My SAD 7m story

[teamslow]

Lol. I thought you meant the Air/fuels were off at cruising. It's definately normal for them to jump around a little. My car is very heavily modded on the stock ECU and the air/fuel jumps around, but it's always hovering around 14.3.

Good luck, I'm sure it's something simple. But I don't think throwing a standalone EMS is going to help your situation. Our cars run great with mods (even heavy mods) and stock ECU's if everything is working properly.

I have over sized valves, high lift cams, oversized pistons, port and polished head. etc, etc. I cant really say my engine hovers at 14.3 a/f at cruising. its definitely wondering around. it seems more like the stock ecu is fighting the engine to be around 14.7 a/f at cruising.

well i got the car home. 85 mile tow costed me $400 dollars. leaving for vacation tomorrow so i wont be able to diagnose the car until 2 weeks from today.

when i get back, im gonna check the TPS, CPS, IAVC, stock ignitor, stock coils per TSRM.

If those all seems to be good. im gonna put the stock ecu back in, and the lex afm. and re-adjust the CPS per TSRM.

If that doesnt work, I will bring it to Empera.

Also. my AEM EMS is suppose to be a V1. but it has a V2 casing running V2 software. Does anyone have an AEM unit like this? Sean confirmed it is a V1 running V2 software. I bought it from JSCspeed brand new and they said my unit was mailed to me directly from AEM.

another issue is my HKS TEMS. my HKS TEMS is a plug a play unit. nothing was spliced when installed. my tachometer only works when my TEMS is set on soft. does it matter if you have a 87-88 or a 89-92? or maybe my TEMS is for a 1jz? YES! i have used the search tool for the wiring diagram for the HKS TEMS. cannot find it. but i remember seeing it on a thread years ago. could that be effecting my ignition signal. I will plug the stock TEMS back in as well when i get back.

I am so busy with work and grad school. it's so hard to find time to work on my car. i keep the car at my mother's house which is almost 2 hours away. I have no place to store my car where i currently live.

All i wanted to do was drop off my car to a reputable shop. when the car is ready, i pay them. and drive away a happy customer. but it never works out that way. now i am more stressed and inconvenienced than if i tried to just do it myself in the first place.

 

[empera]

dont let these cars get to u. I've been through it and its not worth stressing over it, i guess thats part of the reason why progress on my mk3 is so slow lol....either way i have my dailys and keep the mk3 in the garage until i feel like working on it, in fact i think i "hang" or help others at the shop more than i work on my car lol.

just let me know what you'd like to do and i'll try to help you out.

 

[MRSUPRA]

"I have over sized valves, high lift cams, oversized pistons, port and polished head. etc, etc."

Me too..
The AEM EMS will alow you to raise up the idle since agressive cams don't like to idle low. Other than that, the stock ECU will run ok with those mods.

 

[SupraPieces]

have you tried E Shift Performance? I am in NJ too and these guys do swaps all day... They know their shit... They are one of the only 3 or (i think he said) shops to have ever done a 2j into an M5. I plan on doing as much as i can by myself and if I hit any walls I will give them a shout... www.eshiftpro.com Granted these guys dispose of 7M's because they "can't handle 20lbs of boost without blowing a headgasket"...

 

[MPR]

Megasquirt.

That is all.

 

[teamslow]

have you tried E Shift Performance? I am in NJ too and these guys do swaps all day... They know their shit... They are one of the only 3 or (i think he said) shops to have ever done a 2j into an M5. I plan on doing as much as i can by myself and if I hit any walls I will give them a shout... www.eshiftpro.com Granted these guys dispose of 7M's because they "can't handle 20lbs of boost without blowing a headgasket"...

That is the very first shop I brought my car to for previous work. I was not fully satisfied the couple of times I went there. Eshift does good work but they did not follow my directions completely which made me not want to go there anymore. So i looked for another shop and hoped the new shop i find would follow my direction more precisely. Between M&S Performance, Ivying tuning, and E-shiftperformance, I would say Mike from Eshift is probably the best versed with 7Ms.

Anyways, Empera here on the forum sorted out my issues. I ran into problems because M&S Performance and Ivying tuning dont know 7Ms.

 

[mecevans]

If those shops had a decent oscilloscope you wouldent be having all this trouble.

 

[IBoughtASupra]

No, M&S do not know 7M. You have have a standalone and have full control over your motor. What you can do is just convert to 1ZZ coils. I guarantee that will help you A LOT. It is super easy as well. All you need is a power, ground and signal.

Have you tried a different CPS? You could covert to a cam and crank setup which is not hard at all. That will help you get a better signal than the stock CPS.

If you check all sensors and can't get it running properly, covert to 1ZZ coils to get rid of all the igniter nonsense, less failure points, and try a different CPS and if that fails goner to a cam and crank setup.

You say timing is everywhere and that would really point to the CPS, I doubt it could be anything else but if one of your sensors is giving wrong reading to the standalone, then that could it it as well. Run through all the main sensors and see how they test out. You could do it in the AEM software and see how they read.

Example, key on, what is the TPS voltage, then press throttle all the way, does it read close to 5V?

 

[empera]

Timing issue has been solved. I don't understand how these shops charge so much to do...well...nothing. Either way Mark's 7m will be in the right hands soon...

 

[destrux]

If you don't know what to look for when looking for a problem... you can spend ALOT of time looking and finding nothing. Someone has to pay for that time, because the whole time the shop's tech is looking, the shop's insurance company is charging them for coverage, and the mortgage company is charging. Someone needs to pay for the shops overhead whether they are making progress on your car or just trying to figure out something that's messed up. It's not fair to the customer though if the tech took the job knowing it was over his head.

This is why I don't take a job unless I know it's within my expertise. I hate to waste people's money as much as they do.

I remember one car about 7 years ago where I spent 10 hours looking for an intermittent stalling problem, I couldn't find a damn thing after testing everything, doing wiggle tests, EVERYTHING. I finally ended up pulling the wiring harness and unwrapping it, only to find that a factory crimp had come undone and was pulling apart when the wires would flex a certain way. I got bitched out by the customer's brother for charging $300 to find a broken wire. $300 was about a 60% discount because I felt bad charging for the time I actually spent on it.

This all might be unrelated... I only read the first and last post.