I have heard and seen many ways of doing a NA-T setup, This is the way I did it and you definitely need to have automotive experience and resources to do it properly, If it is not done right you can blow your motor very easily. First off as mentioned in the other NA-T thread if your motor is not a well known good taken care of motor don't expect it to last long, plan on rebuilding it.
The engine I started with was a original 88 7MGE with 140,000 miles on it. The head gasket was replaced at 132,000 miles with a felpro, head resurfaced and rebuilt and ARP Head bolts torqued to 90 ft lbs with a re-torque procedure done. I was the 3rd owner on the car and the previous owners were a air force pilot and the other a older man.. They both kept track of all the service records and wrote down the increments the oil was changed and air filter etc. This is what I would call a well taken care of engine.. Oil pressure is at 40PSI+ under normal driving conditions and never been beat on.
I first started off gathering my parts, There are many different ways of doing it depending on HP level which I wouldn't go any more than 350-400 on a stock bottom end due to slightly higher compression, you really have to watch detonation.. I chose to go with a stock turbo setup and a aftermarket intercooler to keep the intake temps down as much as possible to help prevent any detonation that might occur.
I gathered this list of parts:
Same year (--) turbo automatic wiring harness (My car is automatic 88, yours might be 5 speed)
Same year (--) turbo automatic Engine ECU (My car is a automatic 88 so yellow plug)
7MGTE 440CC Injectors (Replace all O rings and insulators) (Good up to 400HP)
7MGTE Turbo Intake manifold,Throttle body, linkage and TPS (Lower plenum is the same)
7MGTE Turbo Exhaust Manifold (I went stock turbo setup)
Stock CT26 Turbo (Mine had no shaft play and was in good condition)
Intercooler and piping (I went with the Driftmotion kit)
7MGTE Cam Position sensor
7MGTE Igniter
7MGTE Coil Packs and plug wires
New spark plugs (gap to .30)
Engine gasket set
Oil drain bung and line, Oil feed line (I would highly recommend the drift motion NA-T kit, What I used)
7MGTE Thermostat housing
7MGTE Turbo Water coolant lines and banjo fitting
7MGTE Turbo Valve covers
Turbo down pipe (I used stock 90 elbow and down pipe but cut cat out and used a piece of straight pipe welded in) I also have 1 high flow cat to 2.5 inch exhaust
7MGTE AFM (I also got a cone air filter and adaptor plate for mine)
7MGTE Accordion hose (I would recommend the silicone one from drift motion (I still need to order it)
7MGTE power steering reservoir and bracket
7MGTE Tachometer (N/A wont work with turbo ecu and coil packs)
7MGTE Vacuum manifold (under intake manifold)
7MGTE throttle linkage and mechanism
Boost gauge
AFR gauge (Dyno tuning we were able to log the AFR)
Apexi SAFC or Air Fuel correction device
After getting all my parts I pulled the engine out of the car and pulled the oil pan off to have the Oil Drain bung welded in.. I found that the stock location for the oil cooler return has a threaded bolt into it to plug it off, I just drilled about 2mm out of it and it was the perfect diameter and placement for the -10 AN Steel weld in bung.
Here is the engine pulled:
Here is the bung my brother tig welded into the oil pan:
Here is the fitment( I had to tweak the auto transmission cooler lines a little (5 spd wont have this problem:
Here is the turbo mounted and the oil drain and feed lines hooked up The Drift motion NA-T oil line kit comes with a T so you can get oil feed from the oil pressure sending unit and still use the OPSU:
This is the engine being put back in the car:
In the mean time I mounted my boost gauge, SAFC Neo, and Replaced the tachometer in my gauge cluster with a turbo one out of the same year:
Here I put the upper intake manifold on, Turbo on, injectors and fuel rail, connected fuel lines and put wiring harness in (Make sure to install the harness in before you put the throttle body on)
Finished off mounting everything and hooking up water/oil lines:
Here is the intercooler mounting:
And last but not least here is the picture of the car on the dyno:
Finished engine bay and DVOM hooked up to watch V/F:
Here is the two dyno videos and a in car pull.. This is at 9 lbs boost
Dyno pull outside: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wDoBR07ZtlQ
Dyno pull inside: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Pu6qrpXdSqA&NR=1
0-75MPH pull spinning 1st and 2nd gear: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hYSYtf_uAt4
Anyways hope you enjoyed looking and watching the videos, Thanks for stopping in and checking out the progress!
Thanks
The engine I started with was a original 88 7MGE with 140,000 miles on it. The head gasket was replaced at 132,000 miles with a felpro, head resurfaced and rebuilt and ARP Head bolts torqued to 90 ft lbs with a re-torque procedure done. I was the 3rd owner on the car and the previous owners were a air force pilot and the other a older man.. They both kept track of all the service records and wrote down the increments the oil was changed and air filter etc. This is what I would call a well taken care of engine.. Oil pressure is at 40PSI+ under normal driving conditions and never been beat on.
I first started off gathering my parts, There are many different ways of doing it depending on HP level which I wouldn't go any more than 350-400 on a stock bottom end due to slightly higher compression, you really have to watch detonation.. I chose to go with a stock turbo setup and a aftermarket intercooler to keep the intake temps down as much as possible to help prevent any detonation that might occur.
I gathered this list of parts:
Same year (--) turbo automatic wiring harness (My car is automatic 88, yours might be 5 speed)
Same year (--) turbo automatic Engine ECU (My car is a automatic 88 so yellow plug)
7MGTE 440CC Injectors (Replace all O rings and insulators) (Good up to 400HP)
7MGTE Turbo Intake manifold,Throttle body, linkage and TPS (Lower plenum is the same)
7MGTE Turbo Exhaust Manifold (I went stock turbo setup)
Stock CT26 Turbo (Mine had no shaft play and was in good condition)
Intercooler and piping (I went with the Driftmotion kit)
7MGTE Cam Position sensor
7MGTE Igniter
7MGTE Coil Packs and plug wires
New spark plugs (gap to .30)
Engine gasket set
Oil drain bung and line, Oil feed line (I would highly recommend the drift motion NA-T kit, What I used)
7MGTE Thermostat housing
7MGTE Turbo Water coolant lines and banjo fitting
7MGTE Turbo Valve covers
Turbo down pipe (I used stock 90 elbow and down pipe but cut cat out and used a piece of straight pipe welded in) I also have 1 high flow cat to 2.5 inch exhaust
7MGTE AFM (I also got a cone air filter and adaptor plate for mine)
7MGTE Accordion hose (I would recommend the silicone one from drift motion (I still need to order it)
7MGTE power steering reservoir and bracket
7MGTE Tachometer (N/A wont work with turbo ecu and coil packs)
7MGTE Vacuum manifold (under intake manifold)
7MGTE throttle linkage and mechanism
Boost gauge
AFR gauge (Dyno tuning we were able to log the AFR)
Apexi SAFC or Air Fuel correction device
After getting all my parts I pulled the engine out of the car and pulled the oil pan off to have the Oil Drain bung welded in.. I found that the stock location for the oil cooler return has a threaded bolt into it to plug it off, I just drilled about 2mm out of it and it was the perfect diameter and placement for the -10 AN Steel weld in bung.
Here is the engine pulled:
Here is the bung my brother tig welded into the oil pan:
Here is the fitment( I had to tweak the auto transmission cooler lines a little (5 spd wont have this problem:
Here is the turbo mounted and the oil drain and feed lines hooked up The Drift motion NA-T oil line kit comes with a T so you can get oil feed from the oil pressure sending unit and still use the OPSU:
This is the engine being put back in the car:
In the mean time I mounted my boost gauge, SAFC Neo, and Replaced the tachometer in my gauge cluster with a turbo one out of the same year:
Here I put the upper intake manifold on, Turbo on, injectors and fuel rail, connected fuel lines and put wiring harness in (Make sure to install the harness in before you put the throttle body on)
Finished off mounting everything and hooking up water/oil lines:
Here is the intercooler mounting:
And last but not least here is the picture of the car on the dyno:
Finished engine bay and DVOM hooked up to watch V/F:
Here is the two dyno videos and a in car pull.. This is at 9 lbs boost
Dyno pull outside: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wDoBR07ZtlQ
Dyno pull inside: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Pu6qrpXdSqA&NR=1
0-75MPH pull spinning 1st and 2nd gear: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hYSYtf_uAt4
Anyways hope you enjoyed looking and watching the videos, Thanks for stopping in and checking out the progress!
Thanks
Last edited:
