'm learning!) 160 across the board! Going to pull the bad one, insert good one, and rebuild bad one. I'm very excited to get working on this.

p1440278_1.jpg
 

AJK

New Member
Oct 28, 2007
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Calgary
IJ.;1440281 said:
A bit late but the "clean" piston usually indicates a BHG leaking coolant into that cylinder, this in turn steam cleans the carbon from the piston.

Better late than never! I keep learning, any new info is much appreciated.
 

AJK

New Member
Oct 28, 2007
62
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0
Calgary
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Pictures of engine bay repaint, it'll match the outside once the outside is professionally repainted black.

New engine for gf's maverick!

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