I have both. Like JJ said, the bar type is good when you have to torque and hold.
Most of the time though, I use the clicker.
Most of the time though, I use the clicker.
My old school is showing
- Thread starter Aspec
- Start date
Low Nm - clicker
High Nm - bar
...easier to overtorque the little guys...
But in reality, I most frequently use the "mechanics-arm-type" torque wrench... lazy, I am.
PS It's easier to control the bar with advanced lubes like ARP's... and requires less torque for equal clamp, me thinks.
How much does that little "Snap-On" jobbie run? $$$!
-crisp
High Nm - bar
...easier to overtorque the little guys...
But in reality, I most frequently use the "mechanics-arm-type" torque wrench... lazy, I am.
PS It's easier to control the bar with advanced lubes like ARP's... and requires less torque for equal clamp, me thinks.
How much does that little "Snap-On" jobbie run? $$$!
-crisp
Forgot to mention: I also have an electronic torque "extension" in 1/2 inch. It's from Craftsman I believe. I don't think it's still available but I often see them new on ebay for around $80. Peak hold, settable target, beeps, displays in pounds or newtons, etc. Not bad for the money.
I don't use it much but it's nice to have because of the wide range. 10 to 250 as I recall. I've checked it several times against one of my wrenches and it's always been very close. Since that particular clicker is sent out to be caled once a year for use on aircraft that's not too shabby.
I don't use it much but it's nice to have because of the wide range. 10 to 250 as I recall. I've checked it several times against one of my wrenches and it's always been very close. Since that particular clicker is sent out to be caled once a year for use on aircraft that's not too shabby.
GrimJack said:
So with the engine on a stand would you prefer the beam type to torque the head?
jdub said:
Thanks again gentleman.
(P.S. I also have both :icon_wink )
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Damn tinyurl doesn't seem to be working but check ebay item number: 250130980706
Couple more on there too, one at $40.
The transducer is a tad bulky but it's nice to have a remote readout at times and as I said the range is good. Other firms make these things too but they're way more expensive.
Couple more on there too, one at $40.
The transducer is a tad bulky but it's nice to have a remote readout at times and as I said the range is good. Other firms make these things too but they're way more expensive.
crisp said:
Deffinantly not cheap:$323
http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item...group_ID=17226&store=snapon-store&dir=catalog
I had a friend that worked at wagner that I talked into selling me his because he wanted to upgrade to the 1/2" drive one, so I got a good deal on it. It only goes to 100ft/lbs but if I need a bigger one I just have to ask my friend to let me borrow the 1/2". They also have higher grade versions of them that are extreamly accurate in the $600~$700 area but that is well out of my league. The one I have though is a very nice tool and I have been very happy with it. I'm just a sucker for a high tech tool, just for it's geeky gadget quality. :biglaugh:
No, I'd still go for the click type. If I was doing something to 50 ft/lbs or less I'd use the beam... I don't think I've got the brute power to hold the beam type steady enough to read at higher torques.Aspec said:
GrimJack said:
Yea, torquing the head down is challenging for the bar type that I have, I might get a clicky whenever I'm back into working on cars.
i have both but prefer the clicker because of the ratcheting head. torquing hard to reach bolts becomes that much harder with a beam type because of the absence of a ratchet. and becuase i dont have to be leaning over it when i want to read the torque.