My Battery Relocation

F_T_F

C2H5OH
Nov 12, 2006
255
0
0
fort fun, colorado
im getting ready to relocate my battery in the trunk in the far passengers side corner, seems to be the place to put it anyway i was reading this thread and ive got some questions.
http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=18946&highlight=battery+relocation

1) will i need to run the alternator and starter wire separate?
2)what gauge wire will do to make sure i get adequate power and to make sure the wire wont over heat.
3) how am i going to go about wiring up the alternator, am i going to splice it in to the existing wire or should i just make a new connection. same thing for the starter.
4) any information on where a good ground point is in the trunk
5) any other information that might aid me

thanks for any enlighten im probably making this a bigger deal then it really is but i want it done rite the first time.
 
Last edited:

bgrieger

New Member
Mar 30, 2005
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1) you can, or you can use a distribution block under the hood to split the circuit so you only need one large cable for positive from back to front.
2) I use 1 gauge as it's easy to find (any industrial supply shop at least has welding cable, plus stereo shops) and more than sufficient for any amp draw this car can generate. Some swear by 0 but it's pricey and not available everywhere (most higher end car audio shops, but few others) and others say 2 is enough and never caused them problems. I'm sure some have even used 4, but I think they're asking for trouble...
3) just make new connections. They are just ring terminals. Take your old ones in and find some the right sizes. Crimp them or solder or both (my preference) and away you go.
4) Any CLEAN spot will do. Remove all paint, I do it on both sides, but the gas tank may be in your way. Avoid rusty areas if you can, use a large bolt and washers to create a lot of surface area for the current to run and once it's all bolted down, use something to prevent corrosion inside and out (paint, grease, undercoating, liquid electric tape). Some like running the ground to the engine bay, and while it will provide a cleaner ground and guaranteed no issues, I've rarely seen a grounds issue if you take the time to prep the spot in the hatch.
 

MK3Brent

Very expensive....
Aug 1, 2005
2,878
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Greensboro and Greenville NC
Everything I needed for my battery relocation, I used with this kit.
http://store.summitracing.com/partd...AY-48103&N=700+400235+307186+115&autoview=sku

Maybe a new ground cable from the block, but this was it.

p581622_1.jpg


p581622_2.jpg


p581622_3.jpg
 

Facime

Leather work expert
Jun 1, 2006
2,716
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Corvallis OR
Well said BG. I would only add that no matter even if you are running a sealed cell like an Optima you should put it in a box vented ONLY to the outside of the cabin, and that box needs to be FIRMLY secured. Bolts through the floor is NOT good enough. Either run a strap all the way around the box and through the floor, or use a plate on the underside of the floor that your box is secured to. Last note, if you want to be legal for some form of motorsports you may want to check their regulations regarding batteries inside the cabin.
 

F_T_F

C2H5OH
Nov 12, 2006
255
0
0
fort fun, colorado
theWeezL said:
Well said BG. I would only add that no matter even if you are running a sealed cell like an Optima you should put it in a box vented ONLY to the outside of the cabin, and that box needs to be FIRMLY secured. Bolts through the floor is NOT good enough. Either run a strap all the way around the box and through the floor, or use a plate on the underside of the floor that your box is secured to. Last note, if you want to be legal for some form of motorsports you may want to check their regulations regarding batteries inside the cabin.
ok so i got another question. after reading this new information im planning on running a strap through the floor to secure the barrtery. should i drop the gas tank to do this or is is possiable to leave it in.
 

bgrieger

New Member
Mar 30, 2005
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Strap through the floor, or the better option, as theWeezL suggested, are anchor plates. These can be substituted with large washers, perhaps 3-4 inches around and 1/8 or more thick, and usually come with the kit. You will either need to be creative or have really small hands to put them in properly with the tank installed. Most of the time, you can do it only lowering the tank 4-6 inches to get a wrench in there.
 

F_T_F

C2H5OH
Nov 12, 2006
255
0
0
fort fun, colorado
bgrieger said:
Strap through the floor, or the better option, as theWeezL suggested, are anchor plates. These can be substituted with large washers, perhaps 3-4 inches around and 1/8 or more thick, and usually come with the kit. You will either need to be creative or have really small hands to put them in properly with the tank installed. Most of the time, you can do it only lowering the tank 4-6 inches to get a wrench in there.
im not buying a kit im piecing it together from a variety of different shops here. im a little curous how to anchor it using a plate like you suggested.
 

bgrieger

New Member
Mar 30, 2005
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You can weld them to the body like harnesses belt plates are, or use large (3-4 inch or so) washers on the outside of the body to keep the bolts from pulling through. Either is effective, though if you need to meet a specific race series standary, they will let you know what you can and cannot do. Any of the major name bolt down battery boxes have these washers in them as well.
 

Facime

Leather work expert
Jun 1, 2006
2,716
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Corvallis OR
I suggest pulling the tank to do a proper job. Its really not that hard (helps if you are starting with an almost empty tank to begin with). The hardest part for me the first time was getting the main feed line fitting to come apart. flare nut wrenches FTW!. Now that Ive had my tank out a couple of times I can do it in about 15-20 minutes.

Once you have the tank out you can "properly" secure a battery box. Washers are ok if you never want to take it to a track. I highly recommend you use 12ga or better plates that go side to side on your box and then angle iron on top to secure the box down. Any reasonable fab shop should be able to cut some for you for next to nothing.

In the event of an accident do you really want a lead brick flying around in your cabin spraying sulfuric acid everywhere? I thought not. Better to error on the side of cautious in this case.
 

F_T_F

C2H5OH
Nov 12, 2006
255
0
0
fort fun, colorado
theWeezL said:
In the event of an accident do you really want a lead brick flying around in your cabin spraying sulfuric acid everywhere? I thought not. Better to error on the side of cautious in this case.
yea thats what im trying to avoid like i said i want this done the rite way the first time.
 

F_T_F

C2H5OH
Nov 12, 2006
255
0
0
fort fun, colorado
QWIKSTRIKE said:
I used the trunk latch as a ground, and also drilled a hole along side the case that Brent has in his picture, and installed o ring protector gommets. This way you dont have to drop the tank.
yea but in order to mount the battery case correctly im going to have to drop the tank. i've finished wireing it up and it doesn't seem that hard to do drop the tank i mean