this thread is being made more for searching than input as the swap is already done
this will document my experience on my turbo swap
the car
1989 supra na
The swap was a na-t with full turbo electronics. at the same time I was rebuilding an engine heres what I did
I rebuilt the engine
So I sent the na block out out be machined and ordered a engine rebuild kit for a 7mge from engnbldr.com this kit was only 500 dollars and came with a oil pump pistons and rings
PLEASE PLEASE ALWAYS USE A NEW OIL PUMP WITH A REBUILD
I also went ahead and replaced the oil pump shaft and bearings. ~ 130 from Toyota
I assembled the block myself. Had the head and block surfaced for a 2.0mm HKS metal head gasket I used arp studs torqued to the arp spec. for reference ive used both the arp bolts and studs and in both cases I had to grind down a socket to get it in the head to tighten the bolts and nuts. Be sure to chase the threads in the block with a tap to clean them. I used the turbo valve covers and turbo intake manifold since I had it around. I also used block off plates to remove the egr. I used the mdc na-t kit for the oil lines and oil pressure sender. Obviously I used a turbo fuel rail and injectors. You will not need a turbo thermostat housing only the cover is needed because of the ac temp override port. Run water lines to your turbo it’s easy and worth the effort. Be sure not to use the exhaust gaskets that came in the kit unless they are 100% metal if they have any paper in them go order the Toyota gaskets for the elbow and the manifold to turbo gasket. Also be sure to use Toyota exhaust nuts torqued to spec the napa brass nuts will back off.
Here is what I would have done differently related to the block.
1. go ahead and drill the port for the second knock sensor I am fighting code 52 because I have one knock sensor tied into the two wires I have rewired once and been through two knock sensors
2. be sure to drill and weld in the return bung as high as humanly possible on the oil pan CHECK THE ENGINE MOUNT FOR CLEARENCE. I put my bung to low and had to pull the pan in the car and reweld it.
3. mdcs kit was great but in hindsight I could have done it all myself cheaper but if you want a ready to go kit just call john hes great out of respect for JON I will not list the fittings needed for the turbo oil lines I will however mention that the oil pressure port in the block IS BSP NOT NPT you can find nipple converters on mcmaster
4. I would have used forged pistons instead of the stock ones so I could upgrade the turbo later
5. also give your machinist the arp rod bolts ahead of time so he can machine the rods using them
6. also I would have tapped the egr port in cylinder six and block the egr cooler off instead of the plates
the electronics was a simple swap I used a turbo harness all you need is a cps the ignitor the coil packs the ecu the injector resistor pack thingy and a afm. Buy a new accordion hose from Toyota for like 50 bucks.
I used all my na accessories note that the alternator is underpowered but I haven’t had any problems.
I strongly recommend while doing this swap to go ahead and switch to a aftermarket electric oil pressure guage. I ran the summit unit its backlit was only like 40 bucks. I ran a mechanical boost guage Ted in by the washer pump. I used a earls billet oil filter adapter to run a remote filter mount and a thermostat and a b&m oil cooler. I have a megan racing oil temp guage in the filter (you should install it in your pan)
Turbo
I had a ct26 rebuilt by mdc
Simply put it on hook up the oil and water lines
The water lines are worth it they are simple easy to get to and
Make cool down a little more pleasant for the turbo
Tranny work
My car was already a five speed so I just had to do an r154 swap
I picked up a clutch kit from a local clutch store it has a Toyota pressure plate with a spec 3 disk. Use the turbo flywheel have it machined. Use arp flywheel bolts (the 4age kit). Purchased the stainless clutch slave line from driftmotion with a new slave cylinder and master cylinder. I already had the hard line for the r154 if you don’t you will need it.
Installation is as simple as removal simply swap the turbo electronics for the na electronics and away you go. Be sure to verify the year of your electronics before you buy them (gray plug or yellow).
My swap started on the first try it really is that easy.
one day i will make this better and more detailed with part numbers but right now i have a short attention span
also this engine has been running over 1000 miles and has one autocross win already
this will document my experience on my turbo swap
the car
1989 supra na
The swap was a na-t with full turbo electronics. at the same time I was rebuilding an engine heres what I did
I rebuilt the engine
So I sent the na block out out be machined and ordered a engine rebuild kit for a 7mge from engnbldr.com this kit was only 500 dollars and came with a oil pump pistons and rings
PLEASE PLEASE ALWAYS USE A NEW OIL PUMP WITH A REBUILD
I also went ahead and replaced the oil pump shaft and bearings. ~ 130 from Toyota
I assembled the block myself. Had the head and block surfaced for a 2.0mm HKS metal head gasket I used arp studs torqued to the arp spec. for reference ive used both the arp bolts and studs and in both cases I had to grind down a socket to get it in the head to tighten the bolts and nuts. Be sure to chase the threads in the block with a tap to clean them. I used the turbo valve covers and turbo intake manifold since I had it around. I also used block off plates to remove the egr. I used the mdc na-t kit for the oil lines and oil pressure sender. Obviously I used a turbo fuel rail and injectors. You will not need a turbo thermostat housing only the cover is needed because of the ac temp override port. Run water lines to your turbo it’s easy and worth the effort. Be sure not to use the exhaust gaskets that came in the kit unless they are 100% metal if they have any paper in them go order the Toyota gaskets for the elbow and the manifold to turbo gasket. Also be sure to use Toyota exhaust nuts torqued to spec the napa brass nuts will back off.
Here is what I would have done differently related to the block.
1. go ahead and drill the port for the second knock sensor I am fighting code 52 because I have one knock sensor tied into the two wires I have rewired once and been through two knock sensors
2. be sure to drill and weld in the return bung as high as humanly possible on the oil pan CHECK THE ENGINE MOUNT FOR CLEARENCE. I put my bung to low and had to pull the pan in the car and reweld it.
3. mdcs kit was great but in hindsight I could have done it all myself cheaper but if you want a ready to go kit just call john hes great out of respect for JON I will not list the fittings needed for the turbo oil lines I will however mention that the oil pressure port in the block IS BSP NOT NPT you can find nipple converters on mcmaster
4. I would have used forged pistons instead of the stock ones so I could upgrade the turbo later
5. also give your machinist the arp rod bolts ahead of time so he can machine the rods using them
6. also I would have tapped the egr port in cylinder six and block the egr cooler off instead of the plates
the electronics was a simple swap I used a turbo harness all you need is a cps the ignitor the coil packs the ecu the injector resistor pack thingy and a afm. Buy a new accordion hose from Toyota for like 50 bucks.
I used all my na accessories note that the alternator is underpowered but I haven’t had any problems.
I strongly recommend while doing this swap to go ahead and switch to a aftermarket electric oil pressure guage. I ran the summit unit its backlit was only like 40 bucks. I ran a mechanical boost guage Ted in by the washer pump. I used a earls billet oil filter adapter to run a remote filter mount and a thermostat and a b&m oil cooler. I have a megan racing oil temp guage in the filter (you should install it in your pan)
Turbo
I had a ct26 rebuilt by mdc
Simply put it on hook up the oil and water lines
The water lines are worth it they are simple easy to get to and
Make cool down a little more pleasant for the turbo
Tranny work
My car was already a five speed so I just had to do an r154 swap
I picked up a clutch kit from a local clutch store it has a Toyota pressure plate with a spec 3 disk. Use the turbo flywheel have it machined. Use arp flywheel bolts (the 4age kit). Purchased the stainless clutch slave line from driftmotion with a new slave cylinder and master cylinder. I already had the hard line for the r154 if you don’t you will need it.
Installation is as simple as removal simply swap the turbo electronics for the na electronics and away you go. Be sure to verify the year of your electronics before you buy them (gray plug or yellow).
My swap started on the first try it really is that easy.
one day i will make this better and more detailed with part numbers but right now i have a short attention span
also this engine has been running over 1000 miles and has one autocross win already
