My latest 2JZ swap cost (yours?)

[Satan]

So, been asked a few times and just responded to another... so, I thought I'd show mine. Of course it will vary for everyone... some things I already had on hand or even got for free (I will list the approximate cost anyways, for someone else to consider)...

2JZ, using auto tranny:
1. 1JZ motor mount brackets (have a set and borrowed another - free) ~$75
2. Custom driveshaft --- $420
3. 2JZ engine set ---- $2900
4. 12x24x4 Intercooler and misc pipes --- $350
5. 2JZ used US waterpump ($65), pulley ($20), & Fan ($65) -- $150
6. 2JZ TT powersteering line ($200...already had, but custom will cost $100) and throttle cable ($45) --- $150
7. Timing belt and misc belts/hoses --- $150
8. 7M oil pressure and water temp sender --- $25?

There may be more... just wanted to post it up and see if the other guys chime in with something I forgot. I had some things on hand and alot of things were cheaper. I went with an auto and custom driveshaft which added another $420 for the driveshaft and another $170 for an Apexi rev/speed meter (sent my 1JZ bellhousing to Cassio). Cost will vary by what you have and what extras you want... I'd say close to $5K, if you do the labor. It may cost you less, but you REALLY NEED to plan on $5K.

This is with you performing the labor and extending the harness yourself, etc.

Hope it helps some of you that are on the fence...

 

[T34418L3ONE]

how was the wiring? i have yet to find a guide, well i take that back, like a cliff notes guide to wiring. Also do you think it'd be cheaper if you had used an R154?

 

[Satan]

Using an R154 = $325 for the bellhousing and using a 5-speed driveshaft, so I woulda saved about $300 overall (subtracting the custom driveshaft and Apexi speed/rev meter), compared to using the auto which came with the TT clip. I have everything needed to use the 5-speed, but wanted an auto for my daily commute.

I did a simple/quick write up on the wiring. It's not that hard to extend it. Alot more info out there now, than just a few years ago, as far as making specific connections.

 

[NecroCyde]

well in the grand scheme of things, for people that want a more expensive clutch, i think the manual is ultimatly going to cost more, considering performance clutch kits. are aristo auto trannys as good as the mark 4 TT a340? youd think theyd have to be quite similar.

 

[DonS1mpson]

I believe that the Aristo was fitted with two transmissions, the MK1's don't feature the semi auto mode that the MK2 has, to be honest, I not entirly sure that feature is because of different transmissons

I remember hearing that TH400s are built up Aristo trans.

Any, $5000 seems pretty damn cheap to me, I remember reading that it would cost upwards of $10,000 when everything is said and done...

I really considering "selling out" and going 2J now

 

[Satan]

There are many variables to consider and if you plan to go that route, it's simple to just collect and buy stuff cheap along the way, that you know you will need.

I put approximate costs for somethings, but it can vary a great deal, depending on what you plan to do. There's a thread in SF where they swapped a TT into an N/A MKIV and it costs $13K... including a $1300 engine harness and replacing all the seals/hoses/rubber.... that's just crazy. Replace what you need to and enjoy it sooner. And for the MKIV, there's alot less customization needed....should be cheaper than $5K for sure.

Also, I got the whole clip, 'cause I didn't want to hunt/find parts. If you get an engine set (with igniter, ECU, uncut harness, etc), you can probably save $300-$400. However, they don't usually include the yoke for the driveshaft in the engine sets. Not an issue if going with the R154.

 

[T34418L3ONE]

so if your going with a r154 what is the benefit of getting a clip?

 

[Satan]

Probably not much.... Just gotta make sure that the engine set you get has all the electronics (MAP sensor, igniter, and all that).

Still, it doesn't save you much, whereas if you got the clip, you can sell off the extra stuff and have the extra connectors to make jumper harnesses to the MKIII body plugs.... AND, you should be guaranteed that everything you need is there and intact.

Basically, I see engine sets going for near $2300 plus another $300 shipping...that's $2600 compared to the $2900 for a clip delivered (we bought 2 at a time, which is why we didn't pay $3400 for each of 'em).

If you live near an importer, you may avoid shipping, but will likely pay near the same in taxes if you pick it up. You may get lucky and pick up the engine set for $1900 or so... not very often tho.

 

[Satan]

Probably not much.... Just gotta make sure that the engine set you get has all the electronics (MAP sensor, igniter, and all that).

Still, it doesn't save you much, whereas if you got the clip, you can sell off the extra stuff and have the extra connectors to make jumper harnesses to the MKIII body plugs.... AND, you should be guaranteed that everything you need is there and intact.

Basically, I see engine sets going for near $2300 plus another $300 shipping...that's $2600 compared to the $2900 for a clip delivered (we bought 2 at a time, which is why we didn't pay $3400 for each of 'em).

If you live near an importer, you may avoid shipping, but will likely pay near the same in taxes if you pick it up. You may get lucky and pick up the engine set for $1900 or so... not very often tho.

 

[T34418L3ONE]

thanks for the advice man, another question if you dont mind, will the 1jz downpipes bolt up to the 2j twins?

 

[soapra]

Well on top of all that stuff you are adding up, you forgot the oil pan is different. Making the Aristo harness longer is a pain in the ass, not to mention one connector of the ECU comes from the body harness on the aristo. Changing all the seals and hoses is the best think you could do. Do it right the first time! Use a good radiator (koyo) once you start adding all those little things you will find your self over 6K, and the way we do 2jz MK3's we use a US Harness 100% garantee to start and dont have codes or issues!

 

[Satan]

thanks for the advice man, another question if you dont mind, will the 1jz downpipes bolt up to the 2j twins?

I haven't tried yet, but I don't think so. There is a difference in the exhaust flange size between the US and JDM 2Js tho. I have a downpipe for a US TT, but it looks like I'll have to fab something up anyways (it ain't gonna work).

Can someone send me a 1J downpipe to try? Will be finishing up the exhasut this week, so now's the time to test fit it.

Do it right the first time! Use a good radiator (koyo) once you start adding all those little things you will find your self over 6K, and the way we do 2jz MK3's we use a US Harness 100% garantee to start and dont have codes or issues!

HARNESS:
Using a US TT harness does simplifies things but still adds $800-$1300 (depending on where you get it from). Still, properly lengthening the JDM harness will work. You can also pick up an extra Aristo harness for about $100 (complete harness). I was able to get an intact, labeled one for about $70 (which I was gonna cut up to splice into a hybrid 7M harness, but decided against all that).

SEALS:
I agree with the seals thing tho, but I dunno what that MKIV did to make the swap cost $13K. Cam seals, timing belt, main and rear seals still don't add up to much in the big scheme...replacing intake/exhaust gaskets and things like that would be a bit overboard for just a swap.

OILPAN:
Can use the US 2J N/A one (ppl almost give these away) and just tap the hole for the oil return, or get a new US TT one for near $300. I used the one from my other 2J, which came from a JDM MKIV.

RADIATOR:
If you go with the US pump and fan, you will not be able to use an aftermarket/racing radiator. Not enuff clearance. If you go with electric/Hydro fans and are not going to need/use the auto-tranny cooler, then you can use a Koyo, Fluidyne, etc.

 

[csnow]

I just picked up a 2J PS high pressure line for my 1J swap for $49.99 from AutoZone. No need to pay $200.

 

[Satan]

I just picked up a 2J PS high pressure line for my 1J swap for $49.99 from AutoZone. No need to pay $200.

WOW! Are you sure that's not fo rthe N/A? I dunno if there's a difference between the 2, but I paid over $200 for mine (from Toyota) a few years back, tho my brother in FL could get us a generic hook-up from a parts supplier for about $90. Never seen 'em that low... that's even cheaper than a custom made one. Good job!

BTW:
Wanted to add my disclaimer... everyone's swaps and peeves are different and there will be many difference of opinions on what you need, where to get it, and why. My costs/methods are just a starting point for those who are considering it. You really just need to decide on your wants, needs, and available resources. If you cheap out on some things, they can cost you more later (indirectly). Use your discretion and know what to expect if you cut corners. I've actually used the risk/impact method for considering my options (Project Mgmt Risk Analysis).

 

[csnow]

I will post a pic when I get off work. They had to order it so it took a couple of days, but it was for a 95 TT.

 

[tissimo]

i've seen it it looks like itll work.. well see soon

was cheaper then my custom one, i payed 50-60 for mine.. i'll use it on my next swap

 

[rakkasan]

Autozone Power Steering Hose

 

[turbodriz]

Power speaking. From what I have so far , I feel safe saying that if I put the same setup on both motors, they would pretty much make the same power so I ask why 2j instead of 1j? Yeah you seen big power 2js but that's all people are really building.The rb26 is a 2.6 liter and they make well over 1000hp built.

 

[Stretch]

Maybe it's because the 2jz is the bigest boy? The rb26dett is the biggest boy in the nissan i6 lineup sensibly Ithink, so would it not make sense that it gets the most praise and put on a pedistol? Ifeel the 2jz is the big boy for the toyota i6, although there is that massive i6 from the landcruiser or w/e vbut it weights a ton so who cares. 2jz is on a pedistol, and why not? It proves itself to be the best. Just the evolution of the 1jz is all.
eric

 

[Satan]

^^ Well... my thought is that the 2J is kinda the latest in swaps (available engines) and in another 5+ years, we'll be swapping in even newer engines. The 2J's got alot more goodies readily available (as far as bolt on).

For me the 1J was an interim step. The MKII guys will be swapping in 1Js and 2Js in the future, as they become more readily available, instead of mostly 7Ms.

Hell... maybe in another 10 years we'll be putting hybrids in these badboys ;-)

Not all of us are going for HP...I like the notoriety/individualism and the fact that I ain't playing with 20+ year-old technology. I don't care how built the 7M gets... the wiring and electronics are still usually ALOT older than the built parts. I've chased way too many gremlins over the past 8 years...

I plan to stay under 400HP in my daily driver (regardless of potential)...