My N/A plan

[TRACKMKIII]

I am going to start with a freshly rebuilt short block, ported and polished head, port match intake manifold, header, ( I am not sure which one because I have not heard any good reveiws on the brands that I know make them. Pacesetter or OBX a little feed back on that would be great.), test pipe and 3 in exhaust. Now here is where I need alot of feed back!! I was thinking about running a thinner MHG to raise compression a little, but I a not sure if the slight increase in compression would be worth the effort? I was also looking into a set off Unorthodox cam gears, but I am not sure that would benefit me very much since I am running stock cams!?!? I am going to run a one piece drive shaft because I can have one made for about the same price as the parts I need to rebuild my current driveshaft, but I was thinking while I am under there why not drop in a light weight flywheel and new clutch. Once again I am not sure who makes the best flywheel and clutch combo!?!? Last but not least DYNO TIME!! While I am at the dyno I am going to play with the adjustments on the actuator the controls when the intake manifold switches in between short and long runner, so I can see what a affects that has on where, when and how much power is made!!:naughty: Once I am settled one all of the parts it shouldn't take more than a 2 month for everything to happen including breaking in the engine. I figure that should hold me over until my next bonus check comes in and thats when I plan on looking for higher compression pistons and a custom set of cams!! :evil2: Let me know what you guys think of my plans

 

[whudafux]

I am going to start with a freshly rebuilt short block, ported and polished head, port match intake manifold, header, ( I am not sure which one because I have not heard any good reveiws on the brands that I know make them. Pacesetter or OBX a little feed back on that would be great.), test pipe and 3 in exhaust. Now here is where I need alot of feed back!! I was thinking about running a thinner MHG to raise compression a little, but I a not sure if the slight increase in compression would be worth the effort? I was also looking into a set off Unorthodox cam gears, but I am not sure that would benefit me very much since I am running stock cams!?!? I am going to run a one piece drive shaft because I can have one made for about the same price as the parts I need to rebuild my current driveshaft, but I was thinking while I am under there why not drop in a light weight flywheel and new clutch. Once again I am not sure who makes the best flywheel and clutch combo!?!? Last but not least DYNO TIME!! While I am at the dyno I am going to play with the adjustments on the actuator the controls when the intake manifold switches in between short and long runner, so I can see what a affects that has on where, when and how much power is made!!:naughty: Once I am settled one all of the parts it shouldn't take more than a 2 month for everything to happen including breaking in the engine. I figure that should hold me over until my next bonus check comes in and thats when I plan on looking for higher compression pistons and a custom set of cams!! :evil2: Let me know what you guys think of my plans

I've heard some pretty good things about Pacesetter manis. How much are u getting the head p&p'ed for?

 

[935motorsports]

compression and cams will be the key

Now, just a rebuild is already going to raise the compression, because the shop is going to shave the head and block. You rarely see a full rebult 7mge so it is already going to make a hair more power then the rest of the crowd.

The stock cams stop making power around 5800 RPM. So there are 2 ways to go about it. You can either make as much torque/power as you can under 5800, or try to make power over 5800. The first option is much cheaper and it is what I would suggest.

If you plan to turbo later, I wouldn't raise the compression at all.

 

[1TuffSupra]

If you plan to turbo later, I wouldn't raise the compression at all.

That info is key here. Before you jump into this project and do all of this work what are your power goals? If you just want a reasonably quick ride and like the idea of being NA then go for it. But if your going to raise the compression ratio you should do it with a nice set of domed pistons rather than shaving the head down and using a thinner headgasket. Be forwarned though, if you think you will ever want any more than ~250 hp you probably shouldnt raise the compression ratio too much, if at all.

 

[TRACKMKIII]

With this particular car I want to stay N/A and in the fiture when I am ready to drive something with crazy amounts of power I will just by a Turbo Supra.

 

[tubbie]

Thinner hg, shave head, and shave block. The higher the compression, the more power. Just make sure you use 93 octane all the time.

 

[Toyotaxtreamteam]

hey i already use 93 for my baby N/A don't know why but i feel in warmer wether during the summer it will run better with the 93

 

[BosoMKII]

If you are rebuilding the motor anyway, get your compression from the pistions. Shaving the block and head is par for the course, but is not going to net you any siginifigant gains in HP by its self.
Adjustible cam gears won't do much on the stock cams, wait and throw them on at the same time you drop in new cams, then go to the dyno and have them dialed in.
With an N/A motor, all your power is going to come from the upper revs. So long as you stick to a reasonable upper limit for peak power, say 6500-7000rpm you won't have to get some crazy cam profiles and kill the driveability.
Don't know much about what brand is good for the flywheel. I had a Fidanza on my last car and it was great. I have only ever used ACT clutches. They work great, never any problems. Don't get anything too crazy. Stick to a full face sprung hub disc and a pressure plate that is rated over the max torque your engine will make, but not WAY over. Too-stiff pedals are not fun. It gets old quick.
I did a lot of searching about headers before I bought a set. Seems like OBX and Pacesetter are the same, but OBX is stainless. Get those if you can find them, I couldn't so I got Pacesetter. They drilled the flange wrong so it didn't fit right! Had to hacksaw off a chunk of the flange.

 

[TRACKMKIII]

The only reason I said that I would just shave the head and use a thinner MHG is because I can't find a set of higher comp-ressin pistons and I can't really afford to have a custom set built at this point in time. I am actually sending the block and the head off the the machine shop in 2 weeks for the P&P and resurface for the MHG. I asked the guy to let me know the exact amount of material he is taking off so I can figure out exactly what my CP ratio will be. I think I am just going to run the 1mm HKS piece. I already have my Pacesetter header and on Thurday I am having the rested of the exhuast done. I am going to the header cut at the "Y"section and enlarged to 3 inches into a test pipe and 3 inches the rest of the way back. :naughty: (I can't wait!!) Plus the guy has some extra pipe that he said he would bend up for an intake pipe for free. While I am waiting for the head to get back I am hoping to come across a good deal on some ARP studs. After that i will not have much money left so I will leave it for all the odd little things that will pop up while installing the motor back in the car and while on the Dyno. I am also talking the the local guy at the driveshaft shop about an Aluminum one piece driveshaft. His daughters Corolla just died and I have a spare motor that will fit so my plan is to just trade him straight up motor for driveshaft. (Fingers crossed!!) With all that plus the MSD pieces I just recieve I am hoping to put down and honest 230 HP!! I is not a power monster but it will be efficient and get me back and forth to work. If all goes to plan the next round of upgrades will mostly concern the fuel system and maybe Nitrous!! That is a big maybe!!

 

[s383mmber1]

This is going to be a flat out BEAST.

Youve got my eye on this thread!

 

[fiyota]

I think you might be able to get a little more than 230hp out of it.. but dont ask me.

 

[TRACKMKIII]

Thanks for the feedback!! If I can get more than 230 rwhp then I will be very very happy because I think that is what a stock turbo puts down and it would make me very happy to run down a turbo and look at the guys face when he doesn't see a turbo badge on the back of my car!! :naughty: My one and only concern is if the stock fuel system will be able to keep up. I know I am not running boost but with the compression increase and the extra flow from the heads will it be able to do the job? Plus once I get on the dyno what adjustmenst do I have? I don't think the stock ecu settings will work. What are my options?

 

[BosoMKII]

Nothing really. Just your ignition timing. You do a few extra degrees of advance with the higest octaine gas you can get. Do it on a dyno though! Don't just advance and hope you made more power.
If you buy something like an SAFC, then you can fine tune your fuel curve. I seriously doubt you will max your stock fuel supply. If you are, then an adjustible FPR + SAFC will take care of that without breaking the bank.

 

[GotToyota?]

For fuel you should get 440cc injectors.

-Matt

 

[DEFIANT 7M]

For fuel you should get 440cc injectors.

-Matt

It won't like 440s without a SAFC. The power he is looking for is in the head. Compression would be great, watch the deck height shaving the block and head! You may run into a problem not being able to tighten the timing belt, and piston to valve clearance is already tight.

 

[GotToyota?]

It won't like 440s without a SAFC. The power he is looking for is in the head. Compression would be great, watch the deck height shaving the block and head! You may run into a problem not being able to tighten the timing belt, and piston to valve clearance is already tight.

Ah yes, I forgot to add that an SAFC would be necessary. BTW, have you dyno'd your car yet?

-Matt

 

[TRACKMKIII]

It won't like 440s without a SAFC. The power he is looking for is in the head. Compression would be great, watch the deck height shaving the block and head! You may run into a problem not being able to tighten the timing belt, and piston to valve clearance is already tight.

How much material can be removed from the block and head before I run into problems with tightening the timing belt and piston/valve clearance. I thought I would ask so I can let the machine shop know how much room they have to play with and I think I should let them know I am going to eun a thinner gasket right?

 

[BosoMKII]

For fuel you should get 440cc injectors.

-Matt

440s @ 70% duty cycle = roughly 350 BHP. Way overkill. 315cc injectors will be more on target. Isn't that the stock size for the 7M-GE?

 

[GotToyota?]

440s @ 70% duty cycle = roughly 350 BHP. Way overkill. 315cc injectors will be more on target. Isn't that the stock size for the 7M-GE?

330cc's are the stock injectors I believe.

-Matt

 

[DEFIANT 7M]

Ah yes, I forgot to add that an SAFC would be necessary. BTW, have you dyno'd your car yet?

-Matt

Me heck naw..........In my dreams 100 plus times:biglaugh: